What oil and Filter combo in the new Ecoboost

[edizzle]

Mobil1 M212A
Redline Synthetic

That is all I have ever run in any of my ecoboosts

Amsoil Signature Series 5w30 6qts=$75
Mobil1 m212a=$18

 

[mquick5]

Amsoil Signature Series 5w30 6qts=$75
Mobil1 m212a=$18

Wow! I put the Amsoil in my built quad @12.99 a quart but never considered using it a daily driver. I'm glad the quad only takes 2 qts. I thought the RP for the mustang was priced high @ around $8 per qt.

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[JExpedition07]

I’ve always used Motorcraft Synthetic Blend and a Motorcraft FL-820S filter for my 5.4 Triton and change every 3,000 miles. Works well for me and engine seems to stay clean.

I think the MC filter for the ecoboost is FL-500S.

I’m not a extended oil change interval fan, whether synthetic or conventional the oil gets blow by and gets dirty. The filter clogs and goes into bypass long before these crazy intervals come up. Those on YouTube doing their 15-20k mile intervals aren’t doing their engine any favors.....you’ll be much better off using a decent brand oil and changing more often.

 

[edizzle]

Every 5k. Got the expy in February 2018, just ticked 30,000!!! WTH!?!?

 

[lbv150]

I run Motorcraft synth blend and Motorcraft filter every 3K. Walmart has the best price.

 

[EricExpedition]

Have used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic oil and Fram Ultra Synthetic filter for 100,000+ miles in my 2013 F150 EcoBoost. Changed every 5,000 miles or close to it. Dealer has done the last three oil changes (while in for recalls...) in my 2018 Expedition with synthetic blend, but planning to switch to the full synthetic combo and doing it myself at the 20,000 mile mark.

https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/full-synthetic-motor-oils/pennzoil-ultra-platinum.html
https://www.fram.com/products/consumer-products/oil-filters/fram-ultra-synthetic-oil-filter/

Usually pick them up at Wal-Mart as well.

 

[guspech750]

I know it gets done right! .

This right here. This is all that matters to me. That's why I do all my home and cars repairs. I trust no one to do their job correctly as I've had to repair what I have payed some POS to do.

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[Paddler]

It’s just not worth the hassle. They document it, they dispose the oil, and I get other warranty work done if needed. It’s $70 and I get full synth oil and upgraded filter. I also have peace of mind that there should never be an issue for them not to honor warranty work. Ive heard to many stories horror stories of dealerships hunting for excuses in order to not honor the warranty should something major come up. It’s ok if you think I’m crazy but $70 every 5000 miles is not that bad, plus I have good rapport with my service writer.

I called around before my first oil change to see who charged what. I figure I can do it myself for between $20-$25. My Jiffy Lube around the corner wanted $73 for synthetic blend, ~$95 for full synthetic. On a lark I called my dealer, $96 including tax for a package of three oil changes with tire rotations, inspections, etc. For $32 they can do it while I read a book.

 

[txracer16]

I called around before my first oil change to see who charged what. I figure I can do it myself for between $20-$25. My Jiffy Lube around the corner wanted $73 for synthetic blend, ~$95 for full synthetic. On a lark I called my dealer, $96 including tax for a package of three oil changes with tire rotations, inspections, etc. For $32 they can do it while I read a book.

Exactly! A lot of times for maintenance the dealer will have the best price, should have techs that know the vehicle, and can perform warranty repairs if a problem is found. I see it all the time where people pay more for repair or service at an independent or aftermarket shop because said shop doesn’t have the knowledge, familiarity, or tools for the vehicle. I recommend people all the time to go the the dealer over other shops. Are there bad apples out there, of course, there are in every bunch. Are there good techs not at dealers, yep. Truth is as far as maintenance techs, a lot of times the ones at the lube places usually can’t get jobs at a dealer. This is all from personal knowledge and experience in the field for over 25yrs. The other thing is if something does go wrong at a dealer, the customer has a lot of power, and there is a lot more backing at the dealer to take care of an issue. If I wasn’t a tech myself and have the tools and a lift to do it, I’d be at a dealer getting it done.

As far as oil and filter, personal preference. As long as it meets manufacturers requirements. I personally use Mobil-1 5w30 and Motorcraft 500s filter on my 3.5 EB. Wix, NAPA, Puralator, and Mobil-1 filters good also. Personally I stay away from Fram due to failures and construction. Only reason I run full synthetic is because it’s turbo and cheap at WalMart. Everything else I have gets conventional, even 700+hp methanol race engine.

Just my .02 cents.......

 

[JasonH]

The forums at www.bobistheoilguy.com are a good resource for info on motor oils. Castrol Magnetec has been suggested as suitable for use with the Ecoboost. Without getting too deep into the technical details, direct injection engines suffer from excessive fuel dilution (confirmed in multiple UOAs), so many posters suggest using a heavier 30 to accommodate a decrease in viscosity over time.