What oil/filter do you use?

[Pappy]

Kinda what I figured. My '02 owners manual says

"Only use oils “Certified For Gasoline Engines” by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Use Motorcraft or an equivalent oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153–H." and "WSS-M2C153-H with API Certification
Mark".

I expect that if T6 5W-40 were held only to the 2002 API requirements it would far exceed them. But since these requirements are now 15 years old, they have been refined and tightened. My wife drove this vehicle for most of its life and she used the cheapest oil and filter the quick-change oil place would install. I'm going to go with T6 5W-40 at the next change, assuming it stays readily available and the cost doesn't increase significantly.

I'm also strongly thinking about an Amsoil (or equivalent) dual bypass filter. I'd like to be able to fill the filter before installation, and that can't happen with the stock arrangement, so if I'm going to a remote mount, why not get the benefit of 2 micron filtration? Is there any system comparable to the Amsoil that is of equal or better quality, and less costly?

 

[USMCBuckWild]

Kinda what I figured. My '02 owners manual says

"Only use oils “Certified For Gasoline Engines” by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Use Motorcraft or an equivalent oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153–H." and "WSS-M2C153-H with API Certification
Mark".

I expect that if T6 5W-40 were held only to the 2002 API requirements it would far exceed them. But since these requirements are now 15 years old, they have been refined and tightened. My wife drove this vehicle for most of its life and she used the cheapest oil and filter the quick-change oil place would install. I'm going to go with T6 5W-40 at the next change, assuming it stays readily available and the cost doesn't increase significantly.

I'm also strongly thinking about an Amsoil (or equivalent) dual bypass filter. I'd like to be able to fill the filter before installation, and that can't happen with the stock arrangement, so if I'm going to a remote mount, why not get the benefit of 2 micron filtration? Is there any system comparable to the Amsoil that is of equal or better quality, and less costly?

To my knowledge there are several sub-2 micron filtration systems on the market, but they are designed for other applications.

Could you mod it to make it work? Sure.
Will it be inside the oil pressure requirement of the engine? Don't know.
Don't forget: these engines require a pretty narrow oil pressure range (in RPM spectrum) to run multiple key systems inside the engine. Straying from that range can and almost certainly will result in catastrophic failure.

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

John, their not morons, just being overly cautious. We were so used to changing oil at 3k, that we still feel we have to. Back in the day when all we had was petroleum oil, you had to drop oil at no longer than 3,500. Reason was oil started to break down, and was losing its ability to protect. Full synthetics will go out to 15k, but you still have dirty oil pumping through your motor. I changed my oil/filter last weekend with a tick above 6k. I run Mobil 1 5w30, with a premium fram filter. I know I could go way further, but I do a lot of low mileage stop and go driving. The reason I run fram is my 4x4 is a pain to get filter off, the fram has the rough grippy stuff at the end. 3 years, and 26,000 miles, no issues.


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That's the thing. If you look at any one of the hundreds of oil analyses posted on BITOG, most of which are for conventional oil, they are not losing their ability to protect anywhere near 3K. 5-6K is being cautious. 3K is just being an idiot since there is absolutely no scientific evidence to even suggest that it is beneficial in any way (assuming we are talking about a healthy engine).

 

[08T1]

Bang on buckwild.

 

[USMCBuckWild]

That's the thing. If you look at any one of the hundreds of oil analyses posted on BITOG, most of which are for conventional oil, they are not losing their ability to protect anywhere near 3K. 5-6K is being cautious. 3K is just being an idiot since there is absolutely no scientific evidence to even suggest that it is beneficial in any way (assuming we are talking about a healthy engine).

In the post you quoted, 1955moose clearly stated "Back in the day when all we had was petroleum oil". He was refering to a time well before the oil refinement technology, additives and conditioners added to oil today. I would assume he is talking about the 1950s-1990. Go to API website and look at the changes in oil specs over the years; they show the specs from 1920-Present and explain what is reverse compatible.

Its not fair to compare todays oils (and specs) to the oils available just 15 years ago let alone 40-50 years ago. Yes, BITOG has thousands of UOA available to review. But how many are from 1951-1988 when only conventional 'dino' oil was commercially available and the engine oil had to be changed every 3k?

http://www.api.org/products-and-ser...ies-and-documents/oil-categories#tab_gasoline

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

In the post you quoted, 1955moose clearly stated "Back in the day when all we had was petroleum oil". He was refering to a time well before the oil refinement technology, additives and conditioners added to oil today. I would assume he is talking about the 1950s-1990. Go to API website and look at the changes in oil specs over the years; they show the specs from 1920-Present and explain what is reverse compatible.

Its not fair to compare todays oils (and specs) to the oils available just 15 years ago let alone 40-50 years ago. Yes, BITOG has thousands of UOA available to review. But how many are from 1951-1988 when only conventional 'dino' oil was commercially available and the engine oil had to be changed every 3k?

http://www.api.org/products-and-ser...ies-and-documents/oil-categories#tab_gasoline

"Back in the day when all we had was petroleum oil, you had to drop oil at no longer than 3,500. Reason was oil started to break down, and was losing its ability to protect. Full synthetics will go out to 15k, but you still have dirty oil pumping through your motor. I changed my oil/filter last weekend with a tick above 6k. I run Mobil 1 5w30, with a premium fram filter."

The context of his post implies that he was referring to longer intervals only being viable due to synthetics, especially since he noted that he uses a synthetic and changed it at 6K miles.

 

[USMCBuckWild]

"Back in the day when all we had was petroleum oil, you had to drop oil at no longer than 3,500. Reason was oil started to break down, and was losing its ability to protect. Full synthetics will go out to 15k, but you still have dirty oil pumping through your motor. I changed my oil/filter last weekend with a tick above 6k. I run Mobil 1 5w30, with a premium fram filter."

The context of his post implies that he was referring to longer intervals only being viable due to synthetics, especially since he noted that he uses a synthetic and changed it at 6K miles.

You are correct. He began with "way back when" and then moved on to modern day synthetics. There wasn't a transition leading to the new synthetics train of thought, which is why it was confusing.

Not poking at you, just clarifying the point.

 

[1955moose]

Wow, you guys really know your oils! It's amazing the difference the new oils are making, its a shame manufacturers try new items like variable valve timing, and other items that cause so much grief. Buck wild knows his stuff on oils. I know I could go way further on my oil changes, but as this is my only vehicle, I need to keep it going. Besides it gives me something to do. Good classroom though on the diesel oils, I enjoyed reading it. Moose.

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[USMCBuckWild]

Wow, you guys really know your oils! It's amazing the difference the new oils are making, its a shame manufacturers try new items like variable valve timing, and other items that cause so much grief. Buck wild knows his stuff on oils. I know I could go way further on my oil changes, but as this is my only vehicle, I need to keep it going. Besides it gives me something to do. Good classroom though on the diesel oils, I enjoyed reading it. Moose.

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Thanks for the compliment. I don't "know" my oils, I just know what I have been taught and how to interpret the data provided (.mil spent a lot of money sending me to 5 petroleum schools/courses and allowing me to earn certifications as an API certified petroleum laboratory technician). I'm no expert, the information just makes sense to me. Haha There are others here who know much, much more than me.

It gives me a sense of purpose to utilize my training to help educate others on whats really out there with oils and petroleum products instead of people relying on marketing and info-mercials. I am a very frugal person amd want to ensure my investments (vehicles) last as long as possible, others are in the same situation.

 

[1955moose]

Back in the 70's when I went to Automotive training, we never spent 1 minute on oils. We were learning engines, transmissions, electrical diagnosis. Truth be told it was a 1 year course, all of us used either castrol, Pennzoil, or Valvoline. Amsoil was just coming on the market. We pretty much all used Dino oil, me 20/50 weight, because that's what all the gearheads recommended. Would have been nice to try the synthetics. Motorcycle engines rarely went more than 30k back then, these days most bikes go over 100k, unless you totally trash them. Thanks again good info for our members. Moose.

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[juan214]

motorcraft oil and filter guy

 

[joethefordguy]

anybody who spends any more money on oil crapola than they have to is an idiot!!
I'm running leftover vegetable oil through a roll of TP in a jelly jar.
so far, so good.

 

[Willshooter3]

Had been running Motorcraft oil and filters.
Couldn't get what I needed anywhere locally, needed to change my oil, used Quaker State Semi-Synthetic hi-mileage and a Fram Ph2 filter.
That was a lot cheaper, I am interested to see what it looks like in 6,000 miles.

 

[scoot0073]

Valvoline Max Life High Millage oil and Motorcraft filter.

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[steelnewfie]

Once I switched from a 5W-20 to a 0W-30 the 5.4 finally sounded like it should. I personally think the resulting touch increase in oil pressure is enough to help out the starvation issues in the top end. And this oil is 'thin' enough to perform well in any climate, year-round. Shell's current highest tech commercial oil is Helix Ultra ECT C2/C3. Also known as Quaker State UD 0W-30. Also known as Pennzoil Platinum Plus Euro LX 0W-30 and also known as Motomaster OEM Plus Euro LX 0W-30. In simple terms, this oil is built from the best stock, has excellent viscosity in cold and hot (ambient and engine), and unsurpassed durability (if required). Yes it is marketed as a low ash oil for diesel and GDI/turbo engines but the different additive pack is I think, higher quality and more expensive to meet the specifications. Bottom line I learned look for Porsche A40 or C30 rating. Very stringent yet maintains minimum shear (resistance to wear under load) ratings. For those of use that like wringing out the modulars. I have a 4.6 Mustang tuned w bolt-ons I race and is pretty much screaming the entire time it is going. It's getting the 0W-30 next change as well. The oil is that good on paper and analysis show it's great stuff. Look for the blended in Germany or Canada stuff. Helix Ultra also available in 5W-30 and 0W-40 and maybe 5W-40. All great options. But the 0W-30 is the best technology offers currently, from my research; and makes the motor sound healthy, is best way to describe it. And don't get me started on rattles and misfires and ticks from loose plugs. Been through it all. Now I'm at 298K KM, just got a 5-Star tune and the truck runs best it's ever, ever, ran. Can't wait to see how dirty the oil is, going to have a glance at 5K (KM) but planning on 10K KM OCI - oil change intervals.

Filters. A recent corona-education session on bob is the oil guy forum. I've always used Motocraft 820S but looking at many cut-outs I can see the advantage to moving to a premium filter with mesh supporting the paper filter material. 820S does not have that. Nor the Motocraft 500. Nor the Ford Racing 820. So I might try the Fram Ultra next. I have heard from multiple places the Hastings filters historically worked well on 5.4's. I'd feel comfortable with a Wix XP as well. I run the same filter on Mustang as I do on the truck but might switch to a racing filter because of extremely unique usage. Do not use racing filters on street cars, to make a long story short.

I do wish I had a real oil pressure guage. My two cents.

 

[Logan97]

I use the K&N filter because I get discounts on them, and if your oil filter is stuck and you can get a hand in there, I use a fishing glove I bought that has rubber on the fingers and palm, gives you plenty of grip.

 

[CertusExpo]

Decided to revive this old string as its been 2.5 years since the last update.

NEVER heard the results of the T6 test from USMCBuckWild on Page 11.

Is it still true ExplorerTom that the Walmart oil "scored VERY well"?

I'm wondering if any opinions have changed as the prices of everything has almost or doubled in some cases.

I'm also wondering if anyone has migrated to a reusable canister style filter such as THIS one.

Also, I have seen, for example. When performing a standard Google Search for a Motorcraft filter, I see FL-820-S, FL-820-SW, AND long-bodied FL-2124SW, & FL-500S. What is the difference between the S and SW?
WILL these all fit a 5.4 and if so, have any of you used the long body filter so that there is more filter media area?

I'm asking these questions because my Expy has been mostly sitting for going on 2 years+ and I intend on getting her back on the road again.
I plan on starting a clean Post with ALL the details of what I find as I start this process and one of the primary things I will be doing is changing out engine, transmission, brake, and differential fluids.

BTW, THANK YOU to all of you for a VERY informative string of information. I am thinking of going with the T6 as we're entering the Texas summer, and I want the detergents in it. I'm just not sure if to go with 5W-30 or 5W-40. Although, I might run the SuperTech oil for a couple of 500 mile "clearing the pipes" runs.

Please, any/all opinions are welcome!