What tuner would you recommend for improved fuel economy - 2013 Expedition

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Timo2824

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Got my 2007 EL for it's ability to haul a lot of stuff, and with the automatic 4x4. Also because I got a really good deal on it because it was a bare bones model that a dealer who specializes in trucks with all the trimmings bought. They figured it'd be a quick flip for some good profit but it sat on their lot for over three months. Turned out that their reputation for dealing in the $$$$$$$$$ trucks didn't have any bargain hunters trolling their lot. So they let it go cheap. Fine with me! No sunroof, no power running boards to fail, none of that other unnecessary electronic stuff to fail. Best MPG it gets is 17.

Would be nice if Ford had the full time real AWD available on the Expedition like it was with the V8 Mountaineer and Explorer. The auto 4x4 on the Expedition is literally clunky compared to that. Lose traction in the back and it clunks and lurches a little when the front drive is engaged. The AWD system is completely "invisible" due to its center differential and the smooth engagement of the viscous coupling, and nothing electronic about it.

If I had the money to burn I'd try getting a 2WD 3rd gen, swap the front drive from a 4x4 into it, then make the Mountaineer transfer case fit to give it that smooth AWD.
I have a 07 V8 explorer and a 17 expedition. The explorer full time auto 4x4 is smooth, but I think it's too invasive. My front tires wear funny, rotate every 5,000 miles, almost like the full time front wheel drive SUV's. Plus you can't slide it around on dirt roads like the expedition. I also have had to pull the abs fuse while in snow on the side of a mountain because the traction control never fully shuts off. It applies the brakes on the faster turning wheels and you'll burn up your transmission if you don't shutdown the module. I like that the expedition gives the driver more control, it's probably not as safe but it's way more fun!
 

Nakita23

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My 2 cents. I have an '11 XLT 2wd 150k that's mainly a kid hauler & has seen quite a few road trips. I was seeing 15mpg pretty regular. I did all the "not sure what the preious owner did" maintance when I bought it at 90k. At 130k I changed the spark plugs. No change in my driving style but now get 17.5mpg. I'd start there if it hasn't been done yet
 
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Brons2

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Here are many real world results: https://www.fuelly.com/car/ford/expedition

There's no way it's going to get anywhere close to 20mpg on the highway unless you're going 45mph.
45 is a bit of an exaggeration, you can get over 20 doing 55-60 on relative flat ground. I have done it with my stock tune.

But at what passes for normal highway speeds in my neck of the woods, i.e., 75-80, I get around 17-17.5 tops.
 

Frank Swygert

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I looked into tuners also, but mainly for towing. All I found are "learning" types, which take 2-3 days to learn your driving habits and adjust tune. That might help you that 1-2 mpg, but not me. I tow my camper 3-4 times a year, use the Expy for occasionally running errands where I need the load capacity once or twice a month between camping trips. So I tow for 2-4 hours, set up and drive around 2-4 days, then tow back. So a learning tuner does nothing for me.
 

Vdubnick

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i have actually gotten best mileage 18+mpg driving in the mountains. the coasting really helps boost since it cuts fuel off. and the lower speed saves as well.
 

ranger10

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I run the MPT Tunes on my 2016 . Not much of a difference with the 91 Octane Fuel Economy tune. I have been running it this winter and which probably does not really help. My guess it will perform better in warmer weather as I always seem to get poorer gas mileage in the colder temps (probably from letting my vehicle idle all of the time).
 

Gregg Eshelman

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Interesting. I've noticed the front getting power while slipping in 4A but I would by no means call it clunky. In fact, I'm rather impressed with how well it works all things considered.

I can feel it engage and disengage. A little jerk when it does because the surface has to be slick enough to allow some slip between front and rear or it'll make itself felt in turns like driving in 4x4 High when the road is dry.

The 1990's AWD system wasn't noticeable. Always "on", always there. Nothing electrical to fail. Sending power to the front is faster with it because it's already sending a little forward all the time. Doesn't take much rear slip for the viscous coupling to grab.

It could be abused if one treated it too roughly. I rebuilt a transfer case on a 98 Mountaineer. The prior owner had somehow managed to bend the input shaft and the viscous coupling didn't have a healthy color. The chain was pretty loose too. So it got a new shaft, new chain, new bearings, and a rebuilt coupling.

Where this style of AWD doesn't work is off roading where you need the front traction *but* the back wheels have too much traction. They have to slip a bit first. Some years of the Oldsmobile Bravada had a similar AWD system and I've seen plenty of pics of them nose down in a ditch, stuck there because the rear wheels had too much grip to get full power going to the front. But for winter driving on snowy or muddy roads it's very good.
 

abnmike

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45 is a bit of an exaggeration, you can get over 20 doing 55-60 on relative flat ground. I have done it with my stock tune.

But at what passes for normal highway speeds in my neck of the woods, i.e., 75-80, I get around 17-17.5 tops.
I just averaged 19.4 interstate driving SC to NC running 70-75 over 400 miles one day trip.

I take awhile to get to 70 but once there I read traffic like Helen Keller reads braille and usually avoid braking and weave through traffic like a threaded needle.

I’m usually faster in the right lane since everyone thinks they’re “fast” and get over in the left and then don’t look 10-20 cars ahead, which is where most of my focus is.

‘17 Expedition EL
 
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