Your nuts if you think the factory sub amp...

[johnboneske]

Doesn't have any power! I was wiring in my adapter today so I can run either the factory DVC sub, or a single 10" DVC (dual 4 ohm)I have in a sealed 1.2 cuft3 box I have...

So screwing around I took my Kicker Comp 12's (4 ohm each) I have in a sealed box at 1.65cuft3 per side and wired it up to see if the factory amp has any power? Holy cow does it!!

I can make the mirror vibrate it's ass off and has plenty of power. Now I was just screwing around and put my 10 back in it...

I am NOT saying I wasn't making any THD driving it harder than the factory said it should be driven, but it works great!

BTW, I have a Sony aftermarket Head unit with sub outs, so I can adjust the level of the sub output.

 

[johnboneske]

BTW, my 10" DVC sub is an older Infinity Reference Beta I had laying around... and works great in the truck with just the factory amp.

 

[GAINMOB]

ur mirror may shake cuz it doesn't take much...but its a 100 watt amp...so it will move the sub...definitely not to full capability...I will say though...you are the ONLY ONE of the many that have changed their sub to give such a review...lol

 

[Lostneye]

Moving to 2 12"s or even a 10" will move quite a bit more air than a single 8". But 100W is not that powerful. If you are happy with it that's great and saves you money for another amp. I can shake my mirror with more power and a Polk 8" in the factory box but I still want more. I will be upgrading to at least one 12" and more power.

 

[johnboneske]

I don't do agree with you. But I assumed by reading all I have read on here it isn't enough power.(I would beg to differ)

But do you know the difference between 100 and 500 watts? Less than 7db. So a sub that has an efficiency of 93 or 94 dB @ 1w1m is "louder" than a sub with a 85 or 86 dB sensitivity.

I do plan on building (fiberglassing) a new box in the spring to hold my 10 in the factory location. I will update all of you on how my success goes-there is PLENTY of room to get 1.1cuft3 or more in there.

 

[johnboneske]

If you get a sub from someone like parts express with a longer Xmas a 10 will be as good as a 12.

 

[Lostneye]

I don't do agree with you. But I assumed by reading all I have read on here it isn't enough power.(I would beg to differ)

But do you know the difference between 100 and 500 watts? Less than 7db. So a sub that has an efficiency of 93 or 94 dB @ 1w1m is "louder" than a sub with a 85 or 86 dB sensitivity.

I do plan on building (fiberglassing) a new box in the spring to hold my 10 in the factory location. I will update all of you on how my success goes-there is PLENTY of room to get 1.1cuft3 or more in there.

I think the consensus is if you're doing the work it's worth the upgrade. Audio is subjective. Some people are plenty happy with the stock system. I am past the days of setting off car alarms with my system but want more than the THX system in my Navi can give.

7db is actually about 5 times as loud and will "sound" almost twice as loud to the human ear. Sound is exponential not linear and the human ear isn't that good with small changes in amplitude.

You are correct but as far as driver sensitivity however that's only one measurement. Different driver's behave differently and are affected by the enclosure they are in(size, sealed/ported) and the size of the interior and placement in the vehicle will all affect how it will sound. In general a higher sensitivity will be louder but other factors will affect it as well, including how much power the driver is getting.

If you get a sub from someone like parts express with a longer Xmas a 10 will be as good as a 12.

Just like sensitivity Xmas is only one measurement. On paper it may seem to translate well but in the real world it can be very different. The Thiele Small parameters are to be used a as a whole to aid in box design. While picking individual specs out can sometimes be helpful it doesn't tell the whole story.

 

[GAINMOB]

I don't do agree with you. But I assumed by reading all I have read on here it isn't enough power.(I would beg to differ)

But do you know the difference between 100 and 500 watts? Less than 7db. So a sub that has an efficiency of 93 or 94 dB @ 1w1m is "louder" than a sub with a 85 or 86 dB sensitivity.

I do plan on building (fiberglassing) a new box in the spring to hold my 10 in the factory location. I will update all of you on how my success goes-there is PLENTY of room to get 1.1cuft3 or more in there.

its all in the enclosure...the factory enclosure is sealed...I use vented/ported...I haven't dealt with anything less than 1500 rms in years...100 watts will shake the mirror so I'm not moved by that...at the end of the day...if ur happy ur good...u have plans on moving up in size...right now I 5 amps...and none are less than 6k rms...2-4500 rms...1-3500 rms...3-3000 rms...I want ppl to hear me before they see me...lol

 

[johnboneske]

Just an fyi... you can do it withis alot less power than that! I used to compete back in the day in IASCA and had 2 Orion HCCA 225's... one on the subs (4) 12's and one on front /rear and it would beat your ass... and later on with a Soundstream reference 404 on front/rear, and a reference 700 on the subs. but that was in a 79 Pontiac Bonneville 2dr... I did db drags once and ran 138.4db... it whooped ass!!

 

[Lostneye]

You're crazy if you think I'm going to believe those Orions only put out 100W

But you have a point there was a time when most name brand amps were underrated and bulletproof. Now it is completely opposite and going with big names doesn't mean you will get quality gear.

 

[GAINMOB]

Just an fyi... you can do it withis alot less power than that! I used to compete back in the day in IASCA and had 2 Orion HCCA 225's... one on the subs (4) 12's and one on front /rear and it would beat your ass... and later on with a Soundstream reference 404 on front/rear, and a reference 700 on the subs. but that was in a 79 Pontiac Bonneville 2dr... I did db drags once and ran 138.4db... it whooped ass!!

lol...I know a guy that's running 6 12s on 600 rms...it bangs pretty good...again...its the enclosure and wired ohms to make the amp work to full capacity

 

[johnboneske]

Yes... we both know the Orion were more than 100 watts... actually they were rated at 25×2... I think I have the actual spec sheet on them still somewhere?

 

[GAINMOB]

old school audio...lol

 

[Lostneye]

I think I have the actual spec sheet on them still somewhere?

I'd totally be interested in seeing that

 

[USMCBuckWild]

old school audio...lol

I still have a US Amps 50x2 amp somewhere in the garage. 50x2 at 8 ohms and its .5 ohm stable, that equates to ALOT of power. Looking through the clear bottom there is 8 gauge wiring running from the boards to the power/ground and the out puts.

Nothing wrong with "old school"






I know, old thread bump

 

[1955moose]

Like the member said, everyone is different as to what sound their looking for. I've been around sound systems in cars since the early seventies, when you had to make woofer enclosures and most items yourself. I remember when stock Ford, or Chevy stereos were horrible. We thought we were the man with a pioneer, or Blaupunkt after market unit, with a set of pioneer 6x9 speakers. Amps consisted of equalizer amp combos,that boosted the original 5 watts per channel. Just sounded loud and distorted to me. When they came out I ran alpine pre- amp only head units with separate amps, and separate speakers like Ads and a single 12 inch SUB. I remember the difference my 60 wpc Alpine amp made to my single SUB when I found out that amp could run in mono at 120 watts. Volume and bump went way up. What's disappointing nowadays because of rising costs, is the garbage quality of most stuff available. Ah the good old days.


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[spsfrank98]

I have a 03 EB with the in dash CD changer and the 8" sub which doesn't sound to bad. Im going to put in a double din radio with some speakers and a 5 channel amp. I'm curious does anyone have an idea an the cubic footage of the stock sub enclosure is I'm thinking of putting a 10" sub in there

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[whitelightning99]

Am old school still listening to cd's.lol but anyway "I plan to use what i already have" my old ass 2700 hundred watt 4 channel amp and my 2-12's sony explodes subs from 2009 lol in sealed custom made box with my old ass Alpine cd player head unit from 2000 ,that is if i decide i want to install the head unit not too sure, but right now using everything that came stock 1999 expedition eb with mach system an have one of my 12"s hooked to factory amp and i am surprised it bumps pretty good for just a tiny stock amp but i am looking for just a bit more not trying to go down the street vibrating all the windows in ppls houses one of these years i might upgrade to something newer just maybe

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

Am old school still listening to cd's.lol but anyway "I plan to use what i already have" my old ass 2700 hundred watt 4 channel amp and my 2-12's sony explodes subs from 2009 lol in sealed custom made box with my old ass Alpine cd player head unit from 2000 ,that is if i decide i want to install the head unit not too sure, but right now using everything that came stock 1999 expedition eb with mach system an have one of my 12"s hooked to factory amp and i am surprised it bumps pretty good for just a tiny stock amp but i am looking for just a bit more not trying to go down the street vibrating all the windows in ppls houses one of these years i might upgrade to something newer just maybe

I bought a JVC headunit for my last SUV in 2006 and was still running it when I sold the vehicle in 2015. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

[USMCBuckWild]

I bought a JVC headunit for my last SUV in 2006 and was still running it when I sold the vehicle in 2015. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Some of that old school stuff was built like a TANK! I had a JVC that lasted forever, just like yours. I also had a Pioneer P1R that was beyond advanced in 2000 when I sold it to my buddy and was still being used as of this past summer.