Never again

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GAINMOB

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I hate to say this but I'm going to anyway. All your 1, 2, and 3 word posts added nothing to the discussions and makes me question whether you were just posting because you were board. How about putting some thought to your posts and add some value. Then I might have more confidence in your company when I decide to buy a tuner for my 17.
Who are u talking about with the company programmer bit? I said 5 words...lol... seriously though not all comments are going to have a holy grail insight to help u with ur prob... like mine...i stated which one I used without any probs... there's nothing wrong with that and that's part of the forum... as long as ur not getting wrong/bad information it's all good... ppl will agree or disagree with certain things in every post... that's how this forum works... we know ur looking for answers but for those that don't have answers can still comment... from the early comments it sounds like it's the additive that caused it... but ppl are on here couching for the additives that they use like I did with no probs

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JExpedition07

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Now I may not have my expy but I really enjoy this forum and the knowledgeable people on here and that's why I'm going to remain a lurker here. I enjoy this forum more than FTE, which I haven't even been active on because the site is not as user friendly. I thought the same as Andy three words that dont appear to be directed to anything had me confused. He has every right to post it though I agree. I think at least for me I was more wondering what that short phrase was directed to, it could be directed to any of the many replies.
 
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ExpeditionAndy

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Who are u talking about with the company programmer bit? I said 5 words...lol... seriously though not all comments are going to have a holy grail insight to help u with ur prob... like mine...i stated which one I used without any probs... there's nothing wrong with that and that's part of the forum... as long as ur not getting wrong/bad information it's all good... ppl will agree or disagree with certain things in every post... that's how this forum works... we know ur looking for answers but for those that don't have answers can still comment... from the early comments it sounds like it's the additive that caused it... but ppl are on here couching for the additives that they use like I did with no probs

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I was commenting on this comment.

High mileage oil.

He or she posted 7 or 8 posts in different threads that were 1, 2, or 3 word responses that really didn't make a lot of sense and he is a preferred provider
 

ExpeditionAndy

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Now I may not have my expy but I really enjoy this forum and the knowledgeable people on here and that's why I'm going to remain a lurker here. I enjoy this forum more than FTE, which I haven't even been active on because the site is not as user friendly. I thought the same as Andy three words that dont appear to be directed to anything had me confused. He has every right to post it though I agree. I think at least for me I was more wondering what that short phrase was directed to, it could be directed to any of the many replies.
Exactly and they were all like that. I follow a lot of threads here. I like the site and I'm interested in learning all I can learn and sharing what I know or even helping members find things when I can locate them. It was just weird. If they had been attached to a quote it might have made sense. This way none of them made sense to me. :confused:
 

GAINMOB

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I was commenting on this comment.



He or she posted 7 or 8 posts in different threads that were 1, 2, or 3 word responses that really didn't make a lot of sense and he is a preferred provider
Gotcha...i think... he or she is suggesting high millage oil

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USMCBuckWild

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Don’t add any of that crap to your oil, plain and simple. Just don’t. I would be hard pressed to add that crap to my lawnmower. It all does more harm than good.

Have you ever seen the internals of an engine after running Lucas/Oil Honey/.etc?? You know what happens to that stuff when it starts to break down? It quite literally turns into a baked on crystalized film. Its like you Cerakoted or powder coated all your internals. Now all those oil valleys and small ports that are designed to maintain a very specific oil pressure to run different internal systems in your engine are coated with this baked on crud and are SMALLER than when you started. Which means your systems are getting LESS oil and are beginning to work outside of their designed oil pressure range.

Yes, it may take away your ticks for a short period of time but it does MORE damage over the long run.

GOOD quality oil, an OEM filter and be done. As previously stated I am running Rotella T6 and OEM filter. Yes the T6 is a 15w40. But it is at the thinner end of the 15 and 40 spectrum, which is inside the tolerances required by Ford. There is a bulletin out there somewhere that is from Ford stating if the customer complains of excessive 5.4 ticks with 5w20 to replace with oem filter and 10w30.

Just run good oil and OEM filter. Oil is cheaper than metal.
 
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ChrisOIFdoc

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Don’t add any of that crap to your oil, plain and simple. Just don’t. I would be hard pressed to add that crap to my lawnmower. It all does more harm than good.

Have you ever seen the internals of an engine after running Lucas/Oil Honey/.etc?? You know what happens to that stuff when it starts to break down? It quite literally turns into a baked on crystalized film. Its like you Cerakoted or powder coated all your internals. Now all those oil valleys and small ports that are designed to maintain a very specific oil pressure to run different internal systems in your engine are coated with this baked on crud and are SMALLER than when you started. Which means your systems are getting LESS oil and are beginning to work outside of their designed oil pressure range.

Yes, it may take away your ticks for a short period of time but it does MORE damage over the long run.

GOOD quality oil, an OEM filter and be done. As previously stated I am running Rotella T6 and OEM filter. Yes the T6 is a 15w40. But it is at the thinner end of the 15 and 40 spectrum, which is inside the tolerances required by Ford. There is a bulletin out there somewhere that is from Ford stating if the customer complains of excessive 5.4 ticks with 5w20 to replace with oem filter and 10w30.

Just run good oil and OEM filter. Oil is cheaper than metal.

Hence the title "Never again"
 

Journey

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I clearly do not have as much experience as you guys but I'll put my two cents in anyways to contribute to this discussion:

I've always been tempted to try additives in hopes of keeping the engine 'healthy' for the long haul but fortunately I never have, afterall; everything seems to be working just fine so far (at 190,000 miles) so why change the situation if it's not broke yet.

...and high-mileage oil... - I took my 1st gen into the dealership about 5 months ago for a heavy "tune-up" (really, all they did was mostly a 90,000 mile service I think). Anyways, I looked closer at the paperwork last night (now that the car's in my name I'm more comfortable taking care of repairs/maintenance myself) and I noticed they put 5w-20 in it. After some research I found out that Ford switched to using this for better gas mileage??? Is that true? Manual and engine bay says 5w-30, and on another note: they put in DOT4 instead of DOT3 which the manual and housing cap calls out for and I'm not sure why they did that too??

Gonna cut to the chase

I appreciate all this information, and what I've learned from this thread and the "which oil/filter do you use?":

-Not gonna take it into Jiffy Lube ever again after I noticed that cheap ass oil filter down under there last weekend
-Going to stick with OEM oil/air filters (until I find something better)
-Going to stick with one brand of oil (this was mentioned in the other post, and it's a great idea, my expy's had all different brands in there)
-I got my free sample kit coming in the mail from Blackstone, so I'll do a test after I put fresh oil in there, and see where that takes me

Lastly, I'm still up in the air between using conventional/high-mileage/semi-synthetic and synthetic oil. My car's always had conventional....isn't high-mileage still conventional or is it semi-synthetic? I don't know, I feel iffy about making a change into synthetic because everything seems to be fine at 190,000 - would love to see her go for half-a-million....what do you guys think?
 

ExpeditionAndy

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I clearly do not have as much experience as you guys but I'll put my two cents in anyways to contribute to this discussion:

I've always been tempted to try additives in hopes of keeping the engine 'healthy' for the long haul but fortunately I never have, afterall; everything seems to be working just fine so far (at 190,000 miles) so why change the situation if it's not broke yet.

...and high-mileage oil... - I took my 1st gen into the dealership about 5 months ago for a heavy "tune-up" (really, all they did was mostly a 90,000 mile service I think). Anyways, I looked closer at the paperwork last night (now that the car's in my name I'm more comfortable taking care of repairs/maintenance myself) and I noticed they put 5w-20 in it. After some research I found out that Ford switched to using this for better gas mileage??? Is that true? Manual and engine bay says 5w-30, and on another note: they put in DOT4 instead of DOT3 which the manual and housing cap calls out for and I'm not sure why they did that too??

Gonna cut to the chase

I appreciate all this information, and what I've learned from this thread and the "which oil/filter do you use?":

-Not gonna take it into Jiffy Lube ever again after I noticed that cheap ass oil filter down under there last weekend
-Going to stick with OEM oil/air filters (until I find something better)
-Going to stick with one brand of oil (this was mentioned in the other post, and it's a great idea, my expy's had all different brands in there)
-I got my free sample kit coming in the mail from Blackstone, so I'll do a test after I put fresh oil in there, and see where that takes me

Lastly, I'm still up in the air between using conventional/high-mileage/semi-synthetic and synthetic oil. My car's always had conventional....isn't high-mileage still conventional or is it semi-synthetic? I don't know, I feel iffy about making a change into synthetic because everything seems to be fine at 190,000 - would love to see her go for half-a-million....what do you guys think?
Hi Journey.

Dot4 is a higher grade of brake fluid than dot 3 it could be that Ford is moving all vehicles to better fluid. "DOT4 brake fluid has a higher boiling point than DOT3, making the fluid less likely to boil. ... Dot 3, 4, and 5.1 are glycol ether based. They are compatible, but like motor oils, you should use the recommended or higher grade fluid. Dot 4 and 5.1 also have borate ester to handle higher temperatures."

OEM provides good quality filters.

At your trucks age, stick with what's working. If you start noticing smoke out the tailpipe switch back to the 5W-30 otherwise continue to use the the 5W-20 if it doesn't create an issue. Conventional oil is fine but you can switch to semi synthetic if you want.

My new truck came with semi-synthetic oil I went old school and changed it after 1000 miles, dropped off a sample at Blackstone (about 8 miles from where I live) and had the dealer go with full synthetic. I'm just at 5000 miles so once I hit 6000 miles, I'll do another oil change and drop off another sample at Blackstone to see what's changed.

For the new engine I think the synthetic will increase it's longevity with an engine with 190K on the clock, just keep doing what your doing.
 
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