razrback
Full Access Members
Maps no problem, electrical diagrams, well that's another issue.
Do you have any gut feeling what is going on?
Do you have any gut feeling what is going on?
2003 Exp EB key did not turn off car
- Thread starter razrback
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Send me an email address and l'll send you some pdf's. Fuse F13 should have no power with the ignition switch disconnected.
Somethings not kosher in Denmark....
Look at your vin plate for the manufactured date and let me know what it is.
Somethings not kosher in Denmark....
Look at your vin plate for the manufactured date and let me know what it is.
razrback
Full Access Members
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Sent you some info.
Does it have remote start?
Does it have remote start?
Last edited:
razrback
Full Access Members
Sorry, just now seeing this post. After your last post, I got kinda discouraged and quit watching the blog.
No remote start, nothing added, still as we bought it in 02. Best car I've ever owned and before all this, ran like a champ. It's our primary vehicle and it's our travel car. Mileage getting up there, but very well taken care of.
I can't believe this might be the end, never expected an electrical issue might do it in for us. I haven't given up yet, but with my lack of electrical understanding and the fear of the cost of someone else trying to fix it, makes me sad.
No remote start, nothing added, still as we bought it in 02. Best car I've ever owned and before all this, ran like a champ. It's our primary vehicle and it's our travel car. Mileage getting up there, but very well taken care of.
I can't believe this might be the end, never expected an electrical issue might do it in for us. I haven't given up yet, but with my lack of electrical understanding and the fear of the cost of someone else trying to fix it, makes me sad.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
First thing is stop this doom and gloom thinking.
This now has become a way for you to learn about basic electrical - no big deal. There is nothing magical about the electrical system once you know understand how it works. These are brain teasers and you have to use logic to diagnose the problems.
Don't expect a quick easy fix. Electrical problems can take a long time to locate but are usually a 5 minute fix once they are found.
This now has become a way for you to learn about basic electrical - no big deal. There is nothing magical about the electrical system once you know understand how it works. These are brain teasers and you have to use logic to diagnose the problems.
Don't expect a quick easy fix. Electrical problems can take a long time to locate but are usually a 5 minute fix once they are found.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
One thing that we should try to determine is the sequence of events when the key is turned to "off". What is the pcm doing to shut down the engine? Is it just killing the fuel pump and stays powered on? Or is the pcm powering down completely?
Does your meter have the ability to measure current?
Does your meter have the ability to measure current?
razrback
Full Access Members
Sorry about the gloom & doom, one of those traits passed down from mom. As for electrical experience, I fully understand house electrical. BUT, mainly you got 3 wires, and they're all either black, white or ground. In the darn car seems like there are thousands, and you have no easy way of knowing where they run and if there some freaking connector, relay or switch that's causing the problem. If electrical repair was documented like how to replace a wheel hub, I'd be golden!
OK, I need you to follow-up on a request from yesterday - "With the ignition switch disconnected see if you have power on both sides of fuse 13 in the cjb."
I not sure I did this test correctly. I actually pulled fuse 13 and then placed the red probe in the vacated fuse spot on the CJB and the black probe into the ground for the CJB. Was this correct?
I "think" my meter will measure current, if not, I'll get one that does.
And thank you for the documents you sent.
OK, I need you to follow-up on a request from yesterday - "With the ignition switch disconnected see if you have power on both sides of fuse 13 in the cjb."
I not sure I did this test correctly. I actually pulled fuse 13 and then placed the red probe in the vacated fuse spot on the CJB and the black probe into the ground for the CJB. Was this correct?
I "think" my meter will measure current, if not, I'll get one that does.
And thank you for the documents you sent.
Last edited:
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Think of this as house electrical with one major difference being this is DC where the house is ACK.
Please retest fuse 13 for power with the ignition switch disconnected. If it is one of the rectangular fuses you do have to pull it out.
If it does have power on either "lug" reinstall the fuse and test for power at the ignition switch connector for pin 1 with the switch still disconnected. I don't have the diagrams with me and am trusting my memory on this. Make sure you are using a good ground for the test.
If you have power on pin 1 then you have a back feed on the bus on page 16. That would make the most sense at this point.
Post a pic of your meter and I'll tell you if it measures current.
As far as the number of wires is concerned there is more to the diagrams than what you have. The oem includes location diagrams with physical routing info, connector layout with pin assignment and where splices are located. Work with this for a few years and then look at house wiring then it will be "they're all the same color".
This is the type of work I ended up with when the other mechanics couldn't find the problem:
https://www.google.com/search?q=sch..._AUIEigC&biw=601&bih=962#imgrc=zh1bHTk1Euy_2M:
Took longer to clean crap like this up than it did to find/fix the problem.
Please retest fuse 13 for power with the ignition switch disconnected. If it is one of the rectangular fuses you do have to pull it out.
If it does have power on either "lug" reinstall the fuse and test for power at the ignition switch connector for pin 1 with the switch still disconnected. I don't have the diagrams with me and am trusting my memory on this. Make sure you are using a good ground for the test.
If you have power on pin 1 then you have a back feed on the bus on page 16. That would make the most sense at this point.
Post a pic of your meter and I'll tell you if it measures current.
As far as the number of wires is concerned there is more to the diagrams than what you have. The oem includes location diagrams with physical routing info, connector layout with pin assignment and where splices are located. Work with this for a few years and then look at house wiring then it will be "they're all the same color".
This is the type of work I ended up with when the other mechanics couldn't find the problem:
https://www.google.com/search?q=sch..._AUIEigC&biw=601&bih=962#imgrc=zh1bHTk1Euy_2M:
Took longer to clean crap like this up than it did to find/fix the problem.
Last edited:
razrback
Full Access Members
Correct my thinking please.
My thought is CJB is the same as a breaker box in the house. Let's say a light in the ceiling. The breaker box for that circuit is hot, there is a hot line running to my light switch, the hot to the light is on/off based on the light switch setting.
I was thinking fuse 13 lug, 1 side should be hot always (breaker box). And the wire to the rear window defrost (light switch) is hot as well, but the wire to the window defrost is on/off based on the switch setting.
But above you state that the CJB should not be hot with the ignition switch unplugged. So now you see my confusion...
My thought is CJB is the same as a breaker box in the house. Let's say a light in the ceiling. The breaker box for that circuit is hot, there is a hot line running to my light switch, the hot to the light is on/off based on the light switch setting.
I was thinking fuse 13 lug, 1 side should be hot always (breaker box). And the wire to the rear window defrost (light switch) is hot as well, but the wire to the window defrost is on/off based on the switch setting.
But above you state that the CJB should not be hot with the ignition switch unplugged. So now you see my confusion...
Similar threads
