Boostedbus
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Kudos for sticking with it through all the frustration and finally prevailing.Good job! Now you can enjoy the finished product you’ve accomplished with your own hands.
5.4L Triton timing set, replace oil pump?
- Thread starter JExpedition07
- Start date
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07navi
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And stick with Ford !!!!!!!!!!
Boostedbus
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Amen brother! True Blue!And stick with Ford !!!!!!!!!!
OP
OP
Well I did all true blue parts so I’ve given Ford my dues for the month, even my oil pump is Ford OE and I ignored all the Melling hype lol. I’m always going to be a Ford guy but these engine bays are cramped.....just nice to have the Expy back under its own power once again.
OP
OP
It’ll take a month to get the grime out of my hands. Happy trucking.
Boostedbus
Full Access Members
Yeah but she’s purring like a kitten!
Just read this one. Funny. But I still don’t understand why it’s Fords fault if you didn’t do this properly.
I do agree though these big V8 OHC, VVT, 3v 5.4’s are notorious for this originally suspected failure.
So are the 3.5 EB’s so I totally sympathize w your suburban comment.
I’m looking for another truck/SUV and don’t want 3v 5.4 nor EB but friends are talking into the 3.5. I know I’ll lose sleep worrying about the dreaded Diesel engine noise at start up.
OP
OP
Nothing failed it was just a loud air locked power steering pump. Don’t buy an EcoBoost with the startup rattle, you’ll be in for thousands as the parts aren’t cheap and unlike the 5.4L it’s not the tensioners but actual chain stretch since they only used one.
OP
OP
So now that it’s behind me I’m going to add what I learned here and useful info for people who do this in the future. I had to do the job twice because my screw ups
Tools you need:
-Sockets— 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, and 18mm will get you through this job
-You want an 8mm ratcheting box wrench for the oil pump pickup
-1/2” breaker bar
-gasket maker
-channel locks and needle nose pliers
These things will get you through this job. I had a very difficult time with the OTC spring compressor tool and fought it a lot on the rockers. I cheated and tediously re-timed the engine after my chain came loose the first time (tensioner arms on incorrect banks first time) then very SLOWLY tightened the cams down with rockers in place evenly on each cap and later torqued one cap at a time by tightening the surrounding caps and loosening the one to be torqued. This takes a while but it avoided warpage (I think lol). You should not follow me here you will waste time, follow the advice of others and place all rockers that are “relaxed” in first then just use the tool for the compressed ones off base circle later when you can spin engine to get it there. On that bottom oil pump bolt pull the PS line off the front frame rail and get your head in there. Putting that bolt back in was tough, arguably the most difficult part of the job. If you have sausage fingers good luck idk what to offer. When you pull the valve covers my recommendation is to pull the battery box. The drivers side is was harder imo but passenger you just have to fight it past the coolant lines. I called my dad in for help on pass valve cover removal so that may be why it seemed easier having 4 hands on it. Put cardboard in front of the radiator. At the end don’t get discouraged like me if you hear grinding, my PS pump was screaming and totally had me fooled into thinking I had major trouble. If you have grinding noise turn the wheel and see if that effects it. I could not find a bleed procedure so I pulled the valve and turned it lock to lock several times which fixed the grinding.
Finally oil pump installation was tedious take your time and line it up good on the crankshaft. Make sure it seats flush against the engine block and it will be ok. To pull the Harmonic balancer back on I hit it with a lead hammer a bit then let the crank bolt tighten it in against the cover. My biggest piece of advice is TAKE a BEFORE picture when you open up the engine. Your tensioner arms are not marked which bank but it is important. My before picture quickly revealed my screw up when I pulled it back apart.
Tools you need:
-Sockets— 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, and 18mm will get you through this job
-You want an 8mm ratcheting box wrench for the oil pump pickup
-1/2” breaker bar
-gasket maker
-channel locks and needle nose pliers
These things will get you through this job. I had a very difficult time with the OTC spring compressor tool and fought it a lot on the rockers. I cheated and tediously re-timed the engine after my chain came loose the first time (tensioner arms on incorrect banks first time) then very SLOWLY tightened the cams down with rockers in place evenly on each cap and later torqued one cap at a time by tightening the surrounding caps and loosening the one to be torqued. This takes a while but it avoided warpage (I think lol). You should not follow me here you will waste time, follow the advice of others and place all rockers that are “relaxed” in first then just use the tool for the compressed ones off base circle later when you can spin engine to get it there. On that bottom oil pump bolt pull the PS line off the front frame rail and get your head in there. Putting that bolt back in was tough, arguably the most difficult part of the job. If you have sausage fingers good luck idk what to offer. When you pull the valve covers my recommendation is to pull the battery box. The drivers side is was harder imo but passenger you just have to fight it past the coolant lines. I called my dad in for help on pass valve cover removal so that may be why it seemed easier having 4 hands on it. Put cardboard in front of the radiator. At the end don’t get discouraged like me if you hear grinding, my PS pump was screaming and totally had me fooled into thinking I had major trouble. If you have grinding noise turn the wheel and see if that effects it. I could not find a bleed procedure so I pulled the valve and turned it lock to lock several times which fixed the grinding.
Finally oil pump installation was tedious take your time and line it up good on the crankshaft. Make sure it seats flush against the engine block and it will be ok. To pull the Harmonic balancer back on I hit it with a lead hammer a bit then let the crank bolt tighten it in against the cover. My biggest piece of advice is TAKE a BEFORE picture when you open up the engine. Your tensioner arms are not marked which bank but it is important. My before picture quickly revealed my screw up when I pulled it back apart.
Last edited:
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