97 expo dont run right

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strokin393

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Ok I took a plug out of each side and on pass side its wet and smells like gas and driver side dry and kinda black so I know its burning/firing on that side. I don't have any clue what it could be but maybe bad rings, valves, or blown head gasket. What do you think?
 
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strokin393

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Ok, I only did the compression test on the first 3 on pass side and first 2 on driver side. The 3 on pass side were low... 75, 74, 75. Driver side front 2 were 160 and 175.
What could it be with that and plugs staying wet with gas, head gasket? What should I do next and can someone give me step by step instructions on how to change the head gasket or changing whole motor? I might have to sell truck.
 
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Racenut

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For those first 3 cylinders on the passanger side do the compression test again but squirt a little bit of oil down the hole first this is called a " wet compression test".

What the oil will do is seal any gaps in the rings and if the compression numbers go way up ( closly matching the drivers side ) then you know that you need new rings.

If the numbers do not go up then you can count on it being either a head gasket or bad valves.

Honestly it kinda sounds like the truck may have been really hot and " warped a head " but it is hard to tell until you do the " Wet compression test ".
 

Racenut

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Also the 2 readings from the drivers side look pretty good as far as pressure goes, but the difference between the 2 makes me kinda uneasy.

If you can try to test ALL of the cylinders both " Dry " and then " Wet " and post the readings.

Try to post the readings with the cylinder number.

Example:

Cylinder

1 Dry 160 Wet 175
2 Dry 155 Wet 170

and remember Passanger side from front to back is 1,2,3,4 and drivers side front to back is 5,6,7,8.

If you can post these numbers for me I can advise you wich way to go regarding motor rebuild, replacement, or just doing the head gaskets and maybe a valve job.
 
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strokin393

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I did a wet one on pass side but don't know if I use the right amount of oil but it didn't go up much. How much do I use, cap full or more?
 

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I did a wet one on pass side but don't know if I use the right amount of oil but it didn't go up much. How much do I use, cap full or more?

You do not need much, a cap full should be more than enough.

If the numbers did not go up considerably, then I would deffinatly say " do the leak down test ".

The leak down test will tell you where the lost compression is going that way you know what you are up against.

The easiest way to do the leak down test is to use the same hose you used for the compression test, BUT MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE SHRADER VALVE FROM THE END ( if you do not do this, no air will travel into the cylinder ).

You really do not need any special gauge to do the test, just put the compression tester line into the spark plug hole ( after removing the valve in the end ) and conect it to an air compressor ( make sure that the cylinder you are testing is at TDC and also make sure the compresser is far enough away that you can hear the air moving thru the motor ). Listen to your Exhaust, take the air intake off and open the throttle body and listen, also take off the oil filler cap and listen, and lastly take off the coolant tank cap and listen.

Air coming from Exhaust = Burnt or damaged Exhaust valves
Air coming from Intake = Burnt or damaged Intake valves
Air coming from oil fill = Bad rings, blown head gasket between cylinders, or warped head
Air coming from coolant tank = blown head gasket or warped head

Basically from the info you are giving I would say that the " short block " ( pistons, rings, bearings, block, ETC. ) is ok, but it does sound like the truck may have been severly overheated and either took out a head gasket or warped a head.

Usually if you have just one or two cylinders with lower numbers I would say bad valves, but to have a full bank with low numbers I am leaning towards a warped head.

If you do have a warped head you have a couple of options. You can take both heads to a machine shop and have them " deck " the head surface ( make it level again ) and while they are at it full vavle job ( roughly $200 per head ).

You can find a set of heads out of a wrecking yard. You can get the heads used from a wrecking yard off of any 5.4L from the same year ( Expy, F150, Super Duty ) as they are all the same ( roughly $ 200 ).


You can buy NEW heads ( this would be the most expensive route around $400 each for after market replacements which are usually remanufactured but come with a 1 yr waranty )

Or if you would like to up the power a little bit you could get a set of heads from a 2000 - 2002 wich are the PI heads. These heads will give you a +/- increase of 30 HP. If you do decide to go this route, you will need the intake off of the same year as well, becuase yours will not line up. If you go this route make sure to get the valve covers as well because in these years they had the Windsor and the Romero ( head mounting is all the same but the valve cover mounting is different ).
 
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strokin393

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You do not need much, a cap full should be more than enough.

If the numbers did not go up considerably, then I would deffinatly say " do the leak down test ".

The leak down test will tell you where the lost compression is going that way you know what you are up against.

The easiest way to do the leak down test is to use the same hose you used for the compression test, BUT MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE SHRADER VALVE FROM THE END ( if you do not do this, no air will travel into the cylinder ).

You really do not need any special gauge to do the test, just put the compression tester line into the spark plug hole ( after removing the valve in the end ) and conect it to an air compressor ( make sure that the cylinder you are testing is at TDC and also make sure the compresser is far enough away that you can hear the air moving thru the motor ). Listen to your Exhaust, take the air intake off and open the throttle body and listen, also take off the oil filler cap and listen, and lastly take off the coolant tank cap and listen.

Air coming from Exhaust = Burnt or damaged Exhaust valves
Air coming from Intake = Burnt or damaged Intake valves
Air coming from oil fill = Bad rings, blown head gasket between cylinders, or warped head
Air coming from coolant tank = blown head gasket or warped head

Basically from the info you are giving I would say that the " short block " ( pistons, rings, bearings, block, ETC. ) is ok, but it does sound like the truck may have been severly overheated and either took out a head gasket or warped a head.

Usually if you have just one or two cylinders with lower numbers I would say bad valves, but to have a full bank with low numbers I am leaning towards a warped head.

If you do have a warped head you have a couple of options. You can take both heads to a machine shop and have them " deck " the head surface ( make it level again ) and while they are at it full vavle job ( roughly $200 per head ).

You can find a set of heads out of a wrecking yard. You can get the heads used from a wrecking yard off of any 5.4L from the same year ( Expy, F150, Super Duty ) as they are all the same ( roughly $ 200 ).


You can buy NEW heads ( this would be the most expensive route around $400 each for after market replacements which are usually remanufactured but come with a 1 yr waranty )

Or if you would like to up the power a little bit you could get a set of heads from a 2000 - 2002 wich are the PI heads. These heads will give you a +/- increase of 30 HP. If you do decide to go this route, you will need the intake off of the same year as well, becuase yours will not line up. If you go this route make sure to get the valve covers as well because in these years they had the Windsor and the Romero ( head mounting is all the same but the valve cover mounting is different ).
How would I know if I got each one to TDC? What if I do number 1 and I hear air coming out somewhere, do I finish by checking others? Thanks
 

Racenut

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How would I know if I got each one to TDC? What if I do number 1 and I hear air coming out somewhere, do I finish by checking others? Thanks

The easiest way to find TDC is to pull the plug for the cylinder you are working on, and put a waded up paper towel in the top of the hole ( MAKE SURE IT IS IN LOOSLY as the compression builds it will blow it out ).

MAKE SURE YOU STILL HAVE THE FUEL PUMP DISABLED!!!!!

Slowly " bump " the key until you see the paper towel come out of the hole.

TDC = piston at the very top of the cylinder on compression stroke. With the motor on TDC of the compression stroke all valves in that cyliner are closed.

Once the paper towel comes out, get a VERY LONG screw driver ( 12" + ) and GENTLY set it down the hole on top of the piston. Slowly turn the crank towards the drivers side with a socket and rachet while watching the handle of the screw driver. While turning the motor you will see the screw driver handle coming " UP " once you see that it starts going back " DOWN " ( MAKE SURE YOU ARE TURNING IT SLOW and it helps to keep your hand on top of the screw driver handle so you can FEEL as soon as it changes direction ) then you are at TDC.

MAKE SURE YOU TEST EVERY CYLINDER! I know it is a PITA to get to some of the rear ones, but you need to know the condition of EVERY cylinder.

Post up the results for each cylinder and I will try to advise you on the best route to go for fixing your truck.
 
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strokin393

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Do I need the leak down tester kit with a gauge or can I just use the compressor and the hose part of the compression kit that screws in the spark plug hole and how much air can I or do I need?
 

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Do I need the leak down tester kit with a gauge or can I just use the compressor and the hose part of the compression kit that screws in the spark plug hole and how much air can I or do I need?

READ POST #46 AGAIN I EXPLAINED IT ALL IN THAT POST. I TOLD YOU IN THAT POST THAT YOU DO NOT NEED TO GET THE LEAK DOWN TESTER KIT, AND THAT ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS USE THE COMPRESSION TESTER HOSE BUT TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU PULL THE SHRADER VALVE OUT OF THE BOTTOM FIRST! THEN HOOK IT TO AN AIR COMPRESSOR AND LISTEN FOR WHERE THE AIR IS COMING FROM.

As for the amount of air use the regulator on the compressor and turn it down to about 75PSI. That will be more than enough so that you can hear / feel where the air is going.
 
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