confirmation and manual pdf

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studabaker

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So I have known for some time that my transmission is not working properly when it does not want to reverse and shifts jerky some times. Does this indicate any other problems? such as torque converter?

After confirming my transmission is going out I am considering doing this myself.

can anyone link a detail of the removal process and install of a 4r100?
 
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studabaker

studabaker

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I have found that any 4r100 from a 4x4 5.4 will fit into my truck.

A transmission hoist will support the 270 lbs on removal and positioning for reinstall. This is difficult enough for me to not feel ashamed to have a professional do it. I had some confusing gibberish posted because I was concerned about attempting this. Obviously disconnecting it from the axles and engine would have been the easy part. Maneuvering this without injury and functioning smoothly is the challenge.
 
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stamp11127

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Those are the basic steps for trans r/r. Doesn't hurt to also disconnect the battery.
That is also double the work when rebuilds are readily available. Make sure you strap the trans to the jack good. If you don't they will fall off - Murphy's Law.
Portable impact wrenches will speed things up considerably if you have access to them.
Remember to lift the car up enough to get the trans out while on the jack - and keep everything level. Very important to be level.
Once you have the trans rebuilt I'd recommend an external trans cooler. If the cooler in the radiator fails it will take out you new trans. I know, lesson learned.
Speedo is electronic and fed by a sensor on the tailshaft.
You may be able to leave the trans connected to the transfer case if there is enough room under there. If not it will need to be removed before the trans.
Always flush the trans cooler before installing a new trans - a step that is etched in stone. Flushes are available at the larger parts houses. Don't go cheap here.
 
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studabaker

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Thank u

I certainly appreciate the assurance and the advice from experience.

I am feeling robbed from the dealership that I bought my expedition from and I really appreciate your making this a little easier.

I am getting a used replacement so that I can take my time.

Maybe the exact torque specifications of the axles and transmission and the torque converter are in the Chiltons manual I am getting tomorrow.
 
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studabaker

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Conclusions

I think this is possible for a person with some mechanical experience. I approached certain time requirements that forced me to have this job done by a reasonable mechanic. An affordable labor cost I have found was 650 dollars. Finding the transmission was a relief and reported by the seller to be running when removed from the previous vehicle.

The mechanic scratched my rear hatch by the windshield wiper somehow. So the grease all over the scratched area was not touched by the mechanics working on my vehicle?

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I am running smoothly. I have been running fine now for 2.5 years on a used transmission. I have finally been able to replace ball joints and going for a smoother ride. Just ironing out the last wobbles.

I was told the replacement was from a 2001 Eddie Bauer which I believe had a 2h setting and an additional trans oil cooler. It might be interesting to look into having a 2h option on my non Eddie Bauer and a trans cooler.

I still have this slight wobble on smooth road. Fresh suspension parts (shocks/ ball joints/ tie rods/ front wheel hub) leads me to suspect the front axle... I am getting ready to do the rear axle bearings and seals first.
 
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