By direct drive, do you mean not in overdrive?
Dyno'd New Engine
- Thread starter devincox
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
By direct drive, do you mean not in overdrive?
drewactual
Full Access Members
why fear the RPM? I've never got that...
the OE's don't test every vehicle for mileage... the EPA uses a calculation on speed/overall gearing/RPM/ displacement and VE.
on paper the taller gear gets better mileage, but rarely in reality- especially for heavier vehicles.
mind a vacuum gauge when operating. higher signal indicates less load... less load indicates the fuel is being trimmed and the PCM/o2 is sniffing 'crossing zero' on the lambda- which is to say it is minutely adding duty cycle to the injectors and minutely pulling duty cycle from the injectors, and the engine is achieving very close to stoichiometric air to fuel ratio's- which is HELLA better for your engine, your transmission, your temperature delta's, and your fuel economy than running the same speed @ 2/3's the RPM and drawing hella less vacuum (increased load).
o/d locked means there is a mechanical connection between the engines crank and the transmission via the torque converter's lock, and no fluid coupling of the torque converter which makes for hotter transmission temperatures... when the o'd is off, the t/c doesn't lock- which allows for torque amplification to take place and less load on the engine (at the expense of higher transmission temperature).
the lower gears (higher numerically) stated above sounds counter intuitive, and there certainly is a point of diminishing returns - you'll only be able to discover (and dial in precisely what you desire by playing with axle ratio and overall tire height) what you're looking for by use of a vacuum gauge and impacting the overall ratio by playing with those two factors. you're kinda stuck with the transmission ratio's, limited in selection with t/c stall ranges, and the camshaft/valve event-displacement-VE is going to determine the RPM range best suited for your application.... Ford tried to hit it in the general area for the widest uses, but it's up to you to dial it in.
the OE's don't test every vehicle for mileage... the EPA uses a calculation on speed/overall gearing/RPM/ displacement and VE.
on paper the taller gear gets better mileage, but rarely in reality- especially for heavier vehicles.
mind a vacuum gauge when operating. higher signal indicates less load... less load indicates the fuel is being trimmed and the PCM/o2 is sniffing 'crossing zero' on the lambda- which is to say it is minutely adding duty cycle to the injectors and minutely pulling duty cycle from the injectors, and the engine is achieving very close to stoichiometric air to fuel ratio's- which is HELLA better for your engine, your transmission, your temperature delta's, and your fuel economy than running the same speed @ 2/3's the RPM and drawing hella less vacuum (increased load).
o/d locked means there is a mechanical connection between the engines crank and the transmission via the torque converter's lock, and no fluid coupling of the torque converter which makes for hotter transmission temperatures... when the o'd is off, the t/c doesn't lock- which allows for torque amplification to take place and less load on the engine (at the expense of higher transmission temperature).
the lower gears (higher numerically) stated above sounds counter intuitive, and there certainly is a point of diminishing returns - you'll only be able to discover (and dial in precisely what you desire by playing with axle ratio and overall tire height) what you're looking for by use of a vacuum gauge and impacting the overall ratio by playing with those two factors. you're kinda stuck with the transmission ratio's, limited in selection with t/c stall ranges, and the camshaft/valve event-displacement-VE is going to determine the RPM range best suited for your application.... Ford tried to hit it in the general area for the widest uses, but it's up to you to dial it in.
NVH
Towing a trailer for 8-14 hours a day for several days at highways speeds with the engine spinning at 3k+ RPM sucks. Not recommended if you value comfort at all during your road trips.
2¢
drewactual
Full Access Members
if the OP is driving even 3 hours a day in an expedition towing, he's in the wrong vehicle and gears is the least of his issues... but, i agree... noise vibration and harshness will wear on a man for that kind of period.
ExplorerTom
Full Access Members
Drew, Thats a bit of an exaggeration. It's a 1/2 ton chassis. There are plenty of trailers that are easily towed behind a 1/2 ton. You don't need a 3/4 or full ton to tow an 1800 lb popup.
drewactual
Full Access Members
True... but the post above mine was equally absurd.
Hardly.
Load up a 5k popup and leave the centre of the continent to go to either coast to catch a ferry or meet up with others in your convoy. Oh, and you only get two weeks to get the travelling done AND enjoy the destination(s).
It's not for everyone. Remember that your use case is not the same as everyone else's.
2¢
When I travel, it's usually somewhere far away. All the places I like to go are at least 10 hours from me. I also like to travel at least 75mph on the highway so I can spend more time playing and less time driving. That's just me, and I'm not changing now. (c:
I don't care about gas mileage at all, it is what it is but I don't like NVH at all. I'm going to take the interior out and spray on some lizard skin to help with this.
I don't care about gas mileage at all, it is what it is but I don't like NVH at all. I'm going to take the interior out and spray on some lizard skin to help with this.
ExplorerTom
Full Access Members
I've also been considering the Lizard Skin treatment.
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
Ford quietly redesigned the thermostat in 2022...replace it- Latest: wakeboarder
-
