Engine knock 2000 5.4 Eddie Bauer

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superexpy

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I would check spark plugs make sure none are loose. It could launch one if she is loosening up.

Rod knock typically gets worse with load. Could be exhaust hitting somewhere due to bad motor mounts, etc... Cam follower tensioners "lifters" knock is usually less severe in sound. It could be intermittent. Also if timing chain guides or tensioners are failing the timing chain could be hitting the timing cover. Injectors can be noisy as well.

Agreed with Toms89! Alot of the time I have seen this issue its a loose plug.
 

superexpy

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Thats a weird sound. Mabey when you rev it up like that till it knocks touch each coil pack and see if it vibrates to the knocking. I am kind of wondering if its you chain tencheners tho
 

toms89

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Wow.. That sounds harsh.

My first guess would rods possibly followed by valvetrain just due to the intensity. But its impossible to locate the sound via the video. A mechanic stethoscope would help.

I would check spark plugs to eliminate them as the source. A loose plug would not necessarily misfire but could move around in the hole.

Removing the valve cover may show if there is valve train issue.

I would recommend doing something soon before something fails catastrophically. Get an estimate / diagnosis at a few shops if possible?!
 

toms89

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Thats a weird sound. Mabey when you rev it up like that till it knocks touch each coil pack and see if it vibrates to the knocking. I am kind of wondering if its you chain tencheners tho

That's where a mechanics stethoscope would really come in handy!! Key areas to listen..

Timing chain cover, valve covers, engine block, cops, injectors...

With it being that loud it should be obvious.
 
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superexpy

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Wow.. That sounds harsh.

My first guess would rods possibly followed by valvetrain just due to the intensity. But its impossible to locate the sound via the video. A mechanic stethoscope would help.

I would check spark plugs to eliminate them as the source. A loose plug would not necessarily misfire but could move around in the hole.

Removing the valve cover may show if there is valve train issue.

I would recommend doing something soon before something fails catastrophically. Get an estimate / diagnosis at a few shops if possible?!

Sounded kind of like rods to me too except it seemed to be coming from the top. one thing I also noticed is when he let off or the RPM's are coming down there is no noise. If it were valve train flopping around i would think it would do it on acceleration and de-acceleration at same RPM's. What were you doing when this started?
 

toms89

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Sounded kind of like rods to me too except it seemed to be coming from the top. one thing I also noticed is when he let off or the RPM's are coming down there is no noise. If it were valve train flopping around i would think it would do it on acceleration and de-acceleration at same RPM's. What were you doing when this started?

I was curious about this as well. What event may have preceded this noise if any.
 

stamp11127

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Went looking on you tube for a video on what rod knock sounds like for all the newbies. Ran across a decent one that explains in laymen terms and that the basic shade tree mechanic can do.

It may be just me, but when you first start the engine and it is at idle, you can hear a slight knock that seems to be slower than engine rpm. Others please chime in on your opinion. If it is then that would point to the valve train.

This also sounds like some of the idlers or water pumps that are getting ready to part company on big trucks I used to worked on.

How to test for Rod Knock using a screwdriver - YouTube
 
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toms89

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^^ good video

@ O.P.

If you want to try and pinpoint it yourself.... fairly cheap and can be purchased from most auto parts stores.

Lisle 52500 Mechanic's Stethoscope : Amazon.com : Automotive


You never realize just how noisy all the working parts are till you listen with one of these.

Just don't touch any rotating parts or the accessory belt.. :)
 
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Naputik

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#1 spark plug heavy white deposits

I pulled plugs 1-3 all have white deposits. #1 was heavily coated while 2 + 3 where considerably less. I didn't notice any difference in performance after cleaning and maintaining same gap. .056 -- my sticker on truck said gap between .052 - .056 -- the full synthetic seemed to have lessen the knocking. Still hear it between shifts 2nd + 3rd. Upshift and downshift. Any thoughts? Still no obd 2 codes either.
 

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