Engine knock 2000 5.4 Eddie Bauer

[Naputik]

Knock is there not quite as deadening. Grasp in the dark. I regapped plugs to .052. While I was at it I did an ohm test on all cop. Passenger side all cop measured .8 driver side ranged from 1.1 to 1.3 ohms. Question is even though I'm not getting any misfire codes could the driver side cops primary winding COATING melt and cause an engine knock -- due to weak spark? I'm desperate that's why I'm pounding my head. It almost seams that if it was a rod, bearings or what have you the freakin motor would've locked up already. Any suggestions? Lastly my manual says that the ei cop should read .55 ohm

 

[toms89]

Think your grasping. Heavier weight oil may help quiet it down temporarily but it is addressing the symptom, not the problem.

Rod knock is simply too much play in the rod bearing allowing it to slap around on the crank journal. Sorta like lifting your foot off the pedals of a bicycle and slamming them back down. This of course damages the bearing and journal as it progresses. It will keep running until you have catastrophic engine failure!! Such as the rod exiting the block..

Don't take our word for it, after all we diagnosed it via the internet.

Take it some place and ask for diagnosis and estimate for repair. They should at least confirm or deny what has been said here.

I wish you the best of luck!!

 

[Swetrid]

Definitely is rod knock! It will need major repairs/ engine. Modular are great engines unless you run low on oil or lack of maintenance.

 

[mc0311grunt]

Rod knock. Heavier weight oil will do nothing but help silence a big problem. The problem is still going to be there. Not many cars run forever with a rod knock. Many different things could have caused this knock. The way the truck is driven, bad electrical, detonation, etc etc.