I haven't done anything to the truck since I bought except for having a glasspack welded on. I'll pick up a mechanic stethoscope tomorrow and go from there. Thanks one and all for your assistance. Let me ask you this what it be just best to pull the valve cover on the offending head? And if it is a valve, lifter and such is it something I can do with out pulling the heads off?
Engine knock 2000 5.4 Eddie Bauer
- Thread starter Naputik
- Start date
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Exp05_intake
Active Member
i have a similar problem checked the lifters everything even change the timing chain it end up been the catalytic converter
I would do the stethoscope before I pull the valve cover to determine it is in the valve train. Its a bit of a pain to remove and once you break the seal it may be more leak prone. Add cats to list of things to listen to.
You may need helper to rev motor to point of knocking while you are listening at key areas.
If it appears to be coming from valve train pull valve cover and you may get lucky and it is just a "lifter" or cam follower. Pulling head would not be necessary to replace. I believe the cam follower can be removed by compressing the valve spring giving access to the "lifter". The other option is to remove the cam which would be a PITA.
in deep s#!T... the knock is from the bottom end. I bought a stethescope and listened intently. Every knock up top sounds the same and almost even. I don't know why I never stuck my head underneath the damn truck, but today I did and I freakin heard the knock loud and clear! I suppose the one or some of the cramkshaft journal bearings are bad? I changed the oil last week and didn't see any metal shavings in the oil. I guess I gotta save some money for a motor. I can't just pull out this one because it's my daily driver. Only vehicle I got for my family of 8!!!! If any body here is from San Diego and may be able to help me out some how on a deal please email me [email protected] ------- btw I seafoamed the engine today and did everything seafoam.com told me to do.... and I didn't even get a puff a smoke!!! No carbon build up -- but gettin ready to blow an engine... what a freakin shame.
Sorry to hear..
More often than not it is rod knock not main bearings. Its possible it spun a bearing?! If it has not yet damaged the crank journal you could just replace the bearing. I have heard of someone dropping an oil pan and replacing rod bearings but I don't know how you would do it. If the motor was pulled you would have easy access to the crank and rods. You could even just replace crank and rod bearings and have crankshaft turned or replaced as necessary without ever removing the heads or pistons. The only problem with that is there is no guarantee on the condition of the rest of the motor.
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stamp11127
Full Access Members
Nine times out of ten you have to raise the engine to remove an oil pan. Once that is off the procedure to determine which one is at fault is opposite the video. You turn the crank so that the piston is close to TDC then tap the cap on the rod. If there is a problem you hear it just like in the video. Once you've determined the bad one you can drop the cap and check the journal and bearing.
If it was in good shape I'd plastigauge it to see if the standard bearing size would get you out of trouble. Use pop cycle sticks to roll the bearing out of the rod and the new one in.
If it was in good shape I'd plastigauge it to see if the standard bearing size would get you out of trouble. Use pop cycle sticks to roll the bearing out of the rod and the new one in.
Thanks. I will check into dropping the oil pan. I do have the common sense to pull the motor, but to be honest I am scared to find something else wrong. And if I can't do it myself in one weekend in really up the creek. Anyhow I'm thinking about just lookin for an inexpensive crate motor. Any suggestions?
S#ittyAzzLuck.. The other day I passed a vehicle who tried to whip around me after him tailing me... I punched the gas hit 76mph -- a freaking metal screeching sound for about 5 long seconds then truck died. I towed it home -- pulled the valve covers and noticed the timing chain was loose. BROKEN GUIDES. Installed new timing set. Did a tune up too. Now that mild knock I had prior to all this has increased. I should've dropped the oil-pan, but figured the knock was from the timing chain all along because whoever replaced it before I bought the truck used a bolt with just over 1/8th of thread. Any ideas? Knock is vicious. Truck still has nutz. No loss of power just that freakin knock. It comes and goes. @ idle and under load. freakin truck with an attitude. What's next?
mc0311grunt
Full Access Members
Standby for a rod to exit the pan or block. I wouldn't drive too much longer. Depending on how long before I yank this motor (should be in the next 2 weeks) to install my new one I will forgo the nitrous test ( ) and sell you my perfectly working motor for cheap. I wouldn't recommend dropping the pan and trying to change bearings. It would need machining etc etc. This is what a rod knock that you keep driving on does. These parts are out of the 86 mustang in my sig. All stock with too much timing, rod knock, and a 250 shot
( ) and sell you my perfectly working motor for cheap. I wouldn't recommend dropping the pan and trying to change bearings. It would need machining etc etc. This is what a rod knock that you keep driving on does. These parts are out of the 86 mustang in my sig. All stock with too much timing, rod knock, and a 250 shot
