R&T Babich
Member
Do you need to disconnect the trans cooler lines from the radiator?
Can't you disconnect the tubes on the side of the trans?
Can't you disconnect the tubes on the side of the trans?
Need Help Please Before I Lose My Mind
- Thread starter Lowrider3
- Start date
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I think I need to take them down because I think they will be in the way of taking the trans down
Wile E Coyote
Active Member
How is your progress on this, Lowrider?
I'm not even close. I still have to take a piece of the muffler off just to drop the trans straight down. I have 3 bolts off that were the muffler connect to the manifold. I can't get to one bolt even with a swivel tool. I think I have to remove the heat shield so I can get to it. I also can't even get the drive shaft off yet. I still have three bolts to remove from the axle and I can't even get them off. I work so much I don't even get much time with working on it and having 5 kids at home. I hope I get it done soon because it sucks only having one car when my wife uses the car to take the kids to school in the morning. And the most messed up thing is I bought this SUV from the dealership and only had the car for three months and the trans blew. And they pretty much don't care.
Wile E Coyote
Active Member
I decided to dive into my own converter R&R on my 07 this morning. I've got the driveshaft down, the sway bar down, the shifter off of the trans and am now looking at the trans cooler lines and the various things clipped to the upper trans case. Gonna drop the exhaust to get more reach at the upper trans-to-engine bolts and then drop the trans cross member. I'd like to remove the cooler lines at the trans, but it looks like I'd need to drop the pan and then the valve body to get them disconnected vs removing them at the radiator end. I drove my wife to work this morning so I'd have a parts-runner one always seems to need right in mid-project.
Wile E Coyote
Active Member
The trans is separated and the old converter is draining in a pan for core return. I compared all the flexplate to converter studs and they all seem equally spaced, so no unique orientation as far as I could tell.
What helped me get to this point was pulling both sides of the exhaust downpipes, the trans x member, the heat shields and dropping the trans down at an angle to get to the upper engine to trans bolts. I dropped the trans pan to get at the cooler line connections only to notice that they're a press-fit using 2 o-rings to seal to the case. Just remove the securing bracket then pry hard at the connections and they'll wriggle out.
At this point, getting it back together looks twice as hard, honestly.
What helped me get to this point was pulling both sides of the exhaust downpipes, the trans x member, the heat shields and dropping the trans down at an angle to get to the upper engine to trans bolts. I dropped the trans pan to get at the cooler line connections only to notice that they're a press-fit using 2 o-rings to seal to the case. Just remove the securing bracket then pry hard at the connections and they'll wriggle out.
At this point, getting it back together looks twice as hard, honestly.
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Wile E Coyote
Active Member
This is in a 20x20 attached garage with 8ft ceilings, so it's cramped and I can't get the truck high enough to lie on a creeper and roll onto my side under the truck.
Just hijacking your post, amigo for your encouragement and to shoot some pointers your way.
Just hijacking your post, amigo for your encouragement and to shoot some pointers your way.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
When you re-install the transmission, make sure the torque converter is all the way back on the input shaft. You should have to slide it forward slightly when bolting it to the flexplate. If you don't need to slide it then the converter isn't mounted correctly on the input shaft. Not corrected it will take out the trans pump and you will have a very bad day.
Cooler lines should be able to disconnect from the outside of the case. I would leave the pan on for protection. These aren't TH400's we are dealing with today. We are full of electronic razzle dazzle now.
Cooler lines should be able to disconnect from the outside of the case. I would leave the pan on for protection. These aren't TH400's we are dealing with today. We are full of electronic razzle dazzle now.
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Wile E Coyote
Active Member
I agree on the pan, I reinstalled it before the trans jack and wood blocks went under it. I also have a new front pump seal to go in prior to the new converter finding it's new home. I know to engage the stator lugs into the front pump and to line it all up before trying to mate the engine and trans.
I wanted to add some pointers.
Today, I had to pull the trans x member and unbolt the trans mount from the x member in order to get the pass side exhaust downpipe to come down. The long heat shield on that side wouldn't come down without that trans mount outta the way either.
I also left the driveshaft connected at the differential side...Just disconnected at the trans and also dropped that pillow block? that's part of the 2wd driveshaft.
Also, don't overlook those ridiculously hard to reach starter bolts...the starter must come out to separate the engine and trans. I used three (yes three) universal joints in line then a long extension poked up and over the pass side frame rail to reach the uppermost starter bolt...lord help me when it's time for it all to go back together.
I wanted to add some pointers.
Today, I had to pull the trans x member and unbolt the trans mount from the x member in order to get the pass side exhaust downpipe to come down. The long heat shield on that side wouldn't come down without that trans mount outta the way either.
I also left the driveshaft connected at the differential side...Just disconnected at the trans and also dropped that pillow block? that's part of the 2wd driveshaft.
Also, don't overlook those ridiculously hard to reach starter bolts...the starter must come out to separate the engine and trans. I used three (yes three) universal joints in line then a long extension poked up and over the pass side frame rail to reach the uppermost starter bolt...lord help me when it's time for it all to go back together.
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Wile E Coyote
Active Member
Final push to the finish today. It's all back together and driving with no "extra" parts left on the garage floor, haha. It was actually easier than I'd feared to reassemble.
Tips:
Lube the front pump seal with something that won't later clog in the trans. I used white lithium assembly grease, but I could have used plain ole Vaseline, too.
Do not use the engine to trans bolts to force the last inches tight...find why it's binding and mate the trans and engine by hand. Don't forget that the 4 converter studs that insert into the flexplate will leave a 1/2" gap until the holes are lined up. I made mating easier by making up a pair of 3" bolts (with the proper thread of course) that I cut the heads off of and created a slit on the cut end to accept a flat blade screwdriver to aid later removal. The trans rides on these bolts and helps guide the two heavy chunks together. Insert a few original bolts in neighboring holes then use the flat blade screwdriver to remove the homemade alignment bolts. Don't make these alignment bolts any longer than 3" as the top of the trans will interfere with the firewall even with the engine hanging with all it's weight unsupported.
The pass side exhaust will go back up next, but replace that long heat shield before that...the heat shield will not go back in with the exhaust or the trans x member installed. I even removed the nearmost (closest to the flange/engine) O2 sensor on the pass side in order to maneuver the exhaust in/out.
Tips:
Lube the front pump seal with something that won't later clog in the trans. I used white lithium assembly grease, but I could have used plain ole Vaseline, too.
Do not use the engine to trans bolts to force the last inches tight...find why it's binding and mate the trans and engine by hand. Don't forget that the 4 converter studs that insert into the flexplate will leave a 1/2" gap until the holes are lined up. I made mating easier by making up a pair of 3" bolts (with the proper thread of course) that I cut the heads off of and created a slit on the cut end to accept a flat blade screwdriver to aid later removal. The trans rides on these bolts and helps guide the two heavy chunks together. Insert a few original bolts in neighboring holes then use the flat blade screwdriver to remove the homemade alignment bolts. Don't make these alignment bolts any longer than 3" as the top of the trans will interfere with the firewall even with the engine hanging with all it's weight unsupported.
The pass side exhaust will go back up next, but replace that long heat shield before that...the heat shield will not go back in with the exhaust or the trans x member installed. I even removed the nearmost (closest to the flange/engine) O2 sensor on the pass side in order to maneuver the exhaust in/out.
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