Paint Bubbling, We need EVERYONE to register a complaint! READ FORDS RESPONSE!!!

[Plati]

from the Ford 2016 warranty ... "The extended warranty coverage only applies if a body sheet metal panel becomes perforated due to corrosion during normal use due to a manufacturing defect in factory-supplied materials or factory workmanship. If aluminum body panels have corrosion or rust damage, and the damage is not the result of abnormal usage, vehicle accident, customer actions and/or extreme environmental conditions, the corrosion or rust damage repairs are covered for 5 years, unlimited miles."

Those 2 sentences are separate and distinct. The first sentence is not a precondition of the second sentence.

No offense MrWizard but you aren't a practicing lawyer are you? You seem to be making a legal case is why I point that out. Can you cite a legal precedent for your analysis?

 

[theoldwizard1]

No offense MrWizard but you aren't a practicing lawyer are you? You seem to be making a legal case is why I point that out. Can you cite a legal precedent for your analysis?

Go back about 4 or 5 pages in this thread. I post the same statement. One reader who had been denied paint repair on his 2016 stuck the warranty in front of the body shop managers nose and his was response was "Wow ! They changed that !!" Yes, the damaged paint was repaired.

 

[mjp2]

Took some time over the weekend to strip the bubbling paint and see what was going on underneath. My thinking was I'd sand things smooth, prime, and then either paint or put a piece of vinyl wrap over the rear hatch. Exact color match isn't a huge concern for me as even a bad match would look better than the bubbling paint.

The metal under the paint was far worse than I anticipated. An attempt to sand to a smooth surface would end up making holes in the metal. Speaking of holes, I did find one.

Paint and wrap would both look pretty horrible over the resulting surface. I primed the hatch for now and will roll a few coats of white bedliner over it when the weather permits.

Figured I'd post some pics for anyone interested. The job itself was easy and the interior comes apart without issue, allowing quick access for unplugging and removing of the bolted-on stuff (handle, chrome trim with lights and camera, etc.).



Nice little hole there in the center of the pic.


First coat of primer. Porous like whoa.


Other side of the license plate area isn't any better after 1 coat of primer.


I got 3 coats of primer sprayed before real life needed my attention again. Even just primed it looks better than it did.

 

[theoldwizard1]

It is aluminum. You should used zinc chromate or self-etching primer.

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

Amazing.

This thread is still active after 7+ years - with 48 pages.

A testament to Ford’s poor quality involving aluminum body panels on the Expedition (and other models) - and their refusal to determine the root cause and fix it.

 

[Eric Mowrer]

OK … the one year follow-up report. This is the picture from this morning. I never even washed this BEATER over the past year, sat outside the whole time, drove all winter etc. Plenty of salt here in WNY. There is absolutely ZERO difference from last year, no corrosion. This is because the raw aluminum instantly forms a protective layer of aluminum oxide (read that in a book). The only corrosion is an artifact of from when it was coated with paint and it corroded UNDER the OEM paint. Its looks so good I plan to expand the area of raw aluminum, may even have to zap the sticker. TFF

View attachment 30100
View attachment 30101

kind of Obstruction of Corrosion ...

$400MIL of unpainted aluminum in salt water.

 

[mjp2]

It is aluminum. You should used zinc chromate or self-etching primer.

I had a can of exactly that but my ******** managed to drop it while moving the shelf it was sitting on and the can punctured. Ended up using some Rustoleum aluminum-specific primer instead.

 

[fischer5]

I am now into two years on my Hatch (2011 Expedition Ltd. EL) after having it completely stripped bringing it to a Powder Coating Shop.
No signs on any reoccurring bubbles or damages. If the Dealer does happen to repaint it, it will likely comeback again due to the contamination in the metal and prep work that needs to be done . My hood is now bubbled and I decided to just buy a bug shield for now to hide it. I am considering buying a pre-painted steel hood IMO Powder coating is the only way to go and Ford and other mfgs should consider this rather then paint.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I had one independent body shop owner tell me that his procedure for repainting the hatch is the best.

• Remove the hatch from the vehicle.
• Remove all trim inside and out.
• Sand and fill all hole/divots. Sand blast the inside of the shell.
• Wipe down the inside and outside with solvent and a tack rag.
• Prime the inside and outside with zinc chromate aluminum primer.
• Paint and clear coat.

The process take 2 to 3 days because of the amount of labor and drying/curing time of the materials involved.

 

[Flexpedition]

I am considering buying a pre-painted steel hood

Please keep this thread updated. I've seen posts and links and webpages listing steel hoods, manufacturer names and part numbers, but have yet to see a user/owner submitted photo of one actually received. Lots of guys wanting to order, planning to order, thinking about it, etc.

Me, I've got no corrosion (hood nor hatch) on my 2008 bought new in 07. Would like to see a mild/low rise steel cowl welded onto a hood. Fiberglass'ing something to aluminum just didn't appeal to me.