Replacing coil packs

[roccaas]

I've had three of the eight coil packs go bad (2003 w/4.6L @121,000 miles).

More will go bad soon. I don't have a code reader, so can I listen carefully with my stethoscope to determine which cylinder is not firing?

What is involved in pulling the coil pack? Does it just lift off of the plug?

Thanks

 

[Mikes05expy]

After you unplug it there's one 7mm bolt and then just pull it out, it should come out fairly easy.

Sent from my Bag Phone using Tapatalk

 

[Jump6pack]

They are not hard to do, the rear ones are a little reach. If they are bad, you should be getting a code on the CEL, I got an auto parts store to read the code. I got a code for the #3 bad, swapped packs off of 2 and 3, got a code for 2 being bad (auto parts guy was looking at me funny when he told me the code, thought I was happy there was a problem, I was happy because I had the prob diagnosed!) and just replaced that one.

Good luck

Jim

 

[1997SCEBFEX]

+1 on above replies.
you can also ohm them out to check the resistance; however if cel is on, generally not a false positive.

PanHandler.

 

[Hamfisted]

I've had three of the eight coil packs go bad (2003 w/4.6L @121,000 miles).

More will go bad soon. I don't have a code reader, so can I listen carefully with my stethoscope to determine which cylinder is not firing?

What is involved in pulling the coil pack? Does it just lift off of the plug?

Thanks

I would invest in a good code reader first of all. Take a look at the Actron CP9575 Auto Scanner Trilingual OBDII and CAN Scan Tool : Amazon.com : Automotive. It'll pay for itself the first time you use it. Today, troubleshooting without one is foolish.


-Mike

 

[MarkEMS3]

Does anyone have suggestions for tool usage on 3 & 4, my 1 and 2 died over past few months, now getting the 3 & 4 code, so this time I'm doing both since last time I did one at a time about 2 months apart and the rear ones are a pain in the....

 

[FordandPolaris]

Not to discount Hamfisted's post, but it is even cheaper to just use the reader that auto part stores have available for free as was previously mentioned. Just ask them to borrow it (or to help you out if you are unsure of the process) and they will ask for your driver's license as collateral so you can go out in the parking lot and use it.

MarkEMS3 I guess if I understand your question right, a spark plug socket, 3/8's drive extensions, a couple of universal joints and ratchet of course should work fine. Just takes a little creativity. I am hoping you aren't down all 4 cylinders on the one bank, that must run terrible! I think you meant that you are down just 3 & 4, but when I read that the first time I was thinking 1, 2, 3, and 4 were all out. That would not be good...

 

[Captain Morgan]

Before you fork over the money on a replacement COP clean the pins with some sandpaper etc and make sure you have a clean and tight mechanical & electrical connection.



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[ELVATO]

Take a 7mm, and take them out. I use a 1/4" drive ratchet, and a small extension for the driver's side. It helps to take out the air intake.

Either way, take out the COPs. Check the boots and make sure they are not cracked or brittle. If they are, you can buy replacement boots. You can take them off, and clean the gunk in the springs. Apply fresh dab of dielectric grease, and pop them back on. Also, try Captain Morgan's suggestions.

 

[buildingdoc]

Not to discount what FordandPolaris said, but I have an Actron scanner (even more low budget than what Hamfisted suggested. Had to buy it because Auto parts stores wont scan vehicles due to state law here in CA. and if my truck is running crappy, I would rather scan it at home to see a potential problem than having it blow up on the way to get a scan.