TSB for replacing the blower control module?

[David1]

Hello,
Twice my 2010 EL limited with auto dual zone, stopped blowing completely. When I uplugged the HBCM connector, I found wire black w/ white tracer pin melted in the connector and the wire to hot to hold when on high. Anyone have the part numbers for the connector, module, and blower. I assume the blower motor will fry next module eventually ?
Thanks
David

 

[David1]

Hello,
Twice my 2010 EL limited with auto dual zone, stopped blowing completely. When I uplugged the HBCM connector, I found wire black w/ white tracer pin melted in the connector and the wire to hot to hold when on high. Anyone have the part numbers for the connector, module, and blower. I assume the blower motor will fry next module eventually ?
Thanks
David

All Motorcraft, rock auto:
Repair connector WPT688 $38
Heater Blower Control Module YH1829 $40
Blower motor MM1094 $88

 

[Mkt1]

Hello,
I have a 2007 Navigator. I just replaced the blower motor resistor and still got nothing. Any thoughts???

 

[David1]

If the resister was melted, and you replaced the pigtail. Check for power, then I would assume the blower. That is what is drawing the current causing the wire to heat. Can always jump 12V direct to the blower see if it runs and if your wires get hot.

 

[Lagunarich562]

Incredibly easy to replace the part. I paid full price for mine at the local dealer in Irvine. $134. Still cheaper than taking it anywhere.

1. remove everything out of your glovebox(so it doesn't fall on the floor)
2. push both tabs on each side of the glove box and pull it down so that it hangs upside down. This gives you access to the control module.
3. get an 8mm socket. The smaller the ratchet the easier to fit. You'll need an extension.
4. disconnect the connector by reaching the floor, underneath the dash, pushing the tab in, and pulling connector down.
5. use 8mm socket to remove the two screws (silver in color, see pic) on each side of the module. You can only see left one, the other you'll have to unscrew by feel only.
6. remove module and replace with new one. reverse order the steps above.
7. turn on car and test.

 

[MikeX]

Same boat for me, HVAC blows in front but I can't control the speed. I got a blower motor resistor (non OEM) it worked but not at the high speed.

I'm thinking I need an OEM resistor. The OEM resistor I found online looked similar but with only one thin black sheet of metal. The one in my expedition looks just like the pic above.

Do you guys recommend taking the current resistor I have into a dealership and ordering from them. I'm a bad combination of cheap and not good with cars.

2007 Expedition Limited

 

[botts]

All Motorcraft, rock auto:
Repair connector WPT688 $38
Heater Blower Control Module YH1829 $40
Blower motor MM1094 $88

I would add a WPT900 to that list.

The issue isn't likely that the blower motor is drawing too much power, but that the ground is subpar, and creating resistance which is causing the heat issues. Much like the crappy wiring in the A/C seats, you'll note on the replacement for that connector, the grounding is significantly beefed up.

Replacing the HBCM, motor, and splicing in a new connector will not fix the issue that the ground is subpar.

In fact, I would try replacing the ground with the WPT900 before I purchased the WPT688, unless you notice clear heat damage on the WPT688. If the issue persists after installing the WPT900 as per the TSB, my next troubleshooting step would be to replace the WPT688, if that fails, I would purchase a new HBCM, my last step would be the blower motor.

If you're going to spend the money on the HBCM, do the WPT900 too. You wouldn't want to burn out another HBCM before identifying and resolving the potential root cause (bad ground).

Here's a photo of the WPT900, as you can see, if attaches inline on the C297 ground line and adds a beefy ground to the frame.

 

[mbed]

A

I would add a WPT900 to that list.

The issue isn't likely that the blower motor is drawing too much power, but that the ground is subpar, and creating resistance which is causing the heat issues. Much like the crappy wiring in the A/C seats, you'll note on the replacement for that connector, the grounding is significantly beefed up.

Replacing the HBCM, motor, and splicing in a new connector will not fix the issue that the ground is subpar.

In fact, I would try replacing the ground with the WPT900 before I purchased the WPT688, unless you notice clear heat damage on the WPT688. If the issue persists after installing the WPT900 as per the TSB, my next troubleshooting step would be to replace the WPT688, if that fails, I would purchase a new HBCM, my last step would be the blower motor.

If you're going to spend the money on the HBCM, do the WPT900 too. You wouldn't want to burn out another HBCM before identifying and resolving the potential root cause (bad ground).

Here's a photo of the WPT900, as you can see, if attaches inline on the C297 ground line and adds a beefy ground to the frame.

Anyone know the gauge of the wires for the WPT900? Please let me know...thanks!

 

[ExpeditionAndy]

A

Anyone know the gauge of the wires for the WPT900? Please let me know...thanks!

I'm guessing its either 12 or 10 gauge.

 

[David1]

I considered the ground, but since everything lasted 6 yrs and 115K miles I figured factory setup was good on mine. I disagree that as the blower ages it won't drawal more current. New Blower was even stickered for amp drawal.
Just IMO