Up date to the skipping

[toms89]

I am not familiar with your previous post off hand. Not sure why your certain that one specific cylinder is not getting fuel but if this is truly the case it has to be bad injector, connector, wiring or driver (ecu).

Mechanic stethescope on injector will tell you if its working or not. They are very loud when working. This will not tell you flow rate or pattern though.

 

[SkyJumper]

2 areas I would suggest you go to.

1st- do a psi check of the fuel rail. This will tell you if your supply is adequate to your demand.

2nd- Do a compression test on each cylinder, not just cylinder 4, all of them. If you do one, you do all.

Those two areas will either tell you alot, or it will tell yo to stay away from that part of the equation.

Only areas left would be spark and air.

Have you reset the CEL's after you did the wire repair and COP and plug exchange? If so, what was your new or same CEL codes?

 

[Tommy695]

I am not familiar with your previous post off hand. Not sure why your certain that one specific cylinder is not getting fuel but if this is truly the case it has to be bad injector, connector, wiring or driver (ecu).

Mechanic stethescope on injector will tell you if its working or not. They are very loud when working. This will not tell you flow rate or pattern though.

I'm not 100% certain that it's #4 cylinder that's just what the scanners keep saying. Misfire on #4 is what it says. Only thing I can think of is the injector plug on the wiring harness end is bad or something. Only reason I don't understand it is because it was running fine until I did the tune up on it. It has to be something stupid right in front of me that I'm not seeing just wanted to see what anyone's suggestions were.

 

[SkyJumper]

What did you do when you did a tune-up. Meaning what was everything you did in doing this? Thanks

 

[K5rnt]

Check the fuel pressure. Sounds just like the problem I had with my wife's 99 EB.
It was loosing fuel pressure under load. The problem was the little piece of rubber hose that connects the fuel pump to the metal line inside the tank was cracked and leaking. The truck would also loose pressure if it set awhile like over night and it would have to crank like 5 to 10 seconds before it would get gas and start.

 

[Tommy695]

What did you do when you did a tune-up. Meaning what was everything you did in doing this? Thanks

I changed the air filter, plugs, coil packs, and oil and filter. The only thing is I didn't change #4 the same day. I changed it a few days later because I didn't have time to finish that day because it took a lot longer than I thought it would to do that but it ran fine for those few days until I did change the #4 plug and pack and after that it has done nothing but run me crazy trying to figure it out. I don't have a lot of Special tools or a bunch of money to pay someone to check everything so I'm trying to fix it myself. I just dont see how it went from running do good to crap by changing one plug and coil pack.

 

[K5rnt]

Pack may not be seated good. Or have a bad connection at the connector.

 

[SkyJumper]

OK, so lets look at this another way then since this happened after you installed the #4 plug after the rest on another day.

First off, recheck the pvc tube and make sure the PVC is seated in the valve cover. That is easy to pull out or bend over sideways when working in that area as it is under the heater core hoses and engine management wiring harnesses. Then check to see if you reinstalled the COP pigtails to the right COP, see if you have a pigtail going to the wrong cylinder. Next, check the wiring harness that leads under the plastic cover that covers the starter relay and the distribution boxes. That is located at the back right hand (P/S) firewall just above to the right of cylinder 4. Check to see if you possibly scared or cut or dislodged a wire there. Check everything and anything in that area of cylinder #4. Something is a miss that is causing this and it may have nothing to do with the COP or plug or cylinder 4 at all. It would be easy to disconnect or cut or short something out in such tight places that are surrounded by other crap. Also ensure that the ground is connected to the firewall just above cylinder 4.

 

[K5rnt]

Also may want to check the electrical connector going to the #4 injector. It's possible it got unplugged when you were changing the plug or COP

 

[Tommy695]

OK, so lets look at this another way then since this happened after you installed the #4 plug after the rest on another day.

First off, recheck the pvc tube and make sure the PVC is seated in the valve cover. That is easy to pull out or bend over sideways when working in that area as it is under the heater core hoses and engine management wiring harnesses. Then check to see if you reinstalled the COP pigtails to the right COP, see if you have a pigtail going to the wrong cylinder. Next, check the wiring harness that leads under the plastic cover that covers the starter relay and the distribution boxes. That is located at the back right hand (P/S) firewall just above to the right of cylinder 4. Check to see if you possibly scared or cut or dislodged a wire there. Check everything and anything in that area of cylinder #4. Something is a miss that is causing this and it may have nothing to do with the COP or plug or cylinder 4 at all. It would be easy to disconnect or cut or short something out in such tight places that are surrounded by other crap. Also ensure that the ground is connected to the firewall just above cylinder 4.

Ok so let me ask you this. Why would all the other plugs be wet like they're getting plenty of gas to em but the #4 is staying dry. I had another guy tell me that when it started misfiring on that cylinder that the computer may have cut the gas off to that injector. Is that something that could happen and if so how do you get it to reset. I've called the ford dealerships around were I live and all they want to do is hook it up to their machines and charge your out the butt to do it. I just went out and rechecked all the wires and hoses and the PVC valve. It all looks good from what I can tell. I was told it could be the egr system so I changed the valve and the pressure sensor and that didn't change a thing except about 2 miles to gallon on my average.