Cold air mod

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jayplank

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Can someone tell me how to do the cold air mod on a 2000 expedition 5.4
 

stamp11127

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You basically source "cold" air from outside the engine bay - like the factory unit. If you don't you end up with a "hot air intake" which is useless but "sounds" like you have more power.

To me it is a waste of money unless you have other mods that require the increased air flow potential.
 

Bowesmobile

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You basically source "cold" air from outside the engine bay - like the factory unit. If you don't you end up with a "hot air intake" which is useless but "sounds" like you have more power.

To me it is a waste of money unless you have other mods that require the increased air flow potential.

I don't totally agree Stamp. Every little bit helps. These motors are not like the older Ford motors that sacrifice low end torque for more HP at a higher RPM with intake mods like this. It has been shown on the dyno that the more air you give the 4.6L or the 5.4L for that matter, the more HP and torque you get across the the RPM range. So from what I'm seeing being reported by truck magazines is the more air you allow to flow through the modular motors, the more HP and torque you get across the whole RPM range.
 

stamp11127

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I agree with your logic, but what I've seen so far is nothing but a pipe with a K&N air filter sitting in a hot engine bay. I know of only one individual that has gone the extra steps to isolate the intake from the heat. The rest of them think they have more power since they can now hear it.

To me the cost vs the "gain" isn't worth it unless it is part of a package to really improve performance. I also keep in mind these are boats and will only go so fast so I drive accordingly.

What are the documented hp/torque figures after the "upgrade"? I ask just for a comparison - not meaning to sound like an ass.

If I want to go fast again I'll get an H2 750 Kawasaki 2 stroke and scare the crap out of myself, or it will live up to its nickname "the widow maker".
 

Bowesmobile

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You are correct. It needs to be sealed from the engine bay. Any heat from the motor getting into the intake air corrupts any power gains you may get. I believe in doing the Gotts mod with a low restriction air filter like a K&N oiled filter. Now with that being said, make sure you clean the MAF every other oil change.

What I have seen with these mods is only a 5-7HP gain and a 2-3ft.lb. torque gain. I know there are better ways. But it comes more into play as you add more mods to your motor.

These are boats. They can be more powerful boats that can tow and climb and hang with lighter boats. LOL!

Personally I would have a Miata with a stroked out 347 and t-5 called skipping stone...
 
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stamp11127

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I hear ya on the Miata, I have a little Z3 that I can get into trouble with. BMW built a concept car with the 12 cylinder in it. I'm sure the engineers had fun...

Back when I was a younger fool in the early 70's, I rode a friends slightly modified H2 - larger carbs and a set of chambers - 10.49 in the 1/4 on white gas. Port and polish job it would have been even quicker. This was 1970's technology, don't dare and try to corner with this thing and hold on for dear life on the straights. You either got off and stayed off or had the grin....then I moved on to the Kawai Z1. That is another chapter in "hold on & grin".

I know enough to stay off of the crotch rockets of today. There are old bikers and are bold bikers, but there aren't any old - bold bikers.
 

Yudaman

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Now with that being said, make sure you clean the MAF every other oil change.

Best advice for anyone using an oiled filter like a K&N.
I prefer to stick with generic paper filters. They flow more air than the engine will ever need, and they don't plug the MAF.

As far as the CAI topic, waste of money. How can it truly be a "cold" air intake when you suck hot air from the engine bay? Hot air = thinner air = less oxygen = less HP. Might as well finish the trifecta of fail and install a throttle body spacer.
 
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