Air conditioning issue

[Gruz7]

So the warmer months are rolling in and I'm looking to diagnose my air conditioning issues... I bought this 2006 several months ago now and have put about 11k miles on it and never needed to use AC until now so I figure I'll try and fix the issue now.
AC hasn't worked since I bought the truck last September and it doesn't really even make any noise when I press the (A/C) button on the dash with maximum AC turned on (should also mention I have manual controls). When I have it on full blast the compressor does not spin either I was told that a simple recharge could fix all the AC issues I'm experiencing and that the $30 can of refrigerant with a gauge that I just ordered is all I will need... Not quite sure if I charge on the high or low side or which is which because I've never looked into this issue until now.. Anyone with any AC advice/experience would be a big help
Thanks
Jared


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[Hamfisted]

Charge on the LOW side. The adapter should only fit the LOW side service port anyway. The larger line is the LOW side. Get the service can with the UV dye in it so you can see any leaks with a LED black light. With the compressor running the LOW side pressure should be 35-40 psi.


-Mike

 

[Gruz7]

Charge on the LOW side. The adapter should only fit the LOW side service port anyway. The larger line is the LOW side. Get the service can with the UV dye in it so you can see any leaks with a LED black light. With the compressor running the LOW side pressure should be 35-40 psi.


-Mike

Ok and also if I put an entire 20oz can of r134a in will it be enough to fully charge the system? And make the compressor turn back on?


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[stamp11127]

I have a couple of questions for you:
1) Who says / proved the system is low on refrigerant?
2) Who proved the fuse for the AC isn't blown?
3) Who proved that the compressor circuit isn't at fault and the clutch coil hasn't failed?
4) Who proved the high or low pressure switches haven't failed?

Adding a can of 134a is tossing parts at your problem. Since you are new to this I suggest reading up on how they work. Most Expy's are around 54 oz of r134a with front and rear AC. These are also sealed systems and normally don't leak over long periods unless an o-ring has failed or a component has a pinhole leak.

A/C 101
Section 609 Main

Towards the bottom are links to the study material - which should still be free. Read up on this and then we can talk shop diagnosis. (Techno speak)

 

[Gruz7]

I have a couple of questions for you:
1) Who says / proved the system is low on refrigerant?
2) Who proved the fuse for the AC isn't blown?
3) Who proved that the compressor circuit isn't at fault and the clutch coil hasn't failed?
4) Who proved the high or low pressure switches haven't failed?

Adding a can of 134a is tossing parts at your problem. Since you are new to this I suggest reading up on how they work. Most Expy's are around 54 oz of r134a with front and rear AC. These are also sealed systems and normally don't leak over long periods unless an o-ring has failed or a component has a pinhole leak.

A/C 101
Section 609 Main

Towards the bottom are links to the study material - which should still be free. Read up on this and then we can talk shop diagnosis. (Techno speak)

I read up the best I could on the link you send and I have previously watched a few videos and read the entire section in my 06's service manual but I can answer at least 2 of your points as of now.. A buddy of mine had the same issue on his f150... I mean the exact same symptoms and a 20oz can if freon brought his AC back to life and made the compressor kick on again (my reason for thinking I could maybe have the same luck) and also I just checked all dudes that are tied into any part of the air conditioning system and they all look good. As for clutch coils and the pressure switches... I don't exactly know where to start. Would 100x rather solve this myself with the help from you guys in the forum than have to pay a shop to do so.


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[stamp11127]

There are a few things that will keep the compressor from running. Until you get the parameters on your system you don't know why it isn't turning on. Could it be low or out of refrigerant? Yes. A bad low pressure switch will also keep the compressor from running along with a blown fuse, bad high pressure switch, break in the harness to the compressor and so on.

Where do you start? First thing is check the easy stuff - fuse(s) and pressures. Borrow or rent a good gauge set from your local auto parts store. Even though the system isn't running you can read the static pressure on it. That is when the low and high side balances out after sitting for a few hours, it is also a general guideline on the amount of refrigerant the system contains based on the ambient temperature.

 

[Gruz7]

Well today my buddy with a 2007 Expedition Eddie came by wanting help recharge his AC (oddly enough) lol... So we charged his back up to proper range then put the rest of the can of freon in my truck and what do you even though it didn't get up to the green range the little tiny bit of r134a freon I put in there made the compressor kick on and off a few times (before I shut off the truck) ...the way I see it is I guess I can rule a bad compressor out at this point? And see if I can find a leak and seal it then refill the system?


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[stamp11127]

All you have done is get the low pressure switch to close so that the compressor engages. You do not know the high and low side pressures, so you don't know the condition of the compressor at this point.

 

[Gruz7]

All you have done is get the low pressure switch to close so that the compressor engages. You do not know the high and low side pressures, so you don't know the condition of the compressor at this point.

Oh.. Ok so to check the high side I have to do what you mentioned earlier?


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[stamp11127]

Yes, what I stated in reply #6.

 

[Gruz7]

So today (stamp you're going to be frustrated at me for doing this) a buddy of mine had some cans left over of some r134a and some leak sealer... I figured I'd buy another can of my own to be sure I have enough to fill the system and went ahead and added the refrigerant to the low side as needed. Used a gauge that had the temp on it and brought it right in the center where it held no problem.. Checked inside and the AC was freezing cold, (today it is 94° over here) and it seems to be staying that way so far.
I am not hearing any real squealing or buzzing or knocking in the AC system and as I read on other forums that's a good sign.
I read also on other forums that an interval hissing sound in the dash when the car is running for about 10 seconds per interval is mostly normal, I am getting that sound and the air is still nice and cold.
Also when the truck is shut off I hear the system possibly depressurizing by a slight click noise then a quiet hiss sound over a few times where it eventually stops.

As I read... this all seems normal and relatively good but I could just looking too much at the glass half full.
Would like to know what you guys think or what you guys from personal experience with charging up the AC system in an expy. Are these symptoms normal or should I continue to take further action and check more options out?

Edit: hear about possibly cleaning condenser and evaporators?


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[stamp11127]

I'll be impressed when you can get 35 degrees on the evaporator when it is 94 out.
I'm not frustrated, I usually get a full class of students that don't want to listen and only want to do things their way. Fine with me, saves me going to the movies and paying for the entertainment. Once they have dug themselves deeply into a hole I enjoy watching them trying get themselves out of their problem.
There are two ways you can go around the block, the short way and the long way. I teach the short way, they prefer the long & scenic route. Either way they get there.

"How come this isn't working" and my reply is - "Beats me, you figure it out since you didn't listen and wire it the way we went over in class. And don't catch the place on fire."

 

[Gruz7]

I'll be impressed when you can get 35 degrees on the evaporator when it is 94 out.

Good point, and pardon my use of exaggeration just found myself excited/surprised to have cold air coming out of the vents


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[stamp11127]

The whole point of doing the ac correctly is to have the refrigerant go through the "state change" in the evaporator, not slightly before or slightly after.
The state change is when it changes from a liquid to a gas by absorbing the heat in the cabin as air is blown over the evaporator.

 

[Gruz7]

The whole point of doing the ac correctly is to have the refrigerant go through the "state change" in the evaporator, not slightly before or slightly after.

The state change is when it changes from a liquid to a gas by absorbing the heat in the cabin as air is blown over the evaporator.

Slightly read about that online and think I might remember something about it in the article you attached. But how do I know if it does go through this "state change" in the evaporator at the right time?
*I assume that just having cold air doesn't mean that is necessarily operating normally


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[stamp11127]

Outside ambient temp, low side pressure, high side pressure and the amount of refrigerant in the system in ounces.

If the lines to/from the evaporator are icing up then you can be assured the system isn't setup correctly.

 

[Gruz7]

Outside ambient temp, low side pressure, high side pressure and the amount of refrigerant in the system in ounces.

If the lines to/from the evaporator are icing up then you can be assured the system isn't setup correctly.

Ok have all those besides high press. so I'll get that tomorrow if I can find a gauge to use to measure it somewhere... I get new readings and find out if they are accurate/make sense


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[stamp11127]

You really don't have those as you get them when you are taking the readings. They are all taken at the same time. For instance, tomorrow if you read the pressures at 10:00 am and it is 85 out, you will record the low and high pressures. As the ambient temp changes so will the pressures.

Go back to the link and read the manual.

 

[tomm5151]

New Member here,


Mr. Stamp11127


Trying to Diag AC on a 06. Working fine one day, shut it down, hot air on every restart since.

Initial readings on PCM PID check
ACCLT_ALW =NO, ACCS =OFF ACP (OPEN(OK)) WAC/ACCR OFF.

Performed some more research
Purchased some stuff including Manifold Set

Intial Readings 0 = Low side 0 = high side

Added leak dye and 15oz of R134a

Second PCM PID Readings

ACCLT_ALW =YES, ACCS =OFF/ON cycles with wac/accr ACP (OPEN(OK)) WAC/ACCR cycles on/off

Compressor clutch activates and cycles

Added another 15oz of R134a

ACCLT_ALW =YES, ACCS =ON ACP (OPEN(OK)) WAC/ACCR =ON WAC_F= NO FAULT AAT = 80

No leaks detected with UV light. At least that I can locate.

Compressor clutch activates, forgot to check if it cycles.

Did some more research


EATC self check on instrument panel picture attached.
Could not find display as a code, so assumed it was NO CODE, and start to check by symptoms.


Final Pressure readings

25 = Low Side 100 = high side


Any Hints or suggestions you may have would be appreciated sir?

Not a mechanic, DIY hopeful, simple ELM device only and a manifold set.
Hoping it is something I can diagnose and replace. Fearing it may be something
major??

 

[tomm5151]

Image of final ELM readout