Will a Performance Tuner fix this issue?

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AZ59apacheguy

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So I had a thread last summer involving my 2000 Expy loosing a TON of power when it air temps here in AZ get over 100F. At that time I posted that my mechanic found a Ford tech note stating that when the Intake Air Temp Sensor senses temps above 124F the computer retards the timing so " Detonation " does not occur. The fix was an update to the ECM and making sure that the fender well plugs were present behind the Coolant Overflow tank. All those things were done, and to be honest it did help, but it did not totally resolve the issue. When it gets super hot here, and with the A/C on, I still get a GREAT loss of power, it's very, very frusting. It's a rebuilt 5.4L, New plugs, COP's and Injectors. It runs like a scalded dog with any temp below 100F.

So after a looooong winded intro, here is my question: Will a Performance Programmer Tune eliminate ( overwrite ) the IAT sensor 124F Retard Timing issue? I'm not looking for a ton of added power or fuel economy ( I feel I get good power and economy now ), I just this vehicle more usable in hot weather. Thanks for your time
 

98EXPnSRQ

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My SCT programmer doesn't have any IAT options. It does allow you to add or subtract degrees of timing at different rpm bands. I haven't messed with those settings so I can't say how well it works, but it's there.
 

Habbibie

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Your best bet is to call a tunning shop and ask them the same question you just asked, IMO this is by far the easiest and quickest way to get a confirmed answer.
 

docraymund

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Assuming that your engine has good compression and no trans slippage, you can install an aftermarket air intake system to improve air flow to the engine. Also an exhaust cat back system can boost your trucks performance.
 

0xowner

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have you asked the dealer in AZ ?

not much of the population in the US or dealer markets operate under this high temp, but I hope that the local "hot" dealers knew best, right?
 
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AZ59apacheguy

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Your best bet is to call a tunning shop and ask them the same question you just asked, IMO this is by far the easiest and quickest way to get a confirmed answer.



Hi, thanks for all the great responses. I have talked to someone at SCT and the sales person I talked to said I might need to have a special tune written up to eliminate my issue ( he was just a saleman and I don't think he knew too much about the tunes themselves ).
 
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AZ59apacheguy

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Assuming that your engine has good compression and no trans slippage, you can install an aftermarket air intake system to improve air flow to the engine. Also an exhaust cat back system can boost your trucks performance.

Isn't the stock intake a " Cold Air Intake "? It pulls cooler air from the fender well and not the hot engine bay. The Cold Air Intakes I have seen for sale have the air filter exposed to the engine bay drawing in hot air. Am I wrong about this? What makes the aftermarket intake better than stock other than offering a more free flowing air filter??
 
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AZ59apacheguy

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Hi. I did talk to a local dealer about this issue and they said what I did do was the fix. I have thought of some other things that might help:
1. I was thinking about wrapping the entire Air Intake with a thermal heat wrap ( the kind you wrap headers in ), better isolating the intake from engine compartment heat.
2. Going to an electric fan setup
3. Just buying a programmer and see what happens
 

Habbibie

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Get a snorkel type of intake and be over with it. Doesn't get any cooler than that.
 

rtbrjason

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The stock intake (with Gotts mod) is your best bet. My truck sees IATs that are within a few degrees of ambient temps.

Do you notice a loud jet engine like noise when you're loosing power? I was having a similar issue in the western NY area in the summer. No power at all with any real heat.

In my case, it was the clutch fan running overtime due to a heavy duty fan clutch. I switched to an electric fan setup and problem solved.
 
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AZ59apacheguy

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The stock intake (with Gotts mod) is your best bet. My truck sees IATs that are within a few degrees of ambient temps.

Do you notice a loud jet engine like noise when you're loosing power? I was having a similar issue in the western NY area in the summer. No power at all with any real heat.

In my case, it was the clutch fan running overtime due to a heavy duty fan clutch. I switched to an electric fan setup and problem solved.

Hi, thanks for the reply. My symptoms are exactly the same as yours. I did have a GOTT's at one time and removed it to put the stock back on; I can re-install it. I just got done ordering dual 16" fans and a Hayden Fan controller from Amazon. Do you think it's best to have the two fans run together, both being controlled by the thermal probe in the radiator. Or should I have one controlled by the radiator and one by the A/C clutch?
 

rtbrjason

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Hi, thanks for the reply. My symptoms are exactly the same as yours. I did have a GOTT's at one time and removed it to put the stock back on; I can re-install it. I just got done ordering dual 16" fans and a Hayden Fan controller from Amazon. Do you think it's best to have the two fans run together, both being controlled by the thermal probe in the radiator. Or should I have one controlled by the radiator and one by the A/C clutch?

I went with a Ford Windstar fan from a junk yard for a few dollars. It's an almost perfect fit for the existing mounting so it was really easy to attach. It's got one slightly larger fan and then a smaller. I set it up so that the larger fan is controlled by the a temperature probe from a controller next to the upper rad hose. I also have that fan coming on with the AC clutch in the summer. I installed a switch so that it doesn't kick on with the AC clutch in the winter so I could use defrost and auto temp without the fan running.

The 2nd fan is fully manually operated with a switch in the cabin. I've never needed it even on 90 plus degree days here.
 
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AZ59apacheguy

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I went with a Ford Windstar fan from a junk yard for a few dollars. It's an almost perfect fit for the existing mounting so it was really easy to attach. It's got one slightly larger fan and then a smaller. I set it up so that the larger fan is controlled by the a temperature probe from a controller next to the upper rad hose. I also have that fan coming on with the AC clutch in the summer. I installed a switch so that it doesn't kick on with the AC clutch in the winter so I could use defrost and auto temp without the fan running.

The 2nd fan is fully manually operated with a switch in the cabin. I've never needed it even on 90 plus degree days here.

Thanks for writing. I ended up ordering an Auto Cool III module form autocoolguy.com. This kit sounds sweet with soft start tech and no relays but transistors for output. Man I am excited to install this kit. Autocoolguy.com modules do it a little different than yours, they want me to monitor the outgoing temps ( lower rad hose ) from radiator going back to the engine instead of the upper rad hose. The radiator temp dictates how fast the fans run, no need to rune them full out if it's not needed. It has an a/c override and there is a pot to adjust how fast you want the fans turning when the a/c clutch engages, there is also and failsafe switch ( which turns the fans on full speed ). When you power off the truck, it runs the fans for 15sec to help with heat soak. It was expensive compared to a lot of the other controllers out there, but I have read nothing but rave reviews about BOTH the product and customer service. On that note, I spoke with Darryl ( the owner ) several times, he was very patient and answered ALL my questions. I placed and order this morning and he shipped it out 2hrs later!!! How's that for customer service!!!

Where is the best place on the vehicle to tie into the " Ignition " so the controller comes on when the ignition is turned on??
 
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