Starts, but wont shut off

[Aizen]

Hello everyone, my name is Edwin. I have a big problem with my expedition. It turns on, but when I try to shut it off it stays on. I turn the key and it stays on. I have to take a fuse out of the engine to shut it off. It all started about two weeks ago. Mansoon hit here in Phoenix and I got stuck in traffic, so I had to drive in two feet of water. I made it home fine. The next day car wouldn't start. I got a new battery and it turned on, but the gauges were going crazy. It had a short so I had a total of 5 so called mechanics take a look. Neither of which figured out the issue. One said it was my fuel pump and to get an electrical mechanic. The rest said it was my computer. Finally a 6th mechanic said to replace my alternator and looked under the dash and found my remote keyless module smelled burt and it did have a small short.
Now I replaced the alternator, new battery, and got a used remote keyless module (not sure if its supposed to be the same model#). I also changed the the little white box I think it's called the ignition starter switch. What do I do now.
Issues:
1.starts, but won't turn off
2. Drives, but I feel it has less power push gas pedal all the way down it hits 30 or 40 mph.
3. Lights inside don't turn on when I open door.
4. Ac in back passenger won't turn on just the front works.
5. I feel like something stays on the fuse box relays get very hot (don't know if its normal)
6. It shakes a little more than before.
Please help me. I would like to try and fix it myself. I am very tight on cash to take to a shop.

 

[Bedrck47]

deleted

 

[Aizen]

Welcome to the forum

First I already know you have an expedition but what we really need to know is the year and model And to be honest it makes a big difference knowing that information due to the many electrical changes Ford had made over the years

Sorry. Its a 2000 xlt 4.6 engine

 

[Bedrck47]

deleted

 

[stamp11127]

Welcome to the site.

Your so called "mechanics" aren't mechanics based on what they told you.

Relays are not supposed to get hot - warm maybe - hot no. Make sure all the fuses are the correct values and not more than what the circuit calls for or you may end up with a real Blazer.

For electrical issues you need at least a test light, a digital multimeter and the wiring diagrams for your year.

Is the check engine light on?

One of the things we try to get members of this site to do is prove a part has failed before replacing it. What tests were performed on the alternator and battery to prove you needed to replace them?

 

[Aizen]

Welcome to the site.

Your so called "mechanics" aren't mechanics based on what they told you.

Relays are not supposed to get hot - warm maybe - hot no. Make sure all the fuses are the correct values and not more than what the circuit calls for or you may end up with a real Blazer.

For electrical issues you need at least a test light, a digital multimeter and the wiring diagrams for your year.

Is the check engine light on?

One of the things we try to get members of this site to do is prove a part has failed before replacing it. What tests were performed on the alternator and battery to prove you needed to replace them?

Thank you for your help. The alternator was overcharging the battery, and the battery wouldn't get the right voltage when I put the new alternator. I was told it might be the computer I have to replace.