JExpedition07
That One Member
Looks good, worked well. I spray mine with fluid film it’s alreay got some rust underneath. I’m ok with some rust though doesn’t bother me, I’ll run it till it dies.
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2010 SSV advice
- Thread starter USMCBuckWild
- Start date
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I'm going to probably sound like a broken record because every time this comes up, I'll say the same thing: Krown Rust Control. They used to only be found in Canada but now their shops are finally making their way into the U.S. There's a Krown shop near my in-laws house in Port Huron. I have had my former Land Cruiser sprayed every year and when I traded it for my EL, the frame was perfect. Michigan truck, zero rust. It was a 1998 with nearly 300,000 miles on it and a lot of winter. Absolutely zero rust. They carefully drill holes in every single body panel and mist the interiors of the panels with their special oil. They spray inside and outside the frame, under the hood, engine compartment, literally everywhere. Then they snap plastic plugs into the holes they drilled and you're set until the next year. $129 a year is a small price to pay to keep your truck rust free. If you don't believe me that this stuff works, here's photos of my Land Cruiser just before I traded in:
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Looks new, why trade it at all?
Muddy Bean
Full Access Members
Body was rust free, but has dents, dings, scratches from trail riding. Exhaust system was leaking and muffler had blown open (truck was loud). Drivers seat was worn and torn to bits, badly. Sunroof didn't work at all, had original factory shocks and needed replaced as well as all rubber bushings. Timing belt had never been done so it was due. Windshield was cracked, fuel fill tube inner liner was coming off and closing fill tube off so you couldn't fill with gas without pump clicking off constantly, needed rear brakes and calipers, and it was the only year of the 100 series that didn't come with rear a/c. Passengers baked back there. All this and I only averaged 13-14mpg in that beast. It was time. Almost 300,000 miles...almost 20 years old, I have a growing family and I really wanted something with latch car seat anchors and more than just two airbags. If the EL gives me the reliability my Land Cruiser did, I'll be absolutely thrilled. I really am enjoying my Expedition so far.
NASCAR Mike
Full Access Members
That underside is spotless! I wonder if spraying a few cans of WD40 on everything before the winter will do the same thing.
ExpeditionAndy
Full Access Members
My dealer sold me a Ziebart package for $1000. They sprayed a coating inside all of the panels and sprayed a black coating that looks just like yours underneath on any thing that didn't move. It also came with a paint sealant protector and they put Aquapel on the windshield. I take it in once a year for the next 10 years and they reapply the coatings and reseal the paint and reapply the Aquapel on windshield. It doesn't cost me anything, normally they charge $199 a year to spray the undercoat/sound proofing, the rustproofing solution and that doesn't include the paint sealant or the Aquapel. To me it was worth it.I'm going to probably sound like a broken record because every time this comes up, I'll say the same thing: Krown Rust Control. They used to only be found in Canada but now their shops are finally making their way into the U.S. There's a Krown shop near my in-laws house in Port Huron. I have had my former Land Cruiser sprayed every year and when I traded it for my EL, the frame was perfect. Michigan truck, zero rust. It was a 1998 with nearly 300,000 miles on it and a lot of winter. Absolutely zero rust. They carefully drill holes in every single body panel and mist the interiors of the panels with their special oil. They spray inside and outside the frame, under the hood, engine compartment, literally everywhere. Then they snap plastic plugs into the holes they drilled and you're set until the next year. $129 a year is a small price to pay to keep your truck rust free. If you don't believe me that this stuff works, here's photos of my Land Cruiser just before I traded in:
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NASCAR Mike
Full Access Members
As I understand it, all ford body panels are hot dip galvanized before they are painted so that should add some longevity to the metal.
The one thing that concerns me with any kind of undercoating spray is if the drain holes are plugged - especially the condensate drain from the air conditioner.
The one thing that concerns me with any kind of undercoating spray is if the drain holes are plugged - especially the condensate drain from the air conditioner.
ExpeditionAndy
Full Access Members
The place up here in Indiana does a lot of Ford vehicles, they are very familiar with them. I didn't have any problems with any of the drains, including the sunroof.
JExpedition07
That One Member
Ask my rocker panels how great fords hot dipped galvanized process is.... I need to have a wheel well arch worked on eventually too it’s bubbling. I had the thing undercoated and wash it once a week. My wheel well looks like complete garbage up close with th bubbles. This happened the last two months. Have your truck sprayed inside the rocker panels 07-17 expys hold water.
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Muddy Bean
Full Access Members
I can't speak for other undercoating methods, but if you spend some time doing research on them, Krown type of rust treatments will bubble up to the top. They use this special lightweight oil mist. It's unlike anything I've seen...when you spray it, it comes out like PAM spray and bubbles and froths on the surface you spray it on. They use long extended hoses to reach far into your body panels and then mist the inside with an omnidirectional misting head while slowly pulling out. They of course spray all underside surfaces, engine compartment etc. The oil will drip onto your driveway for a couple weeks. It's a clear mist. Not black. Not sure why it is looking black in my photos. Here's my take on the other two main methods: Fluid Film has been found to be a little too waxy for some users, and not necessarily as long lasting as an oil. That could be bunk, just what I've read on various forums. Rubberized undercoating can trap moisture underneath it, and the rust will just form underneath the rubber. I've actually seen and experienced this. For these reasons, I chose Krown oil. It actually displaces moisture on any surface it's sprayed on. A lot of times, rust starts on the inside of surfaces, door panels, rocker panels, etc. Water can get inside these cavities, and sit there...and then rust starts. If you have a decent amount of water-displacing oil on those surfaces, it helps to prevent corrosion. Detroit Fire Departments are actually paying Krown to treat their fire apparatuses which should say something.
Sheesh, I sound like a Krown spokesman. Sorry about that. They've just saved my trucks from the great northern cancer...so I'm incredibly impressed with the effectiveness of their products and methods.
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Sheesh, I sound like a Krown spokesman. Sorry about that. They've just saved my trucks from the great northern cancer...so I'm incredibly impressed with the effectiveness of their products and methods.
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JExpedition07
That One Member
^ I will probably take my Super Duty in There there is one close to me. I won’t pay them to do the expy until I replace the rocker panels. Also be sure you rinse out you panels as well once in a while, lots of dirt gets trapped.
USMCBuckWild
Full Access Members
As i said before, I lived in CT/New England for the first 25 years of my life. I commuted all over CT, in and out of NY city, Boston, all over the tri-state area. The only vehicles we ever had a rust issue with was my 83-85 Toyota trucks (I had 7 of them altogether but thats another story in itself). My parents cars are almost completely rust free. Basic maintenance, hosing down the car after driving in the snow/slush, keeping good wax on the paint, wd-40 on suspension/moving parts and neverseize on all the nuts/bolts during maintenance. Not saying you aren’t correct about driving down the road and collecting salt after a carwash, but every little bit helps.
ExpeditionAndy
Full Access Members
I always run them through the car wash the day after it snows when the roads are dry. You might pickup a little salt on the way home but it will be very little compared to what's on it from driving around in the snow and slush.
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