Speed Bleeders?

[Frank R]

I've got an intermittently dragging driver side front caliper on my '09 XLT. Also noticed it is pulling fairly severely to the right under hard braking. In hopes of remedying these issues, I'll be replacing the flex hoses in the coming days. Normally, when I do something like this I always install a set of speed bleeder screws as well for convenience sake. Problem is, I can't seem to find any to fit.

Am I missing something, or are these truly not available for our vehicles?

Thanks!

 

[1955moose]

I've been searching online, but as usual can't find the simplest thing. If it was me, I'd pull a bleeder off your old caliper and measure the thread. It should be either 8 or 10 mm thread. Then measure pitch either with a metric tap and die pitch, and length of bleeder thread in mm. Hardware stores have a pitch gauge on the wall. At least Ace hardware does . Why not call Russel bleeders direct, or one of the online speed shops.

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[powerboatr]

i assume your replacing the calipers as well, dragging brakes are caused by pistons not retracting, and this is caused most often than not from corrosion on the bore of the caliper and it catches the o ring and stops normal piston movement.
if its an 09...if it was mine, new calipers would be part of the mix
just my opinon

 

[Frank R]

i assume your replacing the calipers as well, dragging brakes are caused by pistons not retracting, and this is caused most often than not from corrosion on the bore of the caliper and it catches the o ring and stops normal piston movement.
if its an 09...if it was mine, new calipers would be part of the mix
just my opinon

I appreciate the input. I'm going to start with the hoses and see if that clears up the issue. Collapsed hoses will cause the same symptoms and seem to be a fairly common issue on these from my limited research. If I was doing a caliper swap, I'd do the hoses as well, so I figure I'll start with the simplest/cheapest and work my way up from there.

 

[1955moose]

It's possible an imploded hose would cause both applying and releasing problems of caliper. Like you said, it's cheap enough to do. All your out is hose price, some fluid, and an hour or so of your time.

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[TobyU]

I appreciate the input. I'm going to start with the hoses and see if that clears up the issue. Collapsed hoses will cause the same symptoms and seem to be a fairly common issue on these from my limited research. If I was doing a caliper swap, I'd do the hoses as well, so I figure I'll start with the simplest/cheapest and work my way up from there.

Agreed. Cheapest way first.
Hoses are harder to get loose from brake like than to replace caliper usually, but calipers don't really stick any more than hoses go bad and cause sticking.

I test and never replace almost ANY part until IT is the problem.
You can tell when you use c-clamp to push piston in if caliper is harder to push than normal.
I always lube under rubber seal to make caliper smoother ans last longer too.

If one is harder, I crack hose loose and if its the caliper, it will still be stiff. If it's hose the caliper will be a lot looser.
Most times a brake hose that's bad will keep the caliper tight for about 1.5-2 seconds after you let off the brake pedal.
Have someone push it as you try to turn rotor with caliper in place. Say UP and as soon as they let off pedal the rotor should turn. If it is tight but in 1-2 seconds turns easily, it's probably hose. If it stays tight and drags its probably caliper.
You can often lift up the dust seal as I mentioned and blow it out with air, then maybe wd-40, then I use Lucas Chain Lube to go all around. Do this when piston is still in out position then push it in.
Often if you do this and lube a couple of times, a sticky caliper will be perfect for years.
A shame so many don't even offer easily available caliper kits. My old E-450 kits were only 4.86 a caliper.
So easy to rebuild. One of mine was leaking not sticking.
Right after I bough it the same side had a leaking axle seal getting gear lube on pads/rotor. I fixed that and wore a set of pads out in 4-5 years and then the same side caliper leaked. The other side never did. Sold it with the other caliper kit in back storage.
I wonder if that side was run hot or brake pad metal on rotor and replaced or what before I got it. Right side, probably just more bumps and holes hit on that side and curbed tire more.
Very heavy duty though.
Dana 60 or larger dually with huge rotors and calipers.

 

[Trainmaster]

With the salt on the roads up here, calipers are usually toast after 10 years. Most still work, but when they start acting up they are so full of rust that it's time to go. And you have to see what rotors look like with ten years of road salt.

 

[Frank R]

With the salt on the roads up here, calipers are usually toast after 10 years. Most still work, but when they start acting up they are so full of rust that it's time to go. And you have to see what rotors look like with ten years of road salt.

I hear ya on the road salt. Nasty stuff, and the damn brine solution they are spraying now is even worse.

Everything looked pretty well rust free on my pre-sale inspection, but i'll take a better look around when I'm doing the hose and replace whatever needs to be done.

Still can't believe they don't make a speed bleeder for these. Don't know that I've ever owned a vehicle I couldn't get them for.

 

[1955moose]

Why bother with speed bleeder. You can buy a vacuum pump cheap on internet or used, has all the brake bleeder adapters. Before I got a compressor and bleeder plastic tank, I used a cheap one from Napa for years. Cost me like $40.00, and I used it for everything. Checking headlight vacuum doors, Lincoln parking brake release, anything that required vacuum. If not, a piece of clear hose into a jar, and a friend you can share a 6 pack with, is another way. Just remember to order the pepperoni pizza, extra cheese!

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[TobyU]

The only way I've ever bled brakes has been the someone else sitting inside and me yelling down, up, down, up, down. And I'm real loud too. I love my neighbors. I often add certain little noises in there with some moans and stuff like that just to make it more interesting.

 

[1955moose]

Up down, up down, amazing you didn't have vice cops knocking on the door! Or installing an old V8 camshaft, you'd say are you in? Your reply, I'm through!

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[Frank R]

Oh, I'm well versed in the 2-person method. My wife has become quite skilled in pedal-pushing over the years

 

[theoldwizard1]

In my experience, dragging calipers, are usually caused by less than prefect slide pins and/or less than perfect slide pin bores.

If you want to reuse the slide pins, they really need to be "polished" back to their original finished. This usually means cleaning them on a bench grinder with a wire wheel. Cleaning the pin bores on the caliper is more difficult. After cleaning out the old grease you need to "ream" the bores. The simplest way is to chuck a drill bit one size smaller than the bore into your drill, insert it into the bore and wiggle it around. You DO want to expose a small amount of fresh metal, but don't go crazy.

Last, when installing the pads, thoroughly clean the areas on the caliper behind where the stainless steel clips are installed. Sand blast or powered wheel is required. If, after installing the clips the pads do not easily fit, you need more cleaning.

Obviously use proper grease on the pins, behind the clips and the back side of the pads themselves.


On vehicles that repeatedly had this problem, I replace the caliper, the slide pins and the caliper bracket. Online (Rock Auto), you can buy this combination for just a few dollars more than just a rebuilt caliper.

 

[bobmbx]

In my experience, dragging calipers, are usually caused by less than prefect slide pins and/or less than perfect slide pin bores.

If you want to reuse the slide pins, they really need to be "polished" back to their original finished. This usually means cleaning them on a bench grinder with a wire wheel. Cleaning the pin bores on the caliper is more difficult. After cleaning out the old grease you need to "ream" the bores. The simplest way is to chuck a drill bit one size smaller than the bore into your drill, insert it into the bore and wiggle it around. You DO want to expose a small amount of fresh metal, but don't go crazy.

Last, when installing the pads, thoroughly clean the areas on the caliper behind where the stainless steel clips are installed. Sand blast or powered wheel is required. If, after installing the clips the pads do not easily fit, you need more cleaning.

Obviously use proper grease on the pins, behind the clips and the back side of the pads themselves.


On vehicles that repeatedly had this problem, I replace the caliper, the slide pins and the caliper bracket. Online (Rock Auto), you can buy this combination for just a few dollars more than just a rebuilt caliper.

Use a gun cleaning kit for the bores. Put the wire brush on a drill and have at it......

 

[TobyU]

A lot of the parts stores are only carrying the caliper with the bracket now especially on the ones that are 10 plus years old and commonly stick on the sliders. I guess that makes it more convenient for people but it does cost you between 8 and $14 more.

 

[1955moose]

See it might be a west coast thing, but I've never experienced a stuck slider. I only wire brush or Emery cloth the pins, and coat a little grease, usually the red Harley good stuff on the slide. SUVs that are parked indoors have literally 0 problem sticking. I've found it's mostly a piston that gets stuck. Motorcycles are famous for it. On bikes you rebuild calipers at all costs. They start at over $200.00 on up, and when over 10 years old, when you need them, their discontinued. I'd usually just pop calipers apart, lightly sand bores, clean rust off pistons and reuse. You can do the same with the Ford ones, especially if single piston, real easy to blow apart, and reasemble. Just takes a new oring, and possibly a boot.

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[JohnA]

just did '10 fronts. replaced caliper, disc and hose for same prob. Caliper boots were torn and pistons retracted very stiffly. Could only get stiff wire 6-7 inches down rubber hose. Typical Ford prob at 130K. Have '03 Sport trac w 130 K I did same for last fall. good luck. always lots of good info from these folks on forum. They seem to know what's what.

 

[rjdelp7]

Everyone covered the 'stuck' pistons and bad hardware. I have experienced poor fitting pads. One set fit so tight, I couldn't put them on. Another set my mechanic put on, had to be put on a grinder. He ground the metal that rides on the sliders. The pads should fit loose, with some slop. If they are tight, will not release 100% and drag. Many people swear by OEM, only brake pads, for this reason. Bendix and other 'name brand' are usually good. I had issues with Autozone pads and one I bought from PrimeChoiceAuto(online). I have been told many mechanics, will grind the metal, before installing.

 

[TobyU]

Often pads will be a little tight going into the calipers oh, this can be because of the paint build up on the pad metal backing or it can be from rust build-up on the caliper mating surfaces or caliper bracket mating surfaces. I always just have a file there and give them a little bit if necessary to make them fit and slide properly. I have not used any set of pads other than AutoZone advance O'Reilly for over 20 years now. I have never had an issue with any of them.

 

[tack87]

If it were me I would just rebuild the calipers. I had a bad pull, so when I changed pads I rebuilt all four calipers, was plenty easy enough.