Shocks/struts

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reamest

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So my Expedition has turned over 252k miles, and I've had it for the last 90k+. I don't know when the shocks and struts were changed, if ever. I've never done it, and I'm wondering what everyone would recommend for a shock and strut package for my Expedition? It's a 2007 Limited without air bags. I wouldn't mind if it was lifted a little, but not necessary. I'm mainly looking for the best ride quality without breaking the bank. 8662c7c25c75967602b3fa46e7c64f9e.jpg

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08navigator

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Monroe quick struts are good. We have them on our 2008 navigator and they have been great for the past 10k miles. They have two options usually. Don't get the cheap quick struts unless you plan to sell it soon. Also, as far as doing these yourself, it's easy to do in my opinion. All you really need is an air impact or a long breaker bar(harbor freight sells these for $20). The bottom bolt on the shocks requires a massive torque spec which most torque wrench set won't do so I just tightened the piss out of it with a breaker bar and used threadlock and haven't had any issues.

One note is to make sure you drop the suv off of the jack and get it at normal ride height before tightening the bottom nut or it will tear up the bushing.

You can also pull the shocks off and use a spring compressor to remove the shock itself but use caution doing that. It's so much easier to buy the quickstruts and it comes with a new spring so no worries about sagging

As you can see in the pics, Monroe sells the roadmatic quickstruts for a decent amount less than the others but I have heard they are not very good at all.


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reamest

reamest

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I bought the quick struts and started tonight. I got the old one out, but I can't get the new one back in... Did you have any issues trying to get the new ones in?

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mjp2

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I bought the quick struts and started tonight. I got the old one out, but I can't get the new one back in... Did you have any issues trying to get the new ones in?

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The bolt pattern on the strut top plate is side-specific. If you can't get things to line up, try the other.

Unrelated to the shocks, that's a really nice truck. I like the look of that front end.
 

Black

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I bought the quick struts and started tonight. I got the old one out, but I can't get the new one back in... Did you have any issues trying to get the new ones in?

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What is not going back in?
Length, studs on the top hat, bottom bolt?
 
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reamest

reamest

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What is not going back in?
Length, studs on the top hat, bottom bolt?
I can get the bottom bolt in, but when I try to put the top in, it felt like it was binding and getting stuck before the studs would get close to going through the top. The overall diameter of the FOMOCO struts taken off were 6", the new are 7"...28e00f7a87d8860bbe8a6d36522eb929.jpg

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Black

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You sure the top is clocked correctly and the stud towards the inside of the vehicle is lined up properly?
It is nearly impossible to see if that stud is lined up or not so you have to be pretty spot on with the two you can see.
I am guessing that back stud is not making it to the hole. You have to push the assembly in and up for that back stud to make it to the hole.
 

Adieu

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I bought the quick struts and started tonight. I got the old one out, but I can't get the new one back in... Did you have any issues trying to get the new ones in?

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Use a 2x6 and a second jack.... the board to pry and direct, the jack to get it to line up

Do NOT tighten any of the top screws or insert the lower bolt before everything is lined up


PS how did you get it out? Loosened knuckles or dropped lower control arm?
 

Adieu

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I can get the bottom bolt in, but when I try to put the top in, it felt like it was binding and getting stuck before the studs would get close to going through the top. The overall diameter of the FOMOCO struts taken off were 6", the new are 7"...28e00f7a87d8860bbe8a6d36522eb929.jpg

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Top first, put nuts on super loosely do not tighten... THEN bottom bolt
 
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reamest

reamest

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You sure the top is clocked correctly and the stud towards the inside of the vehicle is lined up properly?
It is nearly impossible to see if that stud is lined up or not so you have to be pretty spot on with the two you can see.
I am guessing that back stud is not making it to the hole. You have to push the assembly in and up for that back stud to make it to the hole.
Well, all it took was my brother to come over and call me an idiot... Apparently sleep was eluding me and I was trying to put the rear struts up front... SMH. Once I grabbed the correct one everything went smoothly. I got it all done last night. All four corners done and new upper rear control arms to boot.

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reamest

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Use a 2x6 and a second jack.... the board to pry and direct, the jack to get it to line up

Do NOT tighten any of the top screws or insert the lower bolt before everything is lined up


PS how did you get it out? Loosened knuckles or dropped lower control arm?
Had to separate the upper ball joint, the sway bar and the tie rod end. With all that disconnected, I could step on the rotor to push the lower a-arm down to get the old or and the new in. Pretty simple once you use the correct parts...

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bobmbx

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Well, all it took was my brother to come over and call me an idiot... Apparently sleep was eluding me and I was trying to put the rear struts up front... SMH. Once I grabbed the correct one everything went smoothly. I got it all done last night. All four corners done and new upper rear control arms to boot.

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Dumber things have been done......don't worry about it.

Although, you are required to snip a corner off your Man-Card for telling everyone about it.
 

Adieu

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Dumber things have been done......don't worry about it.

Although, you are required to snip a corner off your Man-Card for telling everyone about it.

His mancard is still in the mail

Changing shocks on a truck is a modern day rite of passage
 
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