Timing Chain Cover Leaking - 2007 Navigator

[CarlzExpedition]

My 2007 Navigator has been diagnosed with a leaking timing cover. I was quoted about $1100 to resolve it. We have maintained this vehicle well and intend to keep it for a while as our second vehicle. It is leaking a decent amount of oil when parked, but not so much that I have to top it off between oil changes. Current mileage is 137k miles

My questions:
1. Is $1,100 a reasonable price to repair the timing cover leak?
2. If I proceed with the repair, would it be a good idea to have them replace the timing chain at that time?

 

[stamp11127]

Why not get the shop manual off ebay, invest in some needed tools and save yourself some money?

It wouldn't hurt to swap out the timing setup since the cover is already off.

The is a lady on the site that also has a Navi who is in the middle of tearing down the upper end of the motor to resolve a cylinder compression issue. She can probably give you some pointers.

 

[762mm]

Unless the price is in Pesos, it's a ridiculous amount for a timing chain cover gasket job.

If the cover itself is damaged and leaking (not a gasket issue), then it's possible the timing chain guides are worn and the chain was so slack that it ate a hole through the cover. In that case you'd need a new timing cover, gasket, chain guides and tensioners, at the very least. Possibly new chains too, if the old ones have stretched from all the slack. The oil pan would then need to be dropped too, in order to remove all the broken pieces and debris from the bottom of the pan and from the oil pickup tube.

In that case $1100 would sound quite reasonable.


As already suggested, do it yourself to save money... but find out what the exact problem is first! (where is it leaking?) There are plenty of videos on YouTube on how to do a timing job on Navigators, Expeditions and F-150s.

 

[CarlzExpedition]

Thanks for the tips guys.

I have all of the tools for this job, with the exception of the crank pulley removal tool. I definitely like saving money and not afraid to do the job myself. I have changed out all of the spark plugs (had to use extraction tool on one that broke off), coils, replaced the rear air springs and compressor, all brakes, alternator. However right now I don't have much free time with work.

I pulled up a 4 part youtube video of a mechanic tackling the job and I must say it looks like quite an involved job! It appears that they will need to replace the valve cover gaskets in addition to the timing chain cover gasket.

I am waiting to hear back on how much additional the timing chain and tensioner service will be additional. I'm hoping not much, as I'm assuming getting to it is the biggest expense

 

[RustyOval]

If you have to pay someone to do the work, get rid of it because the vehicle is not worth the money. I too had to decide between motor work (timing chains, sprockets, etc. and exhaust manifolds), after talking to my mechanic I decided to throw in the towel and trade in my 09 with 170K on it. $2,200 for timing and oil pump, a low estimate of $1,100 for both exhaust manifolds (if everything goes smoothly).

We even talked about a reman motor $5-7k installed because there are all the peripheral things that are needed and then you still have the old tranny and differentials. My mechanic has the 5.4 in his truck and he knows what he is doing. IMO what you have is a money pit and consideration should be given to getting another lower milage vehicle.

We traded on a 2018 and havent looked back even though I really liked the 09.

 

[TobyU]

An 07 with that low of miles is probably is pretty good shape.
I would not even consider getting rid of it.
I would probably not do timing components just pull the cover and reseal.
It is not too involves to pull the cover just plug and chug until you get it everything out of way and off.
I am way behind of things and lazy so I would go get some Blue Devil Engine Oil stop leak. It is 19.95 but works extremely well.
Money back guarantee too.
I have used the money back twice from this company but have used their products with success over 10 times.

Also what oil are you running in it now? Is it hot there? If you are running a full syn and it is hot and a 5w20 it's a wonder it's not leaking more. Lol...but I don't like 5w20 and full syn will leak more in most leak situations.

If it were mine I would change the oil to a 5w-30 non synthetic oil and put the recommended amount and maybe a tad bit more (yep I'm an over achiever--not) of the Blue Devil Oil stop leak into in and drive it for at least a month or 750-1000 miles and re-assess the leak.

 

[Trainmaster]

Blue Devil Oil stop leak into in and drive it for at least a month or 750-1000 miles and re-assess the leak.

...then sell it.

 

[TobyU]

...then sell it.

Depends on how much it is leaking. If it stops....keep on truckin'.

 

[Hamfisted]

Where on the timing cover is it leaking ? Clean off the area with brake cleaner spray and check the torque on the retaining bolts. The gasket itself is in a channel in the timing cover so it's not going to just slip or blow out. It's an extensive job just to replace the gasket. You might as well do the timing chains and guides, water pump, ( cam phasers, oil pump....) while you're there 'cause that's how much you have to do to get to those components anyway. I just did all this on mine and it's not that much fun. Installing a high volume Melling oil pump and running 10w-30 oil will save your motor in the long run. The good news is the 3V motor is slightly easier to do than the 2V motors because the valve covers are shallower and fewer bolts. Use some super glue in spots to hold the valve cover gaskets in place during re-installation. They slip out of place easily and that'll lead to big oil leaks. If you re-torque the timing cover bolts now, you may be able to seal the small leak you have with some Permatex oil resistant silicone and that would get you by for now. Get some anyway, cause you'll use it if you go any further in the motor.


https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-821...76504915&sprefix=Permatex+oil+,aps,188&sr=8-1

 

[JExpedition07]

I’d fix your Navigator, you have a minor problem and a new truck with its payment and depreciation isn’t going to net you better in this case lol.

 

[rjdelp7]

Tighten up on the bolts. That area only gets oil splash. It may be leaking somewhere else.

 

[Trainmaster]

Like rjdelp says above, make darn sure it's the cover that's leaking. There's not much oil in there, just splash lubrication. Are you sure it's not running down from somewhere else?

 

[Franklin Jones]

I’m in the “keep and repair” camp.

I just traded in my 06 Yukon with 250k miles. The engine and transmission were still strong, it was rust and accessories that were starting to fail. I plan on keeping my expy for at least that many miles, as long as it doesn’t rust to death. Your ’gator should have lots of life left.

Also, a few years back, I replaced the timing chain, water pump, oil pump, intake gasket, etc etc etc on my old Dodge Ram truck when it was -5 degrees out. I know it’s different than the 5.4 you’re dealing with, but it’s still just unscrewing one bolt after another until you get everything off, then putting them back in the right spot.

 

[Franklin Jones]

And keep the stop leak far away from your engine.

Stop leak products usually do a great job at stopping leaks... but also stopping flow in the books and crannies and passages where you need it.

 

[TobyU]

And keep the stop leak far away from your engine.

Stop leak products usually do a great job at stopping leaks... but also stopping flow in the books and crannies and passages where you need it.

Can be true for the motor honeys and lucas and STP thick ones but Blue Devil Oil Leak stop is a thin oil. Seal sweller I guess. I would have no concern for it hurting or blocking anything.
Just like using a High Mileage oil with seal conditioners (swellers) to help stop leaks.

I would never put a thick oil additive in anything with a good or even decent engine.
Those are Hail Marys for old worn out noisy, knocking, oil blowing ones.

 

[rjdelp7]

A blocked exhaust, will cause excess crankcase pressure. It may cause leaks around valve covers and main seals. Any chance you have a clogged CAT?

 

[CarlzExpedition]

A blocked exhaust, will cause excess crankcase pressure. It may cause leaks around valve covers and main seals. Any chance you have a clogged CAT?

I just smogged it last month and it passed. I'm assuming that would throw a code or not pass? Although, Nevada smog checks seem to be pretty lenient compared to CA where I grew up...