Upgrading B&O sub

[Yoop33]

Has anyone messed with their B&O system?
I’m wanting better sounding bass thru the whole truck but want to retain the factory unit. Was thinking of just replacing the sub, maybe push it a little more if possible and remove some of the lower frequencies from the door speakers but I don’t really know if that’s possible without upgrading the amps and rewiring the truck... which I don’t really wanna get into.
Anyone have experience?


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[heatfan4life]

Would like to know this as well, thanks!

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[zebrex]

I have also considered this. The option that I am leaning to more is since I have the captain chairs in the second row is having a console with padded armrest and a down firing 12 inch sub in the bottom. I believe the console will be useful, look good and give me the bass that I am after. I was quoted $1200 to have it done.

 

[Yoop33]

I have also considered this. The option that I am leaning to more is since I have the captain chairs in the second row is having a console with padded armrest and a down firing 12 inch sub in the bottom. I believe the console will be useful, look good and give me the bass that I am after. I was quoted $1200 to have it done.

JL used to make a stealth box for the center counsel in expeditions which would be perfect but think it was a 10” and for older models. I had one and it sounded amazing and super clean.
I like the idea of putting it between the captains chairs but I dunno if I wanna give up that space.


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[Rancidlunchmeat]

Where is the B&O sub located?

 

[aggiegrad05]

You might check out this thread:
https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/subwoofer-upgrades.35667/

Not sure if they ever came to a solution.

 

[Joe angrisani]

FWIW I just added an amp and subs to my 20 b&o, and it was painless
I’ll let you know how well it works as far as if the dsp “interferes “ too much or not but initially it works as expected......

 

[StealthyBulldog]

FWIW I just added an amp and subs to my 20 b&o, and it was painless
I’ll let you know how well it works as far as if the dsp “interferes “ too much or not but initially it works as expected......

Any pictures or write up would be a great help to others! Thanks

 

[5280tunage]

I had asked JL about it close to a year ago and they said it was on the list to possibly get to (a replacement of the factory enclosure in the trunk side panel) but I'm guessing covid delayed it. I love the stealth enclosures, pretty pricey but the quality is 2nd to none. I don't have the time or tools to do any fiberglass builds anymore...

 

[Nate2020KR]

Check out this series of 3 videos of Sound Good Stereo in TN of a full build in a Stealth.

 

[8131full]

Check out this series of 3 videos of Sound Good Stereo in TN of a full build in a Stealth.

Can't even imagine the price tag for this build. Hardware alone must've been well north of $20k. They sell those A Pillar mods (without speakers) for $1400 for the pair. Amazing install, though. Lucky owner.

 

[heatfan4life]

Can't even imagine the price tag for this build. Hardware alone must've been well north of $20k. They sell those A Pillar mods (without speakers) for $1400 for the pair. Amazing install, though. Lucky owner.

25K!!

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[5280tunage]

that's pretty nuts. 25k? I mean I get it, some great equipment that's for sure. I've thought about doing some minor stuff but I'm just not sure I want to tear these panels out, not sure I trust that they won't break on me. Funny thing though, with that much power, I'd for sure want at least a CAP if not a second battery, not sure where the heck you'd put it. And I think I like the sound of the turbos too much right now!

 

[heatfan4life]

that's pretty nuts. 25k? I mean I get it, some great equipment that's for sure. I've thought about doing some minor stuff but I'm just not sure I want to tear these panels out, not sure I trust that they won't break on me. Funny thing though, with that much power, I'd for sure want at least a CAP if not a second battery, not sure where the heck you'd put it. And I think I like the sound of the turbos too much right now!

If you look at the video that @Nate2020KR posted, they actually used the factory enclosure for the install. Just need to find a cheaper Sub with the same airspace requirement, think the one they used was $1200 buck or so!

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[5280tunage]

If you look at the video that @Nate2020KR posted, they actually used the factory enclosure for the install. Just need to find a cheaper Sub with the same airspace requirement, think the one they used was $1200 buck or so!

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I hear ya, I wasn't worried about the sub so to speak, but the amount of stuff you have to tear out to get to the sub, then for running the power and likely ground all the way back, finding a good safe place to put the signal processors and amp, etc. Normally I would hide them say under seats, etc, but there's not much room with these, given their tracks, motors, gears, etc.

JL Audio is still one of the leaders for good sound, good quality, and low VAS requirements. Its the brand I've used in every vehicle for the last 20+ years. For these, the W0 series is likely the best since it's a single sub. I personally love the W6's but they are designed to be used in sets of 3. I probably will still do it, but it's not a priority. For me, I have turbo adapters, Y pipes, etc to do but I've been waiting over 6 months to do them, since it's taken Ford this long to approve some warranty repairs.

I actually already ordered a spare factory sub, so I can slowly modify and build it to hold a W0 I already have, but I'll take my time with it. I'm assuming this is like a lot of other SUV's where you have to remove the trunk floor completely to get the side panels out, the Pillars, etc. And then you have half a dozen plastic tabs that break, compression clips that break off, etc.

 

[heatfan4life]

I hear ya, I wasn't worried about the sub so to speak, but the amount of stuff you have to tear out to get to the sub, then for running the power and likely ground all the way back, finding a good safe place to put the signal processors and amp, etc. Normally I would hide them say under seats, etc, but there's not much room with these, given their tracks, motors, gears, etc.

JL Audio is still one of the leaders for good sound, good quality, and low VAS requirements. Its the brand I've used in every vehicle for the last 20+ years. For these, the W0 series is likely the best since it's a single sub. I personally love the W6's but they are designed to be used in sets of 3. I probably will still do it, but it's not a priority. For me, I have turbo adapters, Y pipes, etc to do but I've been waiting over 6 months to do them, since it's taken Ford this long to approve some warranty repairs.

I actually already ordered a spare factory sub, so I can slowly modify and build it to hold a W0 I already have, but I'll take my time with it. I'm assuming this is like a lot of other SUV's where you have to remove the trunk floor completely to get the side panels out, the Pillars, etc. And then you have half a dozen plastic tabs that break, compression clips that break off, etc.

Message I received from a JL rep today, a solution is on the way soon.http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/6064fd72af8c8/voicemail.mp3

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[Nate2020KR]

Message I received from a JL rep today, a solution is on the way soon.http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/6064fd72af8c8/voicemail.mp3

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Man that is great news! Thanks for sharing. It would be nice to use the existing power amp.

 

[heatfan4life]

Man that is great news! Thanks for sharing. It would be nice to use the existing power amp.

Welcome, and indeed it is. I've been searching for a viable solution since last summer, fingers crossed!

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[5280tunage]

Message I received from a JL rep today, a solution is on the way soon.http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/6064fd72af8c8/voicemail.mp3

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That would be pretty sweet. They are never cheap but always come out pretty nice. I'm not sure it will work with the factory amp though, for one likely not enough power to get anything good from a stealthbox. Most of the time their sweet spot is between 125 and 200 watts (if not more depending on the driver). Also, factory subs often have weird impedance levels, I've seen some that were 6 ohms, some that were 2 ohms to support a bridged connection of two channels from an amp so it's not an odd number of channels, etc. not to mention how important it is for a correct crossover for a good sub. On my last stealthbox, I had a monoblock JL audio amp setup for 300 watts and it was awesome!

 

[Joe angrisani]

Sorry guys for the delay. I wasn’t sure it was gonna work so I just used some stuff I had laying around
I had a pac loc, a JL 1200.1v3, and some kicker comp 15’s in a band pass ( not my intended subs just for now)
I tapped the loc into the l&r inputs to the factory sub amp in the left rear panel. I left the factory B&O sub functioning as it was but just tapped into its input for an output to my JL amp. The rest is obvious as far as connections. The 15’s are crossed over ( lpf set to) about 70 hz , and subsonic filter is at 15 hz, 2 db boost @ 35hz. The loc has a volume knob that I ran up to the center console. All of the factory anc and dsp are un touched. The 15’s fill the void that the factory 10 can’t and just extend the factory systems range. Of course I can turn the knob up and knock signs off buildings but when the gains are at a mature level it actually sounds pretty good. Does it need more, yes but it adds what the factory junk was missing. I’m going to ditch the 15’s, and put a single 13w7 in its place, it’ll need a bit more on the gains but I won’t have lost access to my third row lol
I’ll keep ya’s posted as I add but this was an easy good start. I suspect I’ll upgrade the 10 in the factory sub after the w7, then some 6.5” separates for the front doors and an amp. When I play with circumventing the dsp I’ll keep yas posted.
In summation a good amp and a 10-12” sub is easy to add and makes a huge difference