Can't even imagine the price tag for this build. Hardware alone must've been well north of $20k. They sell those A Pillar mods (without speakers) for $1400 for the pair. Amazing install, though. Lucky owner.
Upgrading B&O sub
- Thread starter Yoop33
- Start date
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heatfan4life
Member
5280tunage
Full Access Members
that's pretty nuts. 25k? I mean I get it, some great equipment that's for sure. I've thought about doing some minor stuff but I'm just not sure I want to tear these panels out, not sure I trust that they won't break on me. Funny thing though, with that much power, I'd for sure want at least a CAP if not a second battery, not sure where the heck you'd put it. And I think I like the sound of the turbos too much right now!
heatfan4life
Member
If you look at the video that @Nate2020KR posted, they actually used the factory enclosure for the install. Just need to find a cheaper Sub with the same airspace requirement, think the one they used was $1200 buck or so!
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5280tunage
Full Access Members
I hear ya, I wasn't worried about the sub so to speak, but the amount of stuff you have to tear out to get to the sub, then for running the power and likely ground all the way back, finding a good safe place to put the signal processors and amp, etc. Normally I would hide them say under seats, etc, but there's not much room with these, given their tracks, motors, gears, etc.
JL Audio is still one of the leaders for good sound, good quality, and low VAS requirements. Its the brand I've used in every vehicle for the last 20+ years. For these, the W0 series is likely the best since it's a single sub. I personally love the W6's but they are designed to be used in sets of 3. I probably will still do it, but it's not a priority. For me, I have turbo adapters, Y pipes, etc to do but I've been waiting over 6 months to do them, since it's taken Ford this long to approve some warranty repairs.
I actually already ordered a spare factory sub, so I can slowly modify and build it to hold a W0 I already have, but I'll take my time with it. I'm assuming this is like a lot of other SUV's where you have to remove the trunk floor completely to get the side panels out, the Pillars, etc. And then you have half a dozen plastic tabs that break, compression clips that break off, etc.
heatfan4life
Member
Message I received from a JL rep today, a solution is on the way soon.http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/6064fd72af8c8/voicemail.mp3
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Nate2020KR
Well-Known Member
Man that is great news! Thanks for sharing. It would be nice to use the existing power amp.
heatfan4life
Member
Welcome, and indeed it is. I've been searching for a viable solution since last summer, fingers crossed!
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5280tunage
Full Access Members
That would be pretty sweet. They are never cheap but always come out pretty nice. I'm not sure it will work with the factory amp though, for one likely not enough power to get anything good from a stealthbox. Most of the time their sweet spot is between 125 and 200 watts (if not more depending on the driver). Also, factory subs often have weird impedance levels, I've seen some that were 6 ohms, some that were 2 ohms to support a bridged connection of two channels from an amp so it's not an odd number of channels, etc. not to mention how important it is for a correct crossover for a good sub. On my last stealthbox, I had a monoblock JL audio amp setup for 300 watts and it was awesome!
Joe angrisani
New Member
Sorry guys for the delay. I wasn’t sure it was gonna work so I just used some stuff I had laying around
I had a pac loc, a JL 1200.1v3, and some kicker comp 15’s in a band pass ( not my intended subs just for now)
I tapped the loc into the l&r inputs to the factory sub amp in the left rear panel. I left the factory B&O sub functioning as it was but just tapped into its input for an output to my JL amp. The rest is obvious as far as connections. The 15’s are crossed over ( lpf set to) about 70 hz , and subsonic filter is at 15 hz, 2 db boost @ 35hz. The loc has a volume knob that I ran up to the center console. All of the factory anc and dsp are un touched. The 15’s fill the void that the factory 10 can’t and just extend the factory systems range. Of course I can turn the knob up and knock signs off buildings but when the gains are at a mature level it actually sounds pretty good. Does it need more, yes but it adds what the factory junk was missing. I’m going to ditch the 15’s, and put a single 13w7 in its place, it’ll need a bit more on the gains but I won’t have lost access to my third row lol
I’ll keep ya’s posted as I add but this was an easy good start. I suspect I’ll upgrade the 10 in the factory sub after the w7, then some 6.5” separates for the front doors and an amp. When I play with circumventing the dsp I’ll keep yas posted.
In summation a good amp and a 10-12” sub is easy to add and makes a huge difference
I had a pac loc, a JL 1200.1v3, and some kicker comp 15’s in a band pass ( not my intended subs just for now)
I tapped the loc into the l&r inputs to the factory sub amp in the left rear panel. I left the factory B&O sub functioning as it was but just tapped into its input for an output to my JL amp. The rest is obvious as far as connections. The 15’s are crossed over ( lpf set to) about 70 hz , and subsonic filter is at 15 hz, 2 db boost @ 35hz. The loc has a volume knob that I ran up to the center console. All of the factory anc and dsp are un touched. The 15’s fill the void that the factory 10 can’t and just extend the factory systems range. Of course I can turn the knob up and knock signs off buildings but when the gains are at a mature level it actually sounds pretty good. Does it need more, yes but it adds what the factory junk was missing. I’m going to ditch the 15’s, and put a single 13w7 in its place, it’ll need a bit more on the gains but I won’t have lost access to my third row lol
I’ll keep ya’s posted as I add but this was an easy good start. I suspect I’ll upgrade the 10 in the factory sub after the w7, then some 6.5” separates for the front doors and an amp. When I play with circumventing the dsp I’ll keep yas posted.
In summation a good amp and a 10-12” sub is easy to add and makes a huge difference
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