Where would I find the connections for the rear AC line on my 2016 Expedition Utility?

[ThisGuyAgain]

Hi all,
I've got a 2016 Expedition with a slow AC leak. Compression test passes, but after a week it stops working and needs a recharge. Filled it with UV, can't find the leak under the car or in the engine compartment. As much as I'd love to have my shop do a full leak diagnostic, budget's tight, so I'm looking at just doing a rear AC delete like https://www.autocoolingsolutions.com/products/rear-ac-block-off-bk71075f? or the cheap ones on Amazon (those don't have the nut and bolt which I assume I'll need) as a first step. Then, if there's still a leak, I know it's in the front which is more affordable to fix.

Poking my head under the hood, I can't for the life of me see where the rear AC lines even connect to the front. Anyone know where to point me? All I see are welded alumiunum pipes. If I'd need to take off the side panels anyway, I'd probably rather have the shop do it.

 

[AWAR]

This should get you close. The connections are between the battery and the firewall.

 

[ThisGuyAgain]

AMAZING, thank you!

 

[AWAR]

Happy to assist.

 

[17expi]

Hi all,
I've got a 2016 Expedition with a slow AC leak. Compression test passes, but after a week it stops working and needs a recharge. Filled it with UV, can't find the leak under the car or in the engine compartment. As much as I'd love to have my shop do a full leak diagnostic, budget's tight, so I'm looking at just doing a rear AC delete like https://www.autocoolingsolutions.com/products/rear-ac-block-off-bk71075f? or the cheap ones on Amazon (those don't have the nut and bolt which I assume I'll need) as a first step. Then, if there's still a leak, I know it's in the front which is more affordable to fix.

Poking my head under the hood, I can't for the life of me see where the rear AC lines even connect to the front. Anyone know where to point me? All I see are welded alumiunum pipes. If I'd need to take off the side panels anyway, I'd probably rather have the shop do it.

Those block offs are ok until you sell the car, and you will have to evacuate the system with a special vacuum pump before refilling it, and you should get a set of gauges to get the high and low pressures right. By the time you are done I think you would be better off putting some dye in it and using a uv light to find the leak. Check around the compressor also. Often you can repair the leak without recharging the whole thing. Check the condenser also, they often leak. A little sealer might fix it but don't overdo it with the sealer. Spend a little time checking the entire system. A set of gauges don't cost much but you need to get to prsuues right so you don't slug the compressor etc

 

[ThisGuyAgain]

Well fortunately it "self empties" pretty well and the shop near me will do the refill for $20. Leak fix didnt help.

Put dye in already, lasted about a week before it stopped working, cant find the leak, shop cant either without dissasembly. Much of the rear line is so burried that they quoted me 8 hrs labor to find it. Very honest place too and have treated us very well over the years.

Im not a car guy so Id rather drive my ford off a bridge than dissasemble the side panels and seats to check the rear ac line. I understand it, but I hate doing it. Id much rather hack the software on a car than touch the hardware, esepcially with the time it takes - Ive got like 30 min a week to work on this stuff.

Got the car for $5k to begin with so resale value isnt much of a concern.

 

[ThisGuyAgain]

Another challenge though, the kits they have online are the wrong gender for the larger side. I need a female which costs 10x the male.

 

[17expi]

I was going to do one of those block-offs on my Excursion but luckily found the pinhole leak way in the back in the line so I got a repair kit on ebay for peanuts, and it held for the 10 years in owned it.

 

[AWAR]

That is still less expensive than trying to find that hose for one without rear air. If that was even an option when your car was made.