And always be careful with Amazon parts, be very careful of the vendor.
Everything isn't sold by Amazon directly. And many of those auto part vendors sell counterfeited and rejected parts. I bought a set of "Motorcraft" ignition coils that all failed within 20k miles. One within just two weeks.
I think you can replace the rear shocks with anything you like, to the best of my knowledge, Monroe is the one company that sells an EZ install unit that replaces the front airspring.
I'd love to be able to try a Bilstein set-up, with the Monroe rear coils, if one existed.
I converted the suspension because I had previously owned a Lincoln Mark VIII. I was meticulous about maintaining that system and very active in that car community. Despite this, it would still failing at the most inopportune times.
The moment i detected a leak in a coil spring on the...
The flex head socket was the answer.
It has to be a relatively low profile, flex socket where the socket and the universal joint are one piece.
You don't have room if you try to use an adapter.
I spent hours trying to do it without this tool, it took minutes once i had it.
I don't presume to know the solution here, nor am I likely going to have the answer.
But was it working before you replace the blend door actuator? And what part number did you replace it with?
Brake fluid technology continues to improve too.
Bosch is selling a 5.1 which has a boiling point much, much higher than Dot 3 and 4, and it's not silicon based like DOT5, so you can mix it.
I need to flush the rear heater core.
Can I cut into the two rubber hoses were they go through the floor, flush from there, and they reconnect them with a pair of 5/8 fittings?
Doing it that way, would it also enable me to flush out the 18' of heater hose running from the engine to the back...
I'm inclined to think it was air in the system.
How long had it been doing that?
Was there any repair or service that had taken place just prior to it?
I think these two questions are critical to the internet diagnosis. If the system had never been opened up and it just started doing that...
This is the tool that made all the difference in the world.
7mm flex socket.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80253-4-Inch-Drive-Socket/dp/B002YKBL5W
With that and some considerable extensions, the plugs went from impossible to merely annoying- without having to remove...
I replaced the air ride system with coil springs on a '98 Navigator.
1- is there anyway, other than physically disabling the light, to disable the 'check air ride light'
2- and does the conversion cause a problem with the speed sensitive steering with the car. I remember having always felt...
I had about 180k on my '98 with the original set. Everything was seemingly fine.
Then, without warning, at least one coil failed. This prompted me to change the set.
If you can afford it, and specifically if you have any intention to keep the vehicle, it only makes sense to have them change...
Not to overwhelm you, but you're getting behind the dashboard to fix a heater core, it is absolutely worth your time to make sure the blend-door actuator is working and healthy before you do.
As for the tune up:
Use motorcraft parts (they've become remarkably affordable now that you can buy...
True.
And... unrelated... but once I had the 7mm flex socket (not just a wobble extension or a universal joint socket) the plug/coil swap become much less miserable, without even removing the fuel rail.
I need to go onto youtube and post that comment on every 'how-to' video I see. Buy the 7mm...
Increasingly consistent misfire-
when it's misfiring, you know. But sometimes, it doesn't. Sometimes at idle. Most likely when under load. Worse when cold.
I'd like to disturb as little as possible, so if I can use the OBDII data to provide some focus, I'd prefer to do that.
And, I know...
Has anyone else used any of the non-proprietary obdII scanners on the '98? Were you able to recover the misfire data that should be in $53? I still can't recover anything over $50
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