Brake Calipers Hanging Slightly - 2018 Expedition Max

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KOMaynard

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I recently performed a brake change on my vehicle. Following is what has been done since starting the fight.

Front and Rear Pads - Akebono ACT
Front and Rear Rotors - Brembo OEM Replacement
Front Driver and Front Passenger Side Calipers - Remanufactured Motorcraft Cores
Front Driver and Front Passenger Side Brake Hoses - O'Reilly Brake Best Brand (Motorcraft Parts were a few days delay)
Rear Driver Side Caliper (Original bracket - replacements are/were backordered) - Motorcraft

Most likely unrelated but in the area:
Front Driver Side Hub Assembly - (O'Reilly) Masterpro Brand [Hub was causing some additional noise when tested]
4WD Actuator - Standard Motor Products [Determined that IWEs were not releasing at the hubs; due to the solenoid failure; suspected to have been the root cause of the HUB. Replacing this freed up the steering on the vehicle which has always felt slightly stuck since buying at 59k miles, now at 92k.]

All of that being said, I am still running into the front calipers hanging slightly. Both of which appear to be originating from the upper piston (respectively) more so than both. When looking at the pad, you can see a slight opening/light passing through on the lower portion of the pad at the rotor, however, not on the upper.

I have taken the time to bleed the system multiple times to rule out air in the lines a potential cause, following the Ford Procedure. Each part replacement was done according to the Ford Procedure obtained through AlldataDIY. Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant was used in friction areas and to grease guide pins - all guide pins move freely without issue.

I am receiving no ABS or Brake System codes. I will note that the ABS Module Plug has a broken lever; however, it appears to be fully seated, or at least nearly fully seated. I was able to locate a replacement plug through the connectors manufacturer and one of their suppliers. For reference, the part number is: TE Connectivity 2209521-1 (1-2209521-1). I was able to order in single quantities through Mouser Electronics at roughly $16 shipped; vs the $1000 Motorcraft kit (KU2Z14S411AAA/WPT1612) which includes all green colored pre-pinned wires, heat shrink tubing and the replacement connector.

Has anyone run into a similar problem before, and if so, what was the issue, and how did you fix it? Additionally, recommendations on how to proceed will also be greatly appreciated.
 

w2db

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Don't know how similar your 2018 is to my 2013 brakes but we had a problem where the inner and outer pads look almost identical but if reversed cause one of them to hang. The pads we got had no inner/outer marking. The difference in the pad can be noticed by a couple of "humps" on the outer edge of the pad back plate. May or may not be the issue with yours but y'never know
 

BlackBetty

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Don't know how similar your 2018 is to my 2013 brakes but we had a problem where the inner and outer pads look almost identical but if reversed cause one of them to hang. The pads we got had no inner/outer marking. The difference in the pad can be noticed by a couple of "humps" on the outer edge of the pad back plate. May or may not be the issue with yours but y'never know
You nailed it!!! Was just about to explain that same thing. Yes, if you reverse them the “humps” get caught up inside the caliper, and will not allow for smooth operation.

The “hump” pad should be mounted on the inboard side with the holes in the top of the caliper. Doing the opposite will cause those “humps” to ride on top of the inside of the caliper; no bueno.
 
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KOMaynard

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You nailed it!!! Was just about to explain that same thing. Yes, if you reverse them the “humps” get caught up inside the caliper, and will not allow for smooth operation.

The “hump” pad should be mounted on the inboard side with the holes in the top of the caliper. Doing the opposite will cause those “humps” to ride on top of the inside of the caliper; no bueno.
I actually caught that issue before I got it back together. Mine has the ones with the ears on the inboard side at the pistons.

The bite from the pad is coming more so from the upper piston. On both sides of the car.

So for example, the piston across from the bleeder valve.
 
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