The truck seems to stop better, but thats all subjective, I have no data to back up that statement.
A low rumble would seem to me to be a wheel bearing, which I feel like a number of people have had replaced early on in life. The way I diagnose this is to find two freeway exits/onramps, one...
I noticed that my bottom caliper bolt was a little seized, so I pulled both pins out, wiped them off and then liberally applied anti-seize and reinstalled. #Cleveland
Reinstall the caliper and torque it down, then reinstall the wheel (after liberally applying anti-seize to the face of the rotor...
With the old pads removed, I used one to compress the pistons back into the caliper using a regular 6" C-clamp. Make sure you compress the pistons all the way - I did not on the first try and when reinstalling the caliper over the new pads one of the pistons would not clear a tab that was on...
I'm back with the next installment on how to save yourself $400 by replacing your own brakes - Front Pad edition. This time however I'm only replacing the pads as the rotors were fine.
Like the rears, this is an 8-bolt job - six lug nuts (21mm) and two caliper bolts (13mm). I did the second...
I didn't touch the brake fill cap, and I absolutely did not open the bleed valve - that ends badly for everyone and is unnecessary. The piston was super easy to compress - I didn't have to apply much torque on the tool at all and probably could have done it one handed if the caliper wasn't...
11. Now insert the pads into the mounting positions. I did the inside pad before the outside pad because it was easier to hold in place while mounting the front pad. Once the pads were on, I re-installed the (piston-compressed) caliper. Also, take note that the arrow on the pad with the word...
Home stretch:
9. Presuming you've successfully entered Parking Brake Maintenance Mode, you'll be able to use a standard caliper piston compressor to push the piston back in. No special tools required here, so don't worry about renting the kit from your part store.
10. Now its time to...
....and started scraping away the rust with the wire brush....
8. Again, its Cleveland and I intend to keep this truck for a while, hence anti-seize is your friend. You'll thank yourself later, just remember that antiseize has a magical ability to get on <everything>.
Reminder of the...
continued...
6. Now that the pads are off you should be able to remove the rotor. In my case, I could not get it to come off without seven or eight whacks with the pictured sledgehammer.
7. Once the caliper was off, I removed the brake pad mounting clips from the caliper mount.
...continued...
Theres a plastic boot that connects to the lower caliper bolt to hold the wiring harness in place, remove this so you can access the lower bolt.
5. After removing the caliper you'll be able to remove the pads using a flat blade screw driver.
...continued...
Didn't see a guide, so I figured I would contribute back to the community since I'm a frequent consumer of information here. Long story short, this is an easy job, by far the easiest brake job I've ever done. Eight total bolts to remove, six of which are lugnuts. Here we go!
1. Put the...
I disconnected the battery for about 30 minutes last night, initially this was unsuccessful. I held down the powerfold button for a couple seconds, the mirrors acted like they wanted to move but they were 'stuck'. I did this about 10 times and they finally re-synced and are working now. There...
So this issue has resurfaced. All of a sudden this week the power fold mirrors stopped working, and remote start from my keyfobs also stopped at the same time. Remote start from FordPass worked with no issues.
Remote start started working again today, but the mirrors still won't fold, it...
Hi Everyone-
I had the Expy in a few weeks back to have the mirrors reprogrammed so that they would stop the annoying full-extension pop issue. I just noticed this weekend that the mirrors no longer fold in when locking. Hit the lock button on the fob twice and nothing happens other than a...
I have the reverse of this - every now and again my truck won't actually shut down. I press the button to turn off and nothing happens. I reported this on my warranty service back in February but they were not able to replicate of course. I need to catch it on video...
Sent from my Pixel 3...
So I've had my 2018 XLT 202a w/TrailerTow for just north of 24 months and almost 30k miles. I've yet to take it into the shop for anything, but I'm going to do that in the next few weeks to get the process going on things that need to be fixed.
Here is my current list:
1. Cold Start Rattle...
correct, I was not towing for this trip. I do have the heavy duty tow package and figured that maybe it would be a good baseline to share. I just filled up on this last trip and from Lexington to Cleveland average 22.25 MPG. This was 95% freeway driving running 93 octane.
Sent from my Pixel 3...
Just finished a quick trip from Cleveland, OH to Gatlinburg, TN. First time I've ever manually measured mileage. I have a 2018 XLT with the HDTow package. We left CLE Sunday morning with a 1/2 tank which got us to Grove City on the south side of Columbus. Filled up there with 93, then...
I'm confused. Can't you just disable the engine-off feature in the 4" dashboard screen?
Clearly this product must be doing something else...enlighten me please.
I'm having this same issue in my 2018 with my Pixel 3. I've bought 3 different 'top of the line' cables, and the issue continues. I've cleaned the usb-c connector on my phone and same issue.
This is driving me crazy...I may end up RMA'ing my phone.
Has anyone heard anything about Ford...
My build date is 7/21/18 and the drain plug is metal.
You have to drop a debris shield to get to the drain plug, making what would otherwise be a simple job a pain in the ass.
ProTip: Don't completely remove the passenger rear heat shield screw, just loosen it (after removing the other...
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