@Black yes I've been debating the strongest way to mount this hybrid way. Like a slip on/in style like how hitch receivers are done or bolt on like wheels. Maybe a slip on with a bolt base?
The rear brake lines are a little tight at full drop. If you plan on yumping then try to find a set. When you do please post the part numbers so I can buy a set too.
I have that kit installed. I had the bumper replaced so I can't say how much trimming of the front is required. That said, I'm running 35x12.50r18 with 0 offset & get fender liner rub on turns when I hit dips or driveways. I had to trim the side steps in front & hammer the pinch weld flat. For...
Posting an update on the truck. I can't say that I can recommend the 35x12.5 tires unless it's for show. I've been to a few fabrication shops and body shops and I can't get the cuts where I want them or get flares done. 33s should work without an issue.
Also regarding the fuel mileage, I have to...
Oh I was talking about the other guys. This guy quoted me all that & was reasonable especially considering my custom requests.
I asked for a weld/bolt on hybrid. Something that would be functional but easily replaced/repaired if I kink them somehow.
I found a shop. He's going to make some sliders & a set of 4 steps that bolt to the sliders so when I'm away from the city I can remove the steps for greater ground clearance. I will be returning to him on April 8 & post pics when all done. Since it's a custom job it's expensive but not $6000...
Hey there, I would recommend calling Ranch hand directly & ask for an engineer. I've done this for my 2016 asking many manufacturers what mods would work. I went with buying a whole front bumper. Still looking for a rear bumper.
Why do they say not to run 4 high or low where there is good traction? We don't have any locking differentials & they're pretty much just open differentials right? Spin one tire & it keeps spinning.
I'm with @1955moose. Don't cheap out on the coupler. Those will start leaking before anything else due to us always dropping the end after disconnecting & the torque of holding the tool with the hose dangling away.
Don't try to have a uniform look on all the connections as the availability might...
If you take it to the dealer it'll be unavailable for a month & a half if it's my local dealer. Ask for a loaner.
The 1st item: as long as it's not clicking ir rattling like baseball card in bicycle spokes you're good.
2nd turbo waste gate?
3rd wat the heck?
4th have you checked the power...
I recommend going to the dealer. Bring all the keys you have, say you got a key stolen and remove all other keys from the system that are not present then ask for the printout that all other keys have had removed access.
If you are really concerned about future theft then also request the blades...
Putting an old battery in the car with battery problem doesn't help diagnostics. First check the battery voltage before starting. Then check that you are getting good charging current and voltage. Buy an amperage clamp if you don't have one. If that is not good then check your connections before...
If the dealer outsourced someone to repair it, there is a 12 month / 12,000 mile warranty on all repairs they do. Take it back & have them do it again & comp your rental for the frustration and inconvenience.
Make sure your light housing is fully seated before adjusting. The lower nipple sometimes can be tricky to get fully seated. I've removed each light no less than 5x in finding a good light bulb brightness.
I use android auto and plug my phone into the USB port. I will use the voice integration if Google maps and use waze on my phone (cup holder mount) to give me traffic alerts & I scroll around on that map at lights if it's really heavy. For the most part Google maps uses the same or very similar...
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