Sounds like you covered the full deal.
Make sure you do all the rockers in there, not just the ones that are starting to go bad....
While your into the valvetrain, check the camshaft journals as well.
How many miles?
I don't see a need for a new starter, the car starts perfectly fine, right?
The dealer is most likely trying to tell you that a re-program will fix the trans issue. I would just disconnect the battery overnight and let the car reset, then reconnect it in the morning and perform a drive cycle...
I know there was an issue with the 5.4L, where the rocker arms can pop up off the valve stems, and will sit in well of the cylinder head.
If you get lucky, one of the intake rockers will fall off, which will leave you with one intake and one exhaust functioning.
While that will work, it will...
I don't think Forscan can program mileage, plus I'm sure you need special software because odometer tampering is Federal crime....I don't think they would let a free program like Forscan be able to do that. Although who knows these days......
In this case, a dealeship would be your best bet...
Is the compressor just not turning on? Or does it engage and then lock up soon.
You can use a program called Forscan, via the OBD II Port, which will give you self-demand tests.
There should be a test that makes the PCM tell the A/C Compressor Clutch to engage, even when the engine is off...
Any codes? The CEL won't light up for transmission issues, unless its a big issue.
Speedometer maxing out probably means its getting a short circuit somewhere/bad connection.
I would check the wiring for the main TCM connector that's on the back of the transmission.
Did the TCM get...
Only thing I can think of is that there's a short in one of the wires inside the door, causing this to happen.
Does it move when you press a button? Or do you just type in the code and it moves to a random position?
You can try performing a hard reset on the SYNC System, I've done this before and it worked:
- Press and hold the Power button and the "seek right" button for 10 seconds.
I had Front O2 sensor codes on my 2019 Expedition, P2237 & P2240, "circuit low"
All the sensors checked out good, MPG was good and no drivability issues.
I ended up just replacing the oxygen sensors and no CEL for the last 30k miles.
You're issue might be indicating a failing O2 Sensor, just...
Parts look good, although I second @max78 answer.
I personally would try to look for an OEM used compressor, low miles that's in good condition.
You can find them pretty cheap and OEM compressors will usually last forever when treated properly
2010 Expedition of my own, 244k w/ original A/C...
How many miles?
Could be possible that it was in need of a timing job, and it managed to jump timing while driving.
Not enough to make valves meet pistons, but enough for it to not fire....
Worst case scenario though.
The Rear A/C Lines become problematic because the body mounts wear out on the car.
Most of the time what happens is the body mounts get worn, and vehicle body drops a little bit. Since the lines are attached to the body, the lines will droop until the touch the frame or heat shield or...
If I remember correctly, its mounted on the top of the fuel tank, right near the fuel pump.
The tank will have to be dropped in order to access it.
The misfires, coupled w/ P0451 may explain the issues; false pressure readings causing EVAP system to dump excess fuel vapors into combustion...
Looks like a heater line.
Those are common leak points on the Gen 4 Expeditions. if they haven't been changed on yours, I'm sure they are the culprit for the leak.
Where the heater lines enter the firewall, check and see if the metal crimp around the lines is splitting, that is the first sign...
Any codes for the transmission?
I would first try resetting the battery and PCM by jumping the cables: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZAsoqmqhdM
Seems more like an electrical issue than a mechanical issue.....
Joe
Unhooking the battery constantly just resets the computer, as well as your MPG and radio presets.
Not really an issue until you bring it for emissions inspection, unhooking the battery resets the codes and makes you drive the car 50 miles or so until it's ready for inspection.
I apologize, I must have missed the notification for this message...
The Timing Kit cost $600 from Amazon, it was sold by a Ford Dealer online and was all Ford OEM Parts.
This included: 2 Phasers, 2 New Phaser Bolts, 1 New Crank Sprocket, 2 Timing Chains, all the guides and tensioner arms, 2...
I have a 2010 EL w/ 240k
It developed a startup rattle and phaser tick at 215k, so I replaced all timing parts. Been running good ever since.
No transmission issues either.
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