03 Eddie Bauer all kinds of A/C issues lately

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SteveP

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Hello all,
A while back I was having an issue where the front A/C was working intermittently. It would come on cool for a few minutes, then kind of go away, and come back on etc. Someone here mentioned it is most likely a vaccuum leak, so I found one under the hood(think it was a hose that plugged into a black plastic diaphragm looking thing up near the firewall. So since I stuck that back on and hot glued it from sliding loose again, the front A/C has been working pretty good, but still some odd behavior like I can feel air at my feet. So anyways, this car is an extra car, and I normally take it get big/heavy things, so don't normally have rear passengers, especially this past year or two. Well, we went on a family trip a couple weeks ago and took this for the extra room and the kids mentioned a clicking coming from the rear and the A/C wasn't very cold(but it wasn't really hot up in the mountains so it wasn't that big a deal). Fast forward to this past weekend and took it again on a road trip with the family and dogs in the back. Again the kids complained of the clicking and the A/C blowing warmish air and sometimes kind of cool. I messed with all the controls and could sometimes get it stay "cool" but nowhere near as cool as the front. And it was in the 90s most of the drive so the kids were miserable. Once we got to the in-laws, I searched the problem and found it was likely the rear blend door actuator. Found the part on Amazon but even with prime it would not arrive until after we got back home from our trip. Dealer there didn't have it. SO I opened up the back and took the actuators out and popped them open to see the gears etc. The blend door actuator had a stripped gear which makes sense on that part. The other actuator which i believe is called the mode actuator? That one wen I opened it up and had my brother-in-law mess with the switches noticed it moved back and forth but would not stop when it came to the end and basically kind ripped its gears off the pin, even with me trying to hold the gear down. So I stuck the actuators back in and had my BiL mess with all the knobs while I tried differeent settings and could feel rthe flaps move, and gotr it to where the air was coming out the roof vents and the air was the coolest. So now I need to know what I actually need to order, here is where things stand:

1. Blend door actuator. Stripped gear, but works. Order new one or just gear? Amazon has a new gear for $16 or actuator for $35
2. Mode actuator, moves but doesn't stop when out of car. Does being in place make it stop? Or should I replace?
3. Air in rear not as cold as front, quite a bit different temp. Is the flap maybe bent? Will a new actuator hold it closed more? Something else? I noticed there seems to be hoses and a separate evaporator etc for the rear.
4. Air at my feet no matter what. If I set it to floor I can feel the cold air blast my feet, but when I move it to upper only I still feel some air at my feet quite noticably. Other than the that the air up front is plenty cold, even when driving through 100 degree areas last weekend.
5. Charge port had slow leak a couple years ago and would need to be refilled. I charged it with freon with dye and found the leak to be at the charge port valve stem, but taking out the stem would let out all freon. So, Last year I charged it with some freon that had "leak seal" and that seems to have fixed the leak. Could having a leak for a while caused air or something to get in lines making rear not work as well?

Thanks and sorry for the long read.
 

Hamfisted

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The rear actuator will hold the blend door where it needs to be. If you go to the trouble of removing the rear quarter panel cover to access one actuator, I would definitely replace both at that time.
There is a AC valve stem tool that allows you to replace the valve stem without losing the freon from the system. Or it's possible the valve core is not tight and just needs to be snugged down. Most AC shops have the tool. As long as the system has been under positive freon pressure, and never completely empty, outside atmospheric air is not going to enter the system. The system may suffer a loss of oil over time though. So if your compressor is abnormally noisy you may want to add some PAG oil to the system.


Mastercool Valve Core Replacement Tool R134 on Amazon


Motorcraft part numbers shown ....

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SteveP

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Thanks for the help so far. Interesting to know about that tool though it boggles my mind how it can work and not lose freon lol! I did try tightening it with a tool I have for valve stems. One thing I was having trouble with when I looked a year or so ago was what size these things take. If I remember correctly there were several Ford used so I didn't want to order a bunch of wrong parts.

Also if that is the case then any idea why the rear AC would be so much warmer than the front air?
 

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