07 5.4 expedition rough idles in park and in gear

[lando_l44]

Hey guys looking for some help. So i just replaced my radiator and a coil that was bad. Now when i start the truck it rough idles and when i put into gear it nearly wants to move..i tried replacing the Maf sensor and that made no difference. Could i have unplugged something or what not when disassembling to get the radiator out? I checked all plugs and wiring on the coil and plugs and everything is tight and secure. Looking for some direction or should i tow it to a dealer? Thanks

 

[lando_l44]

Hey guys looking for some help. So i just replaced my radiator and a coil that was bad. Now when i start the truck it rough idles and when i put into gear it nearly wants to move..i tried replacing the Maf sensor and that made no difference. Could i have unplugged something or what not when disassembling to get the radiator out? I checked all plugs and wiring on the coil and plugs and everything is tight and secure. Looking for some direction or should i tow it to a dealer? Thanks

Also when you turn the ac on it gets worse and you can smell coolant in the engine bay after it idles but i can’t find any signs of leaks

 

[Andy Rubalcaba]

watcha mean it nearly wants to move? is the RPM spiking up when you go into gear? kind of sounds like a temp idle control sensor ( w/e they would call it for these trucks, I dealt with it and learned the kind of issue for my land rover but the pars are named different ). I believe a crankshaft position sensor ( again, rover had one ) could also effect it but for my rover it was night and day when I installed a idle control valve replacement ( symptoms are opposite, where in park the RPM's climb and climb quickly and in gear it nearly stalls out ). i'm not super familiar with how the ford is setup for that kind of thing, but on the rover there is a idle speed screw, it's an allen hex bolt head and you just adjust the truck's base idle, but i'm not sure if the ford has such a thing or not.

may be useless info, may be the right path, hope more chime in.

 

[lando_l44]

watcha mean it nearly wants to move? is the RPM spiking up when you go into gear? kind of sounds like a temp idle control sensor ( w/e they would call it for these trucks, I dealt with it and learned the kind of issue for my land rover but the pars are named different ). I believe a crankshaft position sensor ( again, rover had one ) could also effect it but for my rover it was night and day when I installed a idle control valve replacement ( symptoms are opposite, where in park the RPM's climb and climb quickly and in gear it nearly stalls out ). i'm not super familiar with how the ford is setup for that kind of thing, but on the rover there is a idle speed screw, it's an allen hex bolt head and you just adjust the truck's base idle, but i'm not sure if the ford has such a thing or not.

may be useless info, may be the right path, hope more chime in.

It bearly wants to move can’t find the right word to use lol….and the rpm bogs down in gear.i had an issue like this long again in a f-150 and it was the maf sensor, i changed the one and same issue. It gets worse with the ac on for some reason

 

[Andy Rubalcaba]

It bearly wants to move can’t find the right word to use lol….and the rpm bogs down in gear.i had an issue like this long again in a f-150 and it was the maf sensor, i changed the one and same issue. It gets worse with the ac on for some reason

yeah that bogging sounds like either an issue with an idle control valve part ( causing irregular air mix which would cause a rough idle, running rich or lean ) or a vacuum leak. do you hear any hissing sounds with the hood open?

 

[Hamfisted]

Can you drive it around the block or so and get it to trigger the check engine light, then read the DTC code. Did you unplug any fuel injectors or other coils when you did your work ? Hear any vacuum leaks ?

 

[lando_l44]

Can you drive it around the block or so and get it to trigger the check engine light, then read the DTC code. Did you unplug any fuel injectors or other coils when you did your work ? Hear any vacuum leaks ?

I didn’t try around the block i tried backing it out and it was sputtering so i put in drive and rolled it back into garage. I’ll try and drive it around later today when there’s not much traffic going around the neighborhood…and as far as hissing sounds i can’t hear anything really hiss

 

[Trainmaster]

How did you determine the bad coil? When were the plugs changed? As Ham says, try to get this thing to give you a code. Sounds like you have a miss or a big vacuum leak. Andy says look for sucking sounds which would show a vacuum leak. And don't rule out that the "new" coil is bad. Some of the cheap ones are bad out of the box. You could have two bad coils now.

 

[lando_l44]

How did you determine the bad coil? When were the plugs changed? As Ham says, try to get this thing to give you a code. Sounds like you have a miss or a big vacuum leak. Andy says look for sucking sounds which would show a vacuum leak. And don't rule out that the "new" coil is bad. Some of the cheap ones are bad out of the box. You could have two bad coils now.

I replaced the coil because i had issues with a coolant leak from the radiator and a hose and some pooled on/around the coil. So i undid it to clean it off and make sure none got inside the cylinder area and when i pulled the coil off-the spring inside that makes contact with the spark plug pulled out and broke so i replaced it

 

[Trainmaster]

The 2007 had the notorious "two-part" spark plugs that are hard has **** to remove. It's quite possible they were never ever changed. Drive it and try to get it to give you a code. If it's any code involving a miss, get at least one plug out to look at its condition and consider changing them all. That's the simplist place to start.

Some better code readers will give you a "balance" reading that will tell you exactly which cylinders are misfiring and how often. That would save you from pulling a plug to check or trying to get an OBD code out of it.