150K oil report

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cmiles97

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That reports looks great for your engine. How about the rest of the SUV? Any issues besides paint bubbling to prevent?
 
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That reports looks great for your engine. How about the rest of the SUV? Any issues besides paint bubbling to prevent?

Like all of my previous Fords, suspension components have the primary issue in terms of reliability. After 3 rear struts blew, I replaced with Bilstein 4600s and haven't had an issue there since. In the front I had an axle seal go on the passenger side a few weeks ago and I have a wheel hub assembly that needs to be replaced on the driver side.

Aside from that, the only other issues have been with the extras. The original power running boards failed. One replacement failed completely and the other is on its way out. The power sunroof guides broke. The climate controlled seats stopped working years ago. The driver side window sounds terrible (another common Ford issue) and surely needs a motor/regulator. Like grandpa used to say, more options just means more to break. He had manual windows by choice right up to the last car he ever owned. :D
 

rjdelp7

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Read your manual. It calls for (ford part#)XO5w20QSP motor oil. That is syn-blend, not conventional. You spent $25 on oil analysis, but use cheapo oil?
 

16plati

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Read your manual. It calls for (ford part#)XO5w20QSP motor oil. That is syn-blend, not conventional. You spent $25 on oil analysis, but use cheapo oil?
May have used cheap oil but apparently it’s working for him. Blackstone is top notch and knows what they are doing. Apparently OP does as well
 

bobmbx

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Read your manual. It calls for (ford part#)XO5w20QSP motor oil. That is syn-blend, not conventional. You spent $25 on oil analysis, but use cheapo oil?
Maybe you're overspending on oil?
 
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Read your manual. It calls for (ford part#)XO5w20QSP motor oil. That is syn-blend, not conventional. You spent $25 on oil analysis, but use cheapo oil?

First, my manual lists a number of recommended oils, one of which is a conventional oil. It also indicates that any oil meeting spec WSS-M2C930-A (ILSAC GF-4) is acceptable, which pretty much any conventional oil does. See for yourself.

oilt.jpg

Second, I can get synthetic for free (after rebate) most of the time whereas I am never able to get conventional for free. I use conventional primarily because that is what was always used in this vehicle (I am the second owner) and I don't want to deal with any leaks that might arise from switching to a synthetic. (No, I am not saying synthetic causes the leaks. I just want to make that clear for any fool that is aiming to put words in my mouth.)

Third, I have researched the topic to death and have found no evidence to suggest synthetic offers any improvements in longevity unless the aim is for 400K plus. As much as I would love to keep my truck that long, I know that the truck will rust out long before I get anywhere near there. By the 15-20 year mark she will be so rusted out she won't pass state inspection.

In any case, you can see the engine is doing just fine with conventional oil and 5W-20 no less. You can obsess over conventional vs synthetic and 20 vs 30 if you'd like, but I stand by my position that it's largely irrelevant as long as you do timely oil changes and aren't aiming to drive the vehicle forever.
 

rjdelp7

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First, my manual lists a number of recommended oils, one of which is a conventional oil. It also indicates that any oil meeting spec WSS-M2C930-A (ILSAC GF-4) is acceptable, which pretty much any conventional oil does. See for yourself.

oilt.jpg

Second, I can get synthetic for free (after rebate) most of the time whereas I am never able to get conventional for free. I use conventional primarily because that is what was always used in this vehicle (I am the second owner) and I don't want to deal with any leaks that might arise from switching to a synthetic. (No, I am not saying synthetic causes the leaks. I just want to make that clear for any fool that is aiming to put words in my mouth.)

Third, I have researched the topic to death and have found no evidence to suggest synthetic offers any improvements in longevity unless the aim is for 400K plus. As much as I would love to keep my truck that long, I know that the truck will rust out long before I get anywhere near there. By the 15-20 year mark she will be so rusted out she won't pass state inspection.

In any case, you can see the engine is doing just fine with conventional oil and 5W-20 no less. You can obsess over conventional vs synthetic and 20 vs 30 if you'd like, but I stand by my position that it's largely irrelevant as long as you do timely oil changes and aren't aiming to drive the vehicle forever.
WRONG. Read it again. The last column Ford part#/FORD SPECIFICATION! Ford XO-5w20-QSP, WSS-M2C930 that is syn-blend. Ford probably knows more about there engines, than you do.
 
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WRONG. Read it again. The last column Ford part#/FORD SPECIFICATION! Ford XO-5w20-QSP, WSS-M2C930 that is syn-blend. Ford probably knows more about there engines, than you do.

There appears to be an issue with your reading comprehension. The image is in front of you and lists a conventional oil. Furthermore, it indicates specs (WSS-M2C930-A / ILSAC GF-4) that - despite your confusion - do not indicate a synthetic blend.

Again, those specs are satisfied by - at the very least - every mainstream conventional oil on the market. Here is Quaker State's 5W-20 conventional oil TDS, which indicates it meets those specs. You will find the same indication on all of the mainstream conventional oils.
 

Scott Carden

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I use motorcraft 5w-30 here in Texas because of the heat here and the oil is cheap as you can buy at Walmart.
Those electric running boards are an easy fix. They all seize up because of lack of internal lubrications. Take them off and drill a small hole in the gearbox squirt it full of motor oil, any brand and then tread a screw in the hole. Now put the hole in a smart spot so you don’t have to take the boards off again to get to it. I used a small Allen screw and put oil in mine once a year. I still have the original set on mine.
 

rjdelp7

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There appears to be an issue with your reading comprehension. The image is in front of you and lists a conventional oil. Furthermore, it indicates specs (WSS-M2C930-A / ILSAC GF-4) that - despite your confusion - do not indicate a synthetic blend.

Again, those specs are satisfied by - at the very least - every mainstream conventional oil on the market. Here is Quaker State's 5W-20 conventional oil TDS, which indicates it meets those specs. You will find the same indication on all of the mainstream conventional oils.
What are you looking at? I see Premium syn-blend and Super Premium full synthetic. Syn-blend has been an industry standard for Ford over a decade. M2C930-A is an obsolete, 'minimum performance requirement'. The dealer uses syn-blend, unless synthetic is requested. My Craftsman lawn tractor, recommends synthetic. The 5.4l 3V needs proper and religious maintenance.
 

jeff kushner

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As always Manup, we appreciate you posting these reports as others do. It's helpful to reinforce that "if you take care of it, it takes care of you".

Hate to break it to you guys but other smarter-than-me guys will agree, any of those oils, changed regularly along with the filter, will take good care of your engine....it's analogous to "playing semantics"....it's the clean oil that really matters, more than the type....fwiw

jeff

I did not mean to set off an avalanche...oil threads are dangerous
 

Plati

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As always Manup, we appreciate you posting these reports as others do. It's helpful to reinforce that "if you take care of it, it takes care of you".

Hate to break it to you guys but other smarter-than-me guys will agree, any of those oils, changed regularly along with the filter, will take good care of your engine....it's analogous to "playing semantics"....it's the clean oil that really matters, more than the type....fwiw

jeff

I did not mean to set off an avalanche...oil threads are dangerous
I agree with Jeff (on this one LOL). However, its my opinion from reading things over the years that synthetic oils lubrication is superior to conventional oil. It might be that its better able to withstand higher heat, less likely to breakdown over time, something else - not sure!

So I don't think you can go wrong (except for the additional cost) of going full or semi synthetic. I also don't think you're going to have an issue with conventional oil. I've run conventional oil 5W20 in my Expy 5.4 engines since 1999 and it has performed well.

I also am convinced that MUOSU is correct on the spec & owners manual, from googling a bit. Oddly enough my 2003 Expy owners manual calls for 5W20 Premium synthetic.
 

JExpedition07

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I always use the Motor-craft synthetic blend stuff and ford filter, just changed it yesterday. Pretty cheap, cost $42 altogether to do it myself.
 
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