175k miles and becoming the Daily Driver - things to consider?

[rice_classic]

My 2003 5.4L is my heavy lifter/tow-vehicle but it's about to become my daily driver and I have some concerns with this being my daily. I want to make sure I start planning for what could fail and do some preventative stuff to keep it reliable.

I bought it with 150k and did a tune up including: Brakes, all fluids/filters, spark plugs, pcv, rear hvac motors and rear window regulators/motors. Everything currently works. I was going to buy another truck/suv in the 20k range but I figured it'd be a lot cheaper to spend $1-3k now and some elbow grease and avoid another monthly payment.

I'm thinking:
* U-Joints
* Axles
* ball joints
* Coil packs (just did cyl4 - planning on doing the rest)
* hoses?
* Wheel bearings?

For those of you with high-mileage Expeditions, what have you encountered, what do you recommend?

I want 2 more reliable years and of course - reliable road trips.

Thank you.

 

[deweysmith]

I sound like a broken record, but I don't believe in changing the coils preventatively. You can keep a spare coil pack in the trunk if you want, but don't change them unless they fail. They don't wear out, if they've lasted this long they won't stop working unless they get water in them or something like that. You're more likely to get a dud from the factory that dies after 10k miles than you are to have one die on you out of the blue.

Listen to your idler pulleys and your tensioner with a stethoscope. If they're making noise, I'd change them. Maybe your belt while you're in there

 

[1997SCEBFEX]

my .02:
Idle Air Controller
Throttle Position Sensor
Shocks
Front end links and torsion bar bushings
You mentioned fluids: thermostat:
How old is battery?
Any stored codes, or did you address them?

Good luck.

 

[rice_classic]

Thanks for the responses.

Battery is less than 2 years old, shocks still working correctly and codes have been cleared due to misfire in cyl 4 that was corrected with a new coil pack. When I bought the thing I put in new spark plugs and in the process cleaned up the coil packs.

I was so focused on the drive train I neglected to really think about the engine beyond the coil packs. I will take the advice - I have a spare new one and I will hold off on replacing them.

I was not aware that the TPS's or IACs go bad on these. Those are easy to replace and easy too to add to the cart.

Idle pulley, tensioner and belt are cheap and somewhat easy so I might as well just do those along with a thermostat.

Front end links: I figured everything with a joint is probably tired: Tie rod, ball joints, end links etc. They aren't making noise and I do have a desire for aftermarket sway bars so maybe I'll do ball joints at the same time.

 

[Bain64]

What about wheel bearings? '03 checking in here with 206k miles, just bought the truck from a family member a couple months back, and I needed both front wheel bearings. If you crank the wheel to near lock while turning, do you get any grinding noise? Check both directions. When you lift the front wheels off the ground, check for play. I wouldn't change them preemptively, but something to inspect while you're checking front suspension.

Edit.. I see now that you mention wheel bearings in the original post.. I'll leave this because if you're nearing 200k on originals you may be close to new bearings as well.

 

[rice_classic]

I'm kind of doing a cost-benefit of analysis of keeping an old high-mileage truck vs buying something new(ish) which would be in the 20-25k range.

I figured I would spend up to $2k on parts (work performed by myself) and up to $1500 for anything I may want a shop to do. This way I can save myself from spending $20-25k (plus $2.5k on taxes) on a new/used truck for a couple years. So I can/could replace all my wheel bearings, tie rod ends and ball joints including sway bar links and drive shaft u-joints in that price range. The feedback here has been good in directing toward some items I never considered and other items I didn't know where weak points.

 

[06 Eddie]

At this point if your tuned up within 25K miles and you haven't identified any problems or complaints I would go with "if it aint broke don't fix it". I also have a high mileage 06 EB (201K) and with the age and miles I realized there will be problems that will come up any time and anywhere. Looks like you tuned it up not long ago but I'd just keep that going every 20-30K miles and just deal with issues as they come. I've found that preemptive maintenance that's not needed can get you into the new car payment territory over the course of a year which like me seems you are looking to avoid.

 

[plumcolr]

Just returned from Fla with my 06 with 193k on the clock, pulling a small enclosed trailer. It is also my daily driver. 2200 mile round trip. Lost the alternator. If you get whiny static in AM radio yours may be due, watch it.

Changed all coil packs on mine a while back when the started failing (3 had failed). Got a set of 8 heavy duty from summit for $155.

Has new springs / shox but otherwise original suspension and steering are in good shape. Have replaced one front and one rear wheel bearing in the past, and of course brakes, and change belt every 50K.

Depending on how far you drive daily I wouldn't worry too much about it. Gas mileage will be your biggest expense.

 

[OldExpy]

I would check that the brake lines aren't rusting through.

 

[WakeZone]

Agree with all the above, I'm at 195k on an 03, 5.4L daily driver. I have not replaced all ignition coils but I have replaced a few coils more than once. Usually use OE coils and I'm convinced certain cylinder positions see more heat in the engine compartment and don't last as long.

Recently replaced a few dry rotted hoses around the engine along with the vapor canister purge solenoid on the firewall. Hoses are heat and calendar time dependant items so just watch them for cracking. Purge solenoid was failed in the closed position causing vapors to back up in the canister but had no driveabililty issues. After replacing all suspect hoses and gas cap, still got an EVAP very small leak code and a wiff of gas by the cap every now and then. Took me forever to track down that issue.

Watch out for roof rust, I've found that catching it early then repairing with fiberglass layup works pretty well. Those roof gutter ends seem to disintegrate quick if you're anywhere near the coast.

Good luck and enjoy your Expy.

 

[plumcolr]

Good point about the brake lines. I had one steel line pinhole (trans cooler line) where it went thru a plastic clip. Very worth checking.

 

[1955moose]

Brake lines are an easy replace, especially with all the vendors out there. You can coat the outside of your lines to protect them. I too live near San Fran, and noticed my back passenger side started to bubble. I've already had to repair sections above overhead console. Who puts divets on a roof to let salty water to pool, recipe for disaster. If they would make roof flat/rounded, water would roll off, not pool. I agree with others, maintenance items only, don't go overboard, and no to coils, boots only.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[rjdelp7]

I purchased my 2000 XLT in 2008, with 78K for $6000. I am guessing, over the years. I put another $5000-5500 in it. It now has 104K and is a second vehicle. Something breaks or wears out, on a regular basis. It has been a battle, keeping up with it. It gets 11mpg and has unimpressive power. Newer vehicles, have improved in that area. However, it is great in snow and I have no car payment. It has been a good vehicle and I have no plans of getting rid of it anytime soon.

 

[Trainmaster]

A very good thread. Inspect the things that will lay you up: Brake lines, trans lines, hoses. The only preventative replacement I'd do are the idler, tension pulleys and belt. They can freeze up at 2 AM on the interstate and send the belt flying off. Or carry a set and tools. Then just stay on top of things.

My 2000 has 220K miles on it without too much trouble. Everything works because I fix it when it breaks. The worst jobs over the years were a steering box with hoses, transmission cooler lines and an exhaust manifold which rotted.

 

[Dan Braithwaite]

Very important but often overlooked until you can’t start it is to change the fuel filter. It always plugs up when you are away from your tools!