1997 expy electric fan install

[Bowesmobile]

Nice work on the shroud! Looks good!

So last night I was very hopeful to finish my install. But I ran into a few problems.

The first problem is the trans. lines. If you have a 1997 and you order the radiator in the link I posted. You will need an adapter to up-size the trans lines. On 1998 and later (I believe) they used a 3/8" line which would be a 5/8"" fitting. The older 1997's used a 3/8" line with a 1/2" fitting. But I have not been able to confirm that. It should be a simple adapter from one size to another. I'll find out more after my trip to the parts store. If anyone has good information on these sizes I would really appreciate knowing them before I go into the parts store tonight.

The second problem I came across is this. In my research for this I came across this thread http://www.expeditionforum.com/f42/e-fan-16738/ and in post #14 it is said that there is a 3/8" NPT port on the drivers side trans flange. My 1997 does not have this. There were two ports I found. One directly under the motor mount drivers side, and one on the back of the head drivers side. I could see them but could not get a wrench into those locations to use them. My solution is much more simple. The intake has two sensors in the coolant path on the left side. The furthest left one is 3/8" NPT. I am going to Lowes and buying these parts. (1) 3/8" NPT brass pipe fitting Shop Watts 3/8-in Brass Pipe Fitting at Lowes.com and one 3/8" NPT brass tee Shop Watts 3/8-in Brass Pipe Fitting at Lowes.com. This puts the switches in the same port and give place for both. Plus that cooling path is right before it goes into the radiator. I my opinion its a good place to read temps from for my switch. I may have to add a grounding band. But we'll see.

So now this bumps up my cost roughly $15. Hopefully this helps someone else.

 

[Bowesmobile]

I finished the project tonight. I still have a few loose ends.

I tried hooking into the high pressure switch for turning on the high speed fan when the A/C is turned on. But since the controller is activated by ground, every time the connection to that switch was plugged in the fans came on. So I have to find another grounding switch to turn the high side on with the A/C.

The next problem was finding a port to connect the Be-cool switch. I used the "Tee" and connected the stock temp sensor to one side and the be-cool switch to the other. But the probes are so long you have to be careful not to thread them in too close together or it will trip the Be-cool switch. Also I had to run the motor up to temperature and back the one switch out slowly to prime the "tee" and get the air bubble out. It was something that you should do with someone ready to turn the engine off in-case it sprays. Also something you do with the cap off and you take it VERY slow.

The last problem I resolved was the trans line connections. This one I was concerned about. I could not find an adapter to go from the 3/8" NPT to whatever that size was. No one seems to even know what size they might have put on there and I dont care either. I just unscrewed the old ones and replaced them with the units from my original radiator. Problem solved.

I will update it with pictures but I am tired from a long day. Enjoy.

 

[Bowesmobile]

Here are some more pictures of the install. This one is the switch I used for my fan override and my 6" lights. I paid $5 for 5 of these off Ebay.

This was me sliding the radiator fan assembly in place.

I'll have to retake this picture with some better light to show the clearance I gain from the fan motors to the engine. It also shows that I wrapped the wiring in corrugated plastic to look more factory.

This is the Volvo fan controller. I plan on moving the mounting so I left some extra wire for that move. For now its secure and works in the position its in.

This is what I thought the 3/8" npt port was at the trans flange. Turns out, its not. It a oil passageway. The part I'm looking at in this picture is the hex plug right behind the EGR tube on the top left of the pic.

 

[Mediamonkey11]

Great work, looks awesome!

Are you at all worried about the lack of flow over the temp sensors due to the fact they're no longer in the coolant "path"? Is that now going to be a spot for any bubbles in the system to seek out and live causing problems?

 

[Bowesmobile]

That's something I have already battled with. I had to back the coolant temp sensor out with the truck running and my friend in the drivers seat, waiting to shut the truck off if it sprayed. It bled some of the air out. But the dash sensor still doesn't work. The switch for the fans does. So to me that means coolant is getting to both sensors. I had thought about drilling and tapping a bleed off valve into the top of the "t". We'll see what I do. Right now I have to get the air bag light off and get it inspected so I can drive it again.

Something I forgot to add is its amazing how much air these fans move! I can feel the air getting sucked in with my hand on the grille. With both fans running there is a BIG difference in air temp between the two fans. Feeling from behind the passenger side fan to feeling behind the drivers side fan. These shouldn't have any problems cooling my truck pulling whatever I decide tow.

 

[Mediamonkey11]

How much or little modification was necessary to fit the fans with shroud onto the radiator? Do you know if it's the same for the 5.4l?

I'm curious as to why the dash sensor is inop though... bad connection?

 

[Bowesmobile]

It is exactly the same for the 5.4L. So everything I did you can copy over to the 5.4L. The only real hiccup were the trans line fittings. I'm still at a loss as to why they were different. Also why I couldn't find a adapter from one line nut size to the other. The line size from 1997-2003 is 3/8" trans line. So why would the nut size be different. On all the part store sites the radiators are the same number.

I'm thinking I may have gotten a bad sensor. I'm also going to check the connector and make sure everything is good there.

 

[Mediamonkey11]

I may have missed it earlier, but does the Volvo relay have dual high speed inputs, meaning for high temp and for a/c?

I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have to change out the rad though, mine's listed as having "super engine cooling" per the vin decoder...?

 

[Bowesmobile]

You could wire it that way. It would have to ground to the A/C system and then to a high temp grounding sensor mounted in the coolant flow. Both wires would go to connector one or two depending on what your high speed fan is wired to. I'm making one more upgrade to my system. You have to use a relay and wire it to ground instead of power. Then wire it to the high pressure side switch for the trigger on the relay to activate the high speed fan when the A/C comes on. When I've done that I'll post that write up as well.

 

[Mediamonkey11]

Ok, sounds good. Why the high pressure switch instead of running whenever the compressor comes on? Wouldn't that only activate once the a/c system shuts down due to a high pressure cutoff?

 

[Bowesmobile]

Because the clutch does not stay on constantly. It cycles on and off meaning the fan would cycle the same way. The pressure switch is a better place to read from because its constantly powered when the system is active.

 

[mbaessler]

Jay have you done any visual calibration with the factory temperature gauge? With your edge how much does the temperature go above operating temperature before the factory guage shows some movement and how much.
Mike

 

[Bowesmobile]

It is completely finished! I used a relay and connected the trigger connector to the red wire on the high pressure switch for the A/C. I then connected the ground for the relay and jumped that connector to the power feed for the relay. Then ran the light/horn/fan feed connector to the trigger for the fan controller. Every time I turn the A\C on the fans both come on. Works awesome! I checked the override switch inside and everything works as it should! I'll get pics up soon.

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

Because the clutch does not stay on constantly. It cycles on and off meaning the fan would cycle the same way. The pressure switch is a better place to read from because its constantly powered when the system is active.

I would wire the ac input to run the fan on normal speed then have the high speed on the temperature. also, if you do it right you could use a NC relay on the other side of the high side switch. when the switch hits high pressure, power is cut from the other wire and the relay closes starting the high speed fan to boost airflow.

 

[Bowesmobile]

I would wire the ac input to run the fan on normal speed then have the high speed on the temperature. also, if you do it right you could use a NC relay on the other side of the high side switch. when the switch hits high pressure, power is cut from the other wire and the relay closes starting the high speed fan to boost airflow.

Thats certainly another way to do it. Try it and let us know how it works! I may change my set-up over if its a better way.