2000 XLT Driver Window

[sphillips]

My Expy electric window goes up and down fine, but makes a ratcheting sound each direction. Anyone have a parts exploded view of the mechanism in the door?

Thx

steve

 

[sphillips]

My Expy electric window goes up and down fine, but makes a ratcheting sound each direction. Anyone have a parts exploded view of the mechanism in the door?

Thx

steve

Any thoughts here folks, on what is causing the noise? Would rather know what to expect inside before I tear into it.

Thx, Steve

 

[grantpa]

My '00 EB does something similar. It's kind of a jerky 'sound' but the window goes up and down smoothly enough. I'd like to figure this out also.

 

[AlfilRey]

It is necessary to remove the inner cover of the door, and to activate the switches, and to hear where the noise comes from. Probably the gears of the electric motor that up and down the window, they are worn, not enough to not work, but it can be.

 

[juan214]

DO NOT wait until it stops working. It is easier to diagnose now while it works then when it's not. It a lot easier to take apart. 1997 - 2002 should all be gear driven.

 

[juan214]

Usually it's the driver's door that goes first. Blew when they had the old toll booths.

• The regulator for the window would be making crunching sound if the glass was ever broken and not properly cleaned. Evidence would leave bits of glass at the bottom of the door. If there is black undercoating in the bottom of the door that's another sign that the glass was broken. It keeps the rattling down once the glass has dried to it.
• If it's gear driven and it sounds like clicking is within the same amount of milliseconds of each other then the gear(s) between the motor and regulator as stripping or loose. Remove and inspect replace faulty part(s). Replace the regulator if it's stripped. If the visual inspection looks good (no stripped gear(s) then the issue may be inside the motor as in stripped (rebuilt or replace).
• If it's cable driven and it sounds like crackling its the cable binding up on itself on motor pulley and or regulator. If it's frayed, split, started to separate it will make sporadic sounds. Eventually it will stop work midway at some point when it completely binds up. Remove and inspect replace faulty part(s).

 

[juan214]

Door Pad Removal Expedition / F-150:

Writing this from memory... can be done in any order the result is the same.

1. Remove Phillips head screws at bottom of pad.
2. Pry up on trim behind black door handle from the front and slide it forward.
3. Spin the trim 90 degrees
4. Remove bolt (10mm ?)
5. Pry up on door panel control(s) usually at the front.
6. Disconnect wire harness and set switches aside.
7. On front doors remove trim behind mirrors, there may be a screw there.
8. DO NOT pull door pad off slide it up and off. If it does not slide up and off slide it up higher. If you pull it off it will break the mounting bracket(s) they are not replaceable.
9. Remove the four screws from the speaker, disconnect harness and set aside.
10. Pull the moisture barrier off or tape it out of the way so you can do your audible inspection.
11. Continue to next post if a visual inspection or replacement is necessary.

 

[juan214]

Disconnecting Door Glass from window regulator Expedition / F-150:

Writing this from memory...

1. Reconnect the window switch to the harness on the door.
2. Be sure not to close the door while the switches are hanging on the door.
3. Lower window about 1/3 down there are two access points for the bolts holding the glass
4. Remove both bolts and set aside. DO NOT push on the studs the glass can pop off and may fall.
5. Get a piece of tape preferably duct tape stick it to the outside glass frame.
6. With your hands reach in the door pop the tabs off the regulator and slide the glass up.
7. Once you have it all the way up got the outside of the door push up on the glass.
8. Take the tape and apply it to the bottom of the glass and overlapping the door trim. this will keep the glass up. If it slide down the tape will only give until glass and trim meet and that's it.
9. Continue to next post if visual inspection, removal, replacement is necessary.

 

[juan214]

Parts exploded view:

 

[juan214]

Window regulator removal Expedition / F-150:

1. Move the regulator into the position where it is at its narrowest.
2. If accessible disconnect the wire harness from the window motor
3. There should be a 1/4" blind rivet holding the regulator in place it will be need to be removed.
4. Remove the center pin / mandrel from the rivet with an automatic center punch or a hammer and punch.
5. Once the center pin / mandrel is punched through drill the rivet out.
6. Remove the two nuts holding the window regulator on and set aside..
7. Double check your glass is secured.
8. If not done so disconnect the wire harness from the window motor.
9. Wiggle the window regulator through the access hole in the door.
10. If the regulator will not come out due to its position reconnect the motor and make the adjustment needed.
11. Wiggle the window regulator through the access hole in the door.
12. Complete your visual inspection.

 

[juan214]

Window regulator visual inspection Expedition / F-150:

• If the teeth are worn, broken, or ground down on the window regulator replace it. (most likely).
• If the teeth are worn, broken, or ground down on the window motor replace it (less likely).
• If the teeth on the are worn, broken, or ground down on both the window regulator and motor replace both (very unlikely).
• If the teeth are not worn, broken, or ground down on either test the motor (Very unlikely). remove the motor by removing the 3 - 4 bolt attaching it.

 

[juan214]

Window motor internal damage bench test Expedition / F-150:

To be attempted at your own risk: Use of all and any safety procedures and equipment necessary (ie gloves, glasses etc).

Best process below

1. Put motor in a vise
2. Grab teeth with a pair of Vise Grips / locking pliers (not to tight).
3. Use a strong screwdriver position it in the vise as a stop for the pliers
4. Have a 12v power source available.
5. Connect the 12v power source with leads
6. Connect one lead to one of the motor leads
7. Tap the other motor lead to with the other 12v power lead just until it hit the screwdriver.
8. Once it hits the screwdriver connect again until it either will not move (metal gear) or makes your ratchet sound (plastic gear).
9. If there's no sound then the motor should be good
10. If there's a sound the motor needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

 

[juan214]

Reassembly:

Follow the posts in reverse.

Note: You will need to replace the blind rivet. There are two options replace with a new rivet or a 1/4 20 nut and bolt.

If the rivet will be replaced you will need a new rivet, a box of 25 is about $11



and gun.



This gun is not cheap and and can range from $130 - $410 depending on model and who get it from. There is a cheaper one available for about $30. I personally have never used one like it before. You may want to put a nut and bolt in it's place. You may also go to an auto glass shop and have them install one for you (labour and rivet only). Just put it all back together except the rivet and door pad.

This one is $30



After this part is completed finish reassembly

Good Luck

 

[sphillips]

Great info folks,

Thx!

 

[grantpa]

juan214-thanks for the in-depth breakdown and help! It's much appreciated.

 

[juan214]

NO PROBLEM I WAS A GLAZIER IN ANOTHER LIFE.