2007 Expedition No start after repairs... NEED SOME HELP

[jjamm7667]

Evening. I 'll give a brief rundown of what I did to this point. Last year my 07 expedition had a phaser go out. I had the truck towed to my house and it sat over the winter (battery drained out) and I started the repairs this summer. I replaced both cam phasers as well as the chain, guides and tensioners . I also replaced the oil pump. I replaced all common parts needed for this truck. I got everything put back together and was ready for a test start and nothing happened. My anti-theft light blinks (not rapidly) and eventually goes out but the check engine light stays on. I cant find any codes with the scanner and its acting as if I was trying to start the car in gear. I posted a video to show what happens. Ive disconnected the battery multiple time as well as trying to turn the key left and right in the door. when i turn the key I can hear a click from the passenger side inside fuse box. I have checked the anti-theft fuse as well as the starter relay.

 

[stamp11127]

First check with electrical problems is the source voltage reading.
What is the current battery voltage?
What is the battery voltage when trying to start?

 

[bobmbx]

This won't help you to get it started, but I noticed at the end of your video the engine light started flashing. Next time you try it, turn the key to "Run", and stop. In about 10 seconds or so, the engine light will start flashing. Don't do anything until it stops flashing. That flashing engine light indicates the ECM is "learning" the default values from all the sensors, which it lost when you disconnected the battery long enough for all the capacitors to bleed down, erasing all the learned values. There is also a learning procedure you should follow at first start, mainly to allow the ECM to find and adjust the fuel trims.

I agree with stamp. It sounds like you're not getting enough current flow.

 

[Adieu]

No starter or fuel pump sounds?

Not even a sputter, right?

 

[pitdexion]

If you have a second key, try it. After checking battery of course. Also try tapping starter lightly while second person tries starting.

 

[jjamm7667]

Thanks for the input. The battery checks fine. I even put a jump to it just to be sure. I monitored the voltage before and during start and it was fine. The voltage is 12.55 and doesnt drop much when turning the key. This evening Im going to jack it up and check the starter and neutral safety just to be sure. Imagine trying to start a car in gear is what Im getting.

 

[jjamm7667]

Its the starter.

 

[kenf]

Hi, Had a similar issue last winter Truck sat for weeks had intermittent starting issue. My problem was the Start relays that are in a small plastic box on top of the radiator. There is a start and Run relay and I swapped them out with the Trailer wiring and towing relays, there are right next to start relays. Once swapped no more problems as I am 8 months later all OK. I was one step away from changing out the starter.

 

[Boose]

Assuming it's in Park?

 

[Adieu]

Thanks for the input. The battery checks fine. I even put a jump to it just to be sure. I monitored the voltage before and during start and it was fine. The voltage is 12.55 and doesnt drop much when turning the key. This evening Im going to jack it up and check the starter and neutral safety just to be sure. Imagine trying to start a car in gear is what Im getting.

Voltage should be ~14

Batteries with 1 dead cell (typically measure 11.something) or significantly discharged batteries (10-12 volts) MAY operate locks and music and stuff but utterly refuse to start the engine at all

 

[762mm]

Interesting. I had a similar situation happen on my previous Ford last year (99 Explorer). It turned out it was the starter too. Just out of the blue, it just died. No symptoms, it just quit completely one day after running great for 17 years.

Btw, don't be an idiot like I was and try to crank it on and off rapidly, "just in case the relay hanged up". I blew my 50A main fuse too while doing exactly that, lol!

 

[Boose]

Voltage should be ~14

Batteries with 1 dead cell (typically measure 11.something) or significantly discharged batteries (10-12 volts) MAY operate locks and music and stuff but utterly refuse to start the engine at all

If the motor was running and the alternator spinning, yes should be near 14. 12.55 is fine for a static charge. The fact of no voltage drop is pretty indicative of no load.

 

[jjamm7667]

After I changed the starter (was missing top bolt) it fired right up. I have to say, the truck is running strong after changing the oil pump and all the timing components.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Boose]

After I changed the starter (was missing top bolt) it fired right up. I have to say, the truck is running strong after changing the oil pump and all the timing components.

Thanks for the input.

That's a gratifying job... I did it on my 05. it's really nice to hit the key and hear it idle lol.