2009 Expedition remove brake booster

[CooterExpedition]

Hi there, I have a replacement brake booster in hand, I have removed the 4 bolts that hold the booster to the firewall, but I can't disconnect the booster from the brake pedal. The retainer is round and surrounded by Pale blue plastic. It is not a clip like on older fords.
Anybody know how to disconnect it? See attached photo from under the dashboard.

 

[Bedrck47]

Copied from the 09 Ford service manual

Removal and Installation

All vehicles


Remove the air cleaner element. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12 for Intake Air Distribution and Filtering.
Remove the 2 bolts and position the degas bottle/lower air cleaner housing assembly aside.
To install, tighten bolts to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).

Relieve the vacuum in the brake booster by pressing and releasing the brake pedal a minimum of 5 times with the engine not running.
Disconnect the brake fluid level switch.
NOTE: Support the master cylinder with mechanic's wire.

Remove the 2 brake master cylinder nuts and position the master cylinder aside.
To install, tighten the nuts to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Vehicles equipped with Roll Stability Control (RSC®)


Disconnect the brake pedal travel solenoid electrical connector.
All vehicles


Disconnect the brake pedal travel sensor electrical connector.
Disconnect the manifold vacuum outlet assembly from the brake booster.
NOTICE: Do not service the brake pedal or brake booster without first removing the stoplamp switch. This switch must be removed with the brake pedal in the at-rest position. The switch plunger must be compressed for the switch to rotate in the bracket. Attempting to remove the switch when the plunger is extended (during pedal apply) will result in damage to the switch.

Remove the stoplamp switch. For additional information, refer to Section 417-01 .
Remove the brake pedal arm pin and disconnect the booster push rod from the brake pedal arm.
Remove the 4 brake booster-to-pedal bracket nuts and remove the brake booster.
To access the retaining nuts, fold back the sound insulation.
To install, tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb-ft).
NOTICE: Do not press, pull or otherwise move the brake pedal while installing the stoplamp switch. This switch must be installed with the booster push rod attached to the brake pedal and with the brake pedal in the at-rest position. Installing this switch with the brake pedal in any other position will result in incorrect adjustment and may damage the switch.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.
For vehicles equipped with Roll Stability Control (RSC®), calibrate the ABS module. Follow the directions on the scan tool for the calibration procedure.


From the manual it appears the pin is just pushed into place I would carefully pry it out

 

[CooterExpedition]

OK well the round retainer holding the booster rod isn't budging. Anybody with actual hands on experience here?

 

[stamp11127]

With such an important pin there should be some kind of clip to secure the pin. Can you get a pic of the other side of the brake pedal arm?

http://www.f150forum.com/f12/removing-brake-booster-283291/

 

[Bedrck47]

There isn't a clip The pin has barbs on it that hold t in place

Stamp I'll send you a pic from the service manual

 

[Bedrck47]

print

 

[CooterExpedition]

Will do, thanks. I'm actually back to square one because i got the wrong booster. I got the one without the electric connector for the stability control. It will take 3 or 4 days to get the proper part.
Will update this thread when I make some progress. Thank you in advance.

 

[CooterExpedition]

Well it looks like I'm going to leave the booster alone and replace the master cylinder. The symptoms that I was experiencing was pedal blowing through to the floor with minimal stopage.you ready had to stand on the brakes hard to stop the truck.
I understand that the booster only needs replacing if you loose vacuum and the pedal gets hard similar to when the engine is off. That's not my case. I think the master cylinder is just pushing fluid back to the reservoir instead of the calipers.

 

[CooterExpedition]

Has anybody removed the brake pedal retaining pin? I replaced the master cylinder with new, bled system, no leaks and the brakes are still way soft. Gotta stand on it to stop. Mush all the way through. I have a new booster but I gota move the his barbed pin.
Anyone? The picture is the reverse side of the very first picture of this thread.

 

[CooterExpedition]

With such an important pin there should be some kind of clip to secure the pin. Can you get a pic of the other side of the brake pedal arm?

http://www.f150forum.com/f12/removing-brake-booster-283291/

I took a photo today, see bottom of post, ya it's barbed, but now I need to remove it to replace the booster. I really don't want to break it.

 

[USMCBuckWild]

Can you get in there with a set of needle nose pliers to gently squeeze the metal babrs and simultaneously tap on the center of pin with a heavy punch?

 

[CooterExpedition]

Not sure, it's tough because you have to fold yourself in the foot we'll upside down with your legs up on the driver's seat of you can hang them out the door but then you get your back pressing against hard plastic edges. Now I am trying the ABS/RSC Module. I removed it, sprayed a few cans of brake cleaner into both the hydrolic part as well as the electronic solenoid part. Rinsed the rubber seals in clean brake fluid and jently put them back together and reinstalled. No success, bled a few times again, no leaks. Super soft pedal all the way til it's hard at the end. Anybody know how to trigger abs without locking them up in grass or sand? I did stay a bunch, bled again and still Mush.

 

[CooterExpedition]

So far this is the most frustrating pain in the ass issue I have ever seen. No codes. No lights. I have a spare booster but this makes no sense. I don't have a hard brake pedal. Vacuum is just fine. It's just super soft. Like there no hydrolic pressure at all. The brakes just work at the last quarter inch of travel.

 

[CooterExpedition]

This crap is killing me!

 

[1955moose]

It's possible you might have to bleed your system hooked up to an abs scanner. Anytime you disrupt the abs system, that is usually what has to be done. If you've bled master cylinder, and all four calipers from rear to front, that's probably your next move. Check with your dealer or a shop that has the scanner to be sure.



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[CooterExpedition]

Ya, I bench bled the master again, watching from the driver seat, had the reservoir filled, pumped till the looped tube was solid fluid, quickly reattached bled the line towards the front of the vehicle 1st, then the one closer to the driver. Then bled all 4 corners again. Still crap, calling dealer about abs purge tomorrow.

 

[1955moose]

You and captain dan with the same symptoms. His is a first edition but same issues. Do you have solid pedal with engine off? I didn't read that anywhere in your posts. Was the spongy pedal the reason for booster replacement. Also no abs light, lit up?


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[USMCBuckWild]

Not to insult your intelligence, but are your rear calipers mounted correctly? Others have mounted the calipers opposite of the correct manner which places the bleeders on the bottom of the caliper instead of the top.

 

[USMCBuckWild]

I had a similiar issue with my Subaru. About 30 minutes of continued assinine driving on dirt roads helped bleed the abs unit altogether.

Albeit that isn't really the best solution, but it may assist in diagnosis and help relieve some of your tension.

 

[1955moose]

That's what I asked Dan. It's easy to do. I mean who looks at bleeders! You throw them on, and bolt them down. ******, make sure your bleeders are facing up, on all 4. I've done it myself years back.


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