2010 Expedition XLT EL. Engine Rough on Idle, Stop Light. Power Loss

[nooruls143]

Hi,
I have a 2010 XLT EL Expedition with 318000 KM on it (Middle East). My expedition is experiencing the loss of power while accelerating and severely jerks/shakes while at a stop sign in the drive mode. While reversing, the brakes don't work properly and I have to press to the full to stop the car. The "Check Engine" light is on. I took to the mechanic, and he said it is throwing up lots of error codes. He checked the air filter, throttle body, replaced the ignition coil and the spark plugs were changed recently. He concluded that the engine has an issue and advising me to replace it with another from a scrap dealer instead of repairing it as he says it will cost the same. I would like to have an advice if this is the right thing to do or the engine issues can be repaired with the less cost. The car smoothes out when accelerating, but there is loss of power.

 

[Yupster Dog]

I can not see the vehicle, I don't know what codes it threw

But I will tell you when it throws a lot of codes from different systems at once
It could be just be a ground wire with bad connection.
You read that right, it could just be a loose wire.

A mechanic that says change the engine and can't diagnose what the problem was,
Is only diagnosing how much they can pull out of your wallet.

Going to the dealership for diagnosis is way cheaper than a new engine.

 

[wk99]

Throw some fuel injector cleaner in your tank. I was getting misfire codes and it cleared it up. You have more miles on yours than mine. I have 178k but it does my heart good to know that I can run it much longer. The jerking/hesitation could be the torque converter or transmission though. Might not be the engine at all. Keep researching and you might learn that you will figure things out faster than the mechanic. Best of luck.

 

[Motorcity muscle]

Load test the battery.

 

[Trainmaster]

Find a better mechanic. Yupster is 100% right on this. Diagnostics shouldn't include changing the engine.

 

[JackieFran]

Not everyone has the ability to properly diagnose these engines. It does sound like you need a better mechanic, one that is good at using a professional scan tool and can do a relative compression and power balance tests. This guy is awesome, I watched a lot of his videos, here is an example of power balance testing: https://youtu.be/zhvrzugrJas?si=StzO5pr9wGUjDkhg&t=145

I just went through all that and it took some time to solve. My engine ran perfectly until BAM, misfire on cyl 7 from code reader). Careful diagnosis with the Torque app helped but a pro quality scan tool would have nailed it down quickly. My engine didn't have any weird mechanical noises so I knew it was worth the trouble.

Here's what I found:
Cyl 8 bad coil pack (replaced),
Cyl 7 injector badly clogged (replaced),
Cyl 6, 7 bad spark plugs (replaced 5-8)
Cyl 1 lock tab on injector was broken (intermittent firing of injector),
Collapsed Vacuum line (replaced)

It ran terribly until I fixed all the issues. Now it is back to running great.

If your mechanic can't provide the codes (better yet, get them yourself) then he is wasting your time.

I hope this helps.

 

[2010-2014-only]

I had pretty much the identical problem, OP, a few years ago and the shop could not dx it. My son raised my hood, listened to the running engine and said, "You have a vacuum leak, can't you hear it?" I couldn't, but I took it to a better shop and my son was right -- vac hose had deteriorated. A new hose and the engine was running like new again.