09 3v power loss "cured" with 5w40

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max78

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Update:

Truck died, dash lit up light a Christmas tree, No connection to anything.

Found an issue with the transmission plug. . . This might have been causing some issues. . . . All of the insulation is flaking away like someone sprayed it with something that cause the insulation to become brittle. I only ever use electrical cleaners on and around wires so I hope it wasn't that. . .

Now I need to find someone who has another one on hand.

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JimR_TN

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Interesting, could it be all the Arizona heat cycles and dry air destroying the plastic in the connector like that?
 
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max78

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Think it was something I sprayed on it to clean it. Maybe I grabbed the wrong can of cleaner when I did the bulkhead sleve, I don't know.

I tore out the harness and repaired it and now its back up and running. Liquid tape, heartshrink solder splices. Replaced a blown fuse and it works. Found that I have some pretty severe resistance on the front wheels when its in the air, need to look into that a little more.

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max78

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Just another update. I might have found my low power culprit. . . . . . .

For starters here is what I did so far.

I inspected the cats because I though maybe one was loose and plugging occasionally. I inspected it with the borescope and it looked not broken but not sure if its plugged. Went ahead and pulled it and it looked better and I washed them out anyways.

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max78

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After that I went to every wheel and rotated the tires, I found that the driver rear was dragging pretty good. great, that's why it started pulling to the left right?? I went ahead and pulled it apart and rebuilt it because I had purchased the stuff to do that a while ago. Turns out I only have front pistons so I had to polish the old cylinder. . . .


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Doing all that work made absolutely no difference. . . .

I went ahead and ordered a USB cable for Forscan and decided to run the ABS module bleed command front the computer based Forscan so I could get a proper bleed on the whole system. I decided to do this because I was getting very little fluid out of the rear brake bleeder.

After running the bleed command the ABS would drain, and pump up 3 times. The brakes felt AMAZING! After that I went around and rebled all of the brakes. No change in the amount of fluid flow, and no air came out of the system. I then took it for a test drive and immediately hear brakes dragging BAD. . . . ok, so I drove around and pumped the brakes and it made it worse and they slowly released after a stop, but seemed like they were sticking pretty good. All the while I'm driving it feels like its got 10K trailer behind it. Clearly there is an issue with the brakes. Every time I make a left turn I can hear brakes dragging bad, turn right and it goes away completely. Sounds like I have a rotor not seated properly maybe?

I remember a while ago I had the rotors not fully seating due to the inner diameter on the rotor being to small causing the rotor to not sit fully against the wheel hub. I thought I had fixed this issue buy grinding the inner diameter but maybe not enough. I don't know. I do know that Discount recently fixed a TPMS, rotated my tires and its been bad ever since.

Going to pick up new rotors on the way home and hope that things get better because this is driving me nuts! I also hope that its NOT the ABS module itself because those are expensive!!!!
 

JamaicaJoe

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Wrong rotors? Rubber brake lines collapsing inside acting as a check valve? I had that problem...
 
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Wrong rotors? Rubber brake lines collapsing inside acting as a check valve? I had that problem...
Rotors fit, just one was slightly too tight on the hub, I fixed that by grinding it but it’s still tight. All rubber brake lines were replaced about 2 years ago with all motorcraft lines. Master cylinder is also new motorcraft. I found the culprit.


You did not mention the parking brakes. Did you remove the rotors and check them?

Parking brakes were replaced when I did the last brake job. Inspected them this go around and they are good and not dragging.



I found the culprit I’m pretty sure… the passenger side both front and rear were stiff and the slide pins did not slide easily at all. Adding to that one of the front calipers had a hole in the boot that allowed stuff in there causing it to stick.


Torn boot. It had some milky fluid in there along with some sludge.
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Left set is drivers side, right is passenger side.
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I used the white grease that came with the raybestos pads on the passenger, then ran out and used the purple prematex on the driver side. Taking them apart the ones with the white grease included with the brakes were stiff and extremely difficult to move, the side greased with the permatex purple was still butter smooth.

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The inside of the driver side rear rotor was extremely worn out compared to the outside and was the worst one of all of them.
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I really hate that I had to use parts store stuff, but a set of Duralast rotors and brake best semi-metallic pads made a world of difference! Gone is the semi-squishy pedal! It’s rock hard and stops a million times better! The Duralast rotor also fit the wheel hubs way better and tightened right down with no issue. My original rotors came with the truck and I had them turned and reused them. But because I needed them the day of this time it cost me $500…. If I had time to order them I would have went with a really nice kit for the same price but oh well.


Also power is better. Up top it’s great, but in the lower rpm’s it still seems lacking. It also has its moments of sluggishness. I’m data logging a bunch of parameters and will post back if I don’d anyone of interest.

Edit.

I deep cleaned the MAF as well as the throttle body. Installed a new set of motorcraft plugs (the old NGKs seemed OK and were only at .047). then I used Forscan to reset all adaptive tables. After all of that it now drives way better then it did. There seems to still be some pulsing and issues here and there but that could be from my trans. I did some datalogging so I will have to look into it.
 
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