2011 Random Stall while driving - Update: FIXED w canister purge valve.

[Habbibie]

Doesn't matter what we tell him, obviously he is not even remotely interested in diagnosing the problem himself, he's taking it to the dealer.

END OF THREAD//

Ps. For all members if you're gonna ask for help diagnosing or troubleshooting a problem when in the end you're not going to even ATTEMPT the slightest effort in to making a repair yourself and all along you're planning to take it to the dealer or repair shop anyways then DON'T EVEN ASK!

 

[Habbibie]

Melting can cause the contacts between the fuse block and the fuse to have intermittent connection based on expanding and contracting from heat or the fuse holder contacts could be loose. Doubtful in either case, but something to check non the less.

Explain to me where did you get your logic from? Fuses dont expand and contract, they're built and designed to withstand a certain amount of amperage, and more amperage will BLOW the fuse not expand it, also if you pull that fuse you should be able to clearly tell its holder has been arcing and the contacts are burned up but even then if you have a loose connection then Please explain to me how a damn piece of plastic expands and contracts and when the car stalls due to the poor or lost connection how the hell does it reconnect when the truck doesn't move causing any vibration to maybe knock the loose connection back into place???

 

[hawkman71]

Doesn't matter what we tell him, obviously he is not even remotely interested in diagnosing the problem himself, he's taking it to the dealer. END OF THREAD// Ps. For all members if you're gonna ask for help diagnosing or troubleshooting a problem when in the end you're not going to even ATTEMPT the slightest effort in to making a repair yourself and all along you're planning to take it to the dealer or repair shop anyways then DON'T EVEN ASK!

Whoa up, Habbibie! This is the first time I've relied on a dealer/shop for anything. Normally, I do all the work myself. In this case, the dealer was responsible for it and I was under a short timeframe to get it resolved. The dealer was being an ass and pretending to not be able to do anything. I was going to do something myself if I couldn't get it done. I'm under a lot of pressure this week and was looking for some help.

There were many ways to go with this, weren't there? You're off on a tangent arguing about fuses and then take me to task because I'm not getting my hands greasy?

I came here tonight to share my success story with you. See the next post.

 

[coolzzy]

It happens ask F150 owners. Ford designed the fuse for the fuel pump to small it's the same amps as the relocation kit but is no longer a micro fuse. The amps heat up the smaller surface area fuse and melt the plastic around the contacts in the fuse panel. It won't necessarily blow the fuse but the melting softening plastic can cause a disconnect with the fuse itself when it gets hot. See below for your reference


https://goo.gl/images/V4WCEg

 

[hawkman71]

The dealership I bought it from was not living up to their word. Yesterday, they finally put some effort in it and put a new throttle body on it b/c someone told them that's what it might be. They called me up. I went in. It started roughly. Stalled within a mile of the dealership. Came back and they said it must be the gas and as far as they were concerned there was nothing wrong with it.

I took it to a Ford dealership where I happen to know the owner. He had his guy run the computer on it. I paid him for it. Then I went and found a canister purge valve at another Ford dealership, put it on, and it seems to run great now.

So, I APOLOGIZE, Mr Habbibie, for trying to let someone else live up to their word. I was fighting much more experienced people than myself and I'm relatively new to the Expedition.

I really do thank every one of you for your help in this matter, everyone's suggestions. It still MIGHT NOT be completely fixed, but then I just ask that you pray for me and my family as we head off on a journey where I'd rather it not stall on my family in heavy traffic, limited pull-over areas, in front of trucks, in tunnels, etc.

 

[coolzzy]

Here is where the 20amp fuse is relocates to notice the larger size in the new location. This plagues all F150s and the expedition uses the same setup. It's more prevalent in the pickups cause there are many more of them on the road due to far higher production numbers. I'm not saying this is the cause of the problem but is simple to check with a flashlight under the hood

https://goo.gl/images/f2fLDB

 

[Cookieman00x]

Explain to me where did you get your logic from? Fuses dont expand and contract, they're built and designed to withstand a certain amount of amperage, and more amperage will BLOW the fuse not expand it, also if you pull that fuse you should be able to clearly tell its holder has been arcing and the contacts are burned up but even then if you have a loose connection then Please explain to me how a damn piece of plastic expands and contracts and when the car stalls due to the poor or lost connection how the hell does it reconnect when the truck doesn't move causing any vibration to maybe knock the loose connection back into place???

I was saying the block contacts could have expanded and contracted if it were in the process of melting, shifting the physical orientation.

Someone needs to switch to decaff

 

[Supeman]

I had a similar problem on my 03 there is a fuseable link coming from the battery follow it away from the battery it will go in 2 different directions one going to the alternator i think and the other going back towards the passenger fender this is the wire to look at mine was rubbing against the a/c line exposing the metal i wrapped the ac line in foam and covered the foam in tape i did this to every spot this wire I thought would touch and so far knock on wood I haven’t had the problem again this has been almost a year and have put maybe 6,000 miles on it since then hopefully this is your problem and it fixes it too if not your problem hope you figure it out

 

[hawkman71]

So far, so good.

My last update described the diagnosis and replacement of the canister purge valve. Since then, we've travelled over 1000 miles to Canada and are so far enjoying an Expedition that starts every time, doesn't falter, and seems to just run smoother. Pretty happy with this situation.

Funny how, the other problems seem to be more pronounced when one thing is fixed. I'm thinking of the bad, bouncy, suspension. Some replacement struts are on the to-do list.

Yes, I do that work myself. Love those spring compressors.

Thanks.

 

[edulun]

Great information Hawkman, looks like this is a comon issue on the 4.6L and 5.4L Engines found in F150's, Expeditions and Navigators from 2009 to 2014.

Here's a link form FordTechMakuloco, he expalins it best:

 

[hawkman71]

Thanks, edulun for that video.

btw, months later and it's still running like a champ.

 

[Michael McC]

So far, so good.

My last update described the diagnosis and replacement of the canister purge valve. Since then, we've travelled over 1000 miles to Canada and are so far enjoying an Expedition that starts every time, doesn't falter, and seems to just run smoother. Pretty happy with this situation.

Funny how, the other problems seem to be more pronounced when one thing is fixed. I'm thinking of the bad, bouncy, suspension. Some replacement struts are on the to-do list.

Yes, I do that work myself. Love those spring compressors.

Thanks.

Re: shocks, I recommend Bilstien. They should make them for your model year. They were stock on my last Expedition, a 2003 FX4. Glad your prayers were answered. Thanks for posting your experience.