2016 Strange dash display problems just started

[Frank700]

Hello, My 2016 has been a great vehicle. 111k and very little problems. Only HVAC blower and a rear hub bearing. Yesterday Cross traffic alert fault popped up on dash. Then this morning it reappeared. Then this afternoon the left side of the dash went blank. Then the whole left side was blinking. Then it went back to normal. Wife said at one point it felt like it lost power briefly. Maybe the transmission. She couldn't tell. Then everything was normal. No Cross traffic fault alert this afternoon. No check engine lights. Anyone have anything like this happen? Not sure where to start with this. Thank you!

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

Hello, My 2016 has been a great vehicle. 111k and very little problems. Only HVAC blower and a rear hub bearing. Yesterday Cross traffic alert fault popped up on dash. Then this morning it reappeared. Then this afternoon the left side of the dash went blank. Then the whole left side was blinking. Then it went back to normal. Wife said at one point it felt like it lost power briefly. Maybe the transmission. She couldn't tell. Then everything was normal. No Cross traffic fault alert this afternoon. No check engine lights. Anyone have anything like this happen? Not sure where to start with this. Thank you!

From afar - I’m betting on a defective battery and/or loose or corroded battery terminal connectors

Look under the red vinyl positive cable connector - a very common place for corrosion.

 

[GlennSullivan]

Totally agree with post #2 above. Disconnect, inspect and clean battery terminals. Test / replace disconnected battery. Reconnect terminals a minimum of 10 minutes later.

 

[Frank700]

I will check the connection and load test the battery. I put a new battery in it 3 months ago for regular maintenance. Thanks

 

[Frank700]

Cleaned cables. No corrosion but still wire brushed everything. Took it for a drive. Let it idle for a while. Took it for another short drive. Let it idle for 10 minutes. Ready to go to the store. Put it in reverse and hear a clunk. Shift to drive. Cross traffic alert fault comes next. Push the gas and it feels like its in a high gear. Doesn't want to move easily. Pull it back in garage. Wrench light comes on. Turn it off. Won't restart. Then it restarts. Check engine light now. Codes P0706 P0707 are now showing. Glad I didn't get struck on the side of the road...

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

Cleaned cables. No corrosion but still wire brushed everything. Took it for a drive. Let it idle for a while. Took it for another short drive. Let it idle for 10 minutes. Ready to go to the store. Put it in reverse and hear a clunk. Shift to drive. Cross traffic alert fault comes next. Push the gas and it feels like its in a high gear. Doesn't want to move easily. Pull it back in garage. Wrench light comes on. Turn it off. Won't restart. Then it restarts. Check engine light now. Codes P0706 P0707 are now showing. Glad I didn't get struck on the side of the road...

I’m sorry the fix wasn’t something simple - best wishes on the repair. Please let us know what you determine.

 

[Ervinc]

Those codes point to the range selector / neutral safety switch for the transmission.

 

[Frank700]

Correct. I'm going to replace the lead frame.

 

[GlennSullivan]

Sorry the "easy fix" did not work out for you.

 

[DieselMonk]

From afar - I’m betting on a defective battery and/or loose or corroded battery terminal connectors

Look under the red vinyl positive cable connector - a very common place for corrosion.

100% and then some. Wired issues check the positive and negative terminals and clean the terminals and battery posts. Also make sure the batter is fully charged or replace if it is old.
I actually ruined 2 wheel speed sensors (first one failed and a week later the other one failed and Xmas tree came on, had wired other sensor issues and then I ended up stranded somewhere because the car didn’t start) all because of a bad battery.
On my old truck the gas mileage went south, start stop didn’t work no more, battery wouldn’t charge much even I had driven it 300 miles, some other issues with the sync3 system etc… again… all because of a bad battery.

 

[GlennSullivan]

100% and then some. Wired issues check the positive and negative terminals and clean the terminals and battery posts. Also make sure the batter is fully charged or replace if it is old.
I actually ruined 2 wheel speed sensors (first one failed and a week later the other one failed and Xmas tree came on, had wired other sensor issues and then I ended up stranded somewhere because the car didn’t start) all because of a bad battery.
On my old truck the gas mileage went south, start stop didn’t work no more, battery wouldn’t charge much even I had driven it 300 miles, some other issues with the sync3 system etc… again… all because of a bad battery.

Read posts #4 - #7 OP has done all of these suggestions

 

[Frank700]

I tested 3 month old battery 12.6 volts 99% on the CCA load. Alternator tested 14.8 volts. Terminals are not corroded. Picking up lead frame tomorrow and will be dropping the transmission pan. Will let you know.

 

[Frank700]

Lead frame replacement done. Hard to believe how that can cause so many problems. Runs like new again.

 

[GlennSullivan]

Lead Frane In Trans? You have part number in case I head down that road with my 17

 

[Frank700]

Sorry I threw the box away. I found out this is a very common problem. The part is in stock now. But was on back order for a long time being it was sold out everywhere.