2017 - Bilstein 5100 all 4 wheels - Lessons learned

[prenticect]

So I know there are a few threads on these shocks and I am still installing them at this exact point in time. But I wanted to share things I learned, especially for anyone with the rear self-level shocks. (Yes Bilstein says this is not a direct replacement, I apparently missed those words initially).

The fronts not bad at all, don't be afraid to use the 3lb hammer on the tie-rod. The 1lb does more damage than moving. Most to all the videos on the front are a little off as I do not have 4x4, so don't deal with the axle, but you still need to disconnect from 3 points. This is only due to the fact that Ford pressed the bolts into the shock. Putting in the new one SUPER easy as did not need the extra ~3" for the bolt sticking out.

The rears, with the shock I have (FYI in my opinion the self-load-level whatever are crap, they never worked...ever). So you basically need to buy a complete NEW shock assembly to replace the shock itself. Now, here is the trick. You can only get the Ford Shock as it bottom spring bracket is removable. Many others are welded to the shock. If you look to get a non-ford one and match the diameter, it is possible it is not wide enough for the shock. Another post pointed out that order the one from BIlsein it is not right for this truck. THe part number for the factory shock is AL1Z-18125-C. FYI, this shock is $100 a piece. Now that you have the bottom, time for the top. Guess what, the whole top part will not fit either, so now you see to get another whole shock to get the top parts (top bracket and rubber support). You have two choices, but the parts from ford, Ford does not sell a fully loaded shock like this; you have to part it all out. I did the math and it is cheaper to buy aftermarket shocks to get the top brack, rubber and spring itself. I do not 100% know if the spring would have worked, I just got tired of shopping. If you have time to shop this all out you will do better than me, I had to deal with what was in stock where ever it was.. My truck was jacked up and everything torn apart. Lesson learned, read this if you are swapping those types of shocks. You need to replace everything. IF if all that cost is worthwhile for you.

I did these shocks to get the lift cheaply (yes I know the joke there). I raised the snap ring to the highest point. I will post a before and after pic once I am completed, hopefully tomorrow.

I hope this helps some... any questions, please ask I can give all kinds of detail more if needed.

 

[Yupster Dog]

So you basically need to buy a complete NEW shock assembly to replace the shock itself.

Strut, the assembly is called a strut.
Difference between shock and strut,
If you remove shock, you can still drive the vehicle.
If you remove strut, vehicle not moving.

I had to deal with what was in stock where ever it was.. My truck was jacked up and everything torn apart. Lesson learned, read this if you are swapping those types of shocks. You need to replace everything. IF if all that cost is worthwhile for you.

Many threads on this here where they also have found out what a pain it is to disassemble and reassemble (not including dangerous compressing springs)and people who thru out OEM parts when they shouldn't have. You need to ask yourself what is your time worth? Even the DIY'ers on here have said this is one piece to buy whole and be done with it.

Put "strut" in the search box top right of this page to see all what everyone else has tried.

 

[prenticect]

Interesting point on that. I bought a shock. I knew I would be doing the whole swap out process. But when looking for parts for the rear shock\struct\fully-loaded shock became very confusing . The parts places do nto play nice here. If you search for sturt, you do not get any rear components Thus this "new" term, fully loaded shock. That gave me the parts I was looking for (what you woudl call a struct). Plus for my specific truck so many say nothing found, but present a whole of shocks\struct that do not fit.

I did look around here, but like anything with internet searching it depends on how you ask the question. So far, the disassembly\reassembly has been the easiest part of this process. Maybe because after the 3rd\4th time you got it down well

 

[Roast4570]

Granted I used bilstein 4600’s on mine but once I did the first one I found swapping the shock absorber out and keeping the stock coil springs wasn’t that horrible. A little time consuming and requires pretty close attention compressing the springs but it’s wasn’t all that bad. Not sure if 5100’s make it worse for people, maybe that is the difference.

 

[mactlc]

I put 5100 on mine and I found compressing the springs was easier when I used an impact wrench to compress the springs. The install of both rears was about 5 hours. I have not changed the fronts yet since they have not gone bad. I had three sets in the rear shocks blowout but the 5100 have been on for 4 years now without any issues.

 

[smahaffy]

I went with the Rough Country struts. Love them.

 

[tblentrprz]

INFO - How do you remove the factory spring seat/perch from the original shock to install on the 5100? I read where someone recommended cutting off the shock base since the shock is under pressure.

The cap on the top of the shock just pops off. It does not appear to provide any function other that holding the seat on the shock during production.

 

[ExplorerTom]

Many threads on this here where they also have found out what a pain it is to disassemble and reassemble (not including dangerous compressing springs)and people who thru out OEM parts when they shouldn't have. You need to ask yourself what is your time worth? Even the DIY'ers on here have said this is one piece to buy whole and be done with it.

Good luck buying a fully assembled Bilstein 5100 with the spring seat adjusted to where you want it.

And compressing the spring is really not as “life and death” as some people make it out to be. I’ve done struts on about a dozen vehicles as a DIYer. Some I’ve used a compressor and some there isn’t much spring pressure and you can just hit it with the impact. On those, if you do it right, when it pops, the strut goes SHOOTING across the garage floor all of about 6-10 inches. Make sure to be wearing your clutching pearls when you do those!