2017 Eco 6, just turned 100k. Time for plugs??

[TobyU]

For better ventilation and longer service life of all parts (especially important for plastic parts), keep the stupid beauty cover OFF!

All the police interceptor vehicles I've seen / driven come stock with a "beauty cover delete". The Charger Enforcer (5.7 Hemi V8) even has the hood insulation deleted too!

We have done this for years and all of our Town Cars. The stupid beauty cover goes in the trunk by the spare tire first thing. People on the Lincoln forum get all up in arms about the little bracket on top of the alternator and worrying about it fitting properly. We don't bother to install those either. Just slows down replacing the alternator. Two bolts.. pop the belt off and pull the pigtail out and undo the power lead 10 mm and the alternator is off. It's like a 3 minute process.
All the crap on top of the engine does is keep heat in there.

 

[aagitch]

For better ventilation and longer service life of all parts (especially important for plastic parts), keep the stupid beauty cover OFF!

All the police interceptor vehicles I've seen / driven come stock with a "beauty cover delete". The Charger Enforcer (5.7 Hemi V8) even has the hood insulation deleted too!

With the cover off, what about that little insulation/noise reduction cover piece on the driver's side top rear of motor? Will it still sit in place and not blow off etc.. ? I think it covers the direct injection pump? Still learning these ecoboost engines. thanks

 

[762mm]

With the cover off, what about that little insulation/noise reduction cover piece on the driver's side top rear of motor? Will it still sit in place and not blow off etc.. ? I think it covers the direct injection pump? Still learning these ecoboost engines. thanks

I don't have an Ecoboost in my Expy (not fond of turbos), but there is a difference between the beauty cover on top of modern engines and heat shields. A heat shield should be bolted or attached independently of the beauty cover to whatever component it is protecting. If it's not (doubtful), I'd rig a way for the heat shield to remain in place with the top beauty cover off.

Heat is what destroys engines, transmissions, starters, alternators and a plethora of other components. The less excess heat you keep in the engine bay, the longer stuff will last. The only heat you need in there is the engine being at operating temperature, nothing more.

On another note, I once saw a guy broken down at the side of the road with a Kia minivan, maybe 10 years ago. I went to see if he needed help and when he opened the hood of his Korean minivan, the entire engine bay was literally one giant beauty cover. You literally couldn't access or see anything beyond the massive grey plastic with the "KIA" logo!

I called a tow truck for the guy and wished him good luck... What a sad joke of modern "engineering".

 

[jeff kushner]

That kia sounds like the old Northstar engine....may as well have a Keep Out sign!



Wow, I changed mine just before Christmas at 85K and they looked perfect.....for 85K

Maybe a little patience is in order for your guys breaking crap<lol>?

You are pre-spraying right?

Once you understand how they are assembled, they (COPs) come right off! There is a round flat seal under the actual coil that mates with your engine creating a nice vac seal, once you break that seal, it makes them nice and easy to get off....otherwise, you will break crap. Force is only needed to pry up a tiny bit under each coil to get a little driver under the lip....then butter.

I use Mobil 1 0-40 in both my SC car and my TC truck......look at my plugs, see a problem?
Of course not......just sayin.....

jeff

 

[mquick5]

@762mm

In 2005 I purchased a Kia mini van. When I opened the hood the salesman said "would look at the size of that engine!" I lol and replied you cant even see it! We only had it for a yr or so, and traded it in on a Suburban. We needed one more seat, the minivan was 7 passenger.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[762mm]

That kia sounds like the old Northstar engine....may as well have a Keep Out sign!



Wow, I changed mine just before Christmas at 85K and they looked perfect.....for 85K

Maybe a little patience is in order for your guys breaking crap<lol>?

You are pre-spraying right?

Once you understand how they are assembled, they (COPs) come right off! There is a round flat seal under the actual coil that mates with your engine creating a nice vac seal, once you break that seal, it makes them nice and easy to get off....otherwise, you will break crap. Force is only needed to pry up a tiny bit under each coil to get a little driver under the lip....then butter.

I believe the coil boot seal you describe is also present on the V8, as I could see something similar when I did mine (rubber O-ring molded into the boot which mates with the engine head).

Funny how that SOB still manages to let sand, dust and even small pebbles through, which is why blowing each hole out with compressed air is a necessity before spark plug removal!


My trick was to get the coil & injectors plugs out of the way, then twist the coil right and left to break the seal. Once they start twisting freely, you can lift them straight up. I haven't had a problem with a single one, despite the 132k miles on them.


Here's what I mean:

 

[762mm]

@762mm

In 2005 I purchased a Kia mini van. When I opened the hood the salesman said "would look at the size of that engine!" I lol and replied you cant even see it! We only had it for a yr or so, and traded it in on a Suburban. We needed one more seat, the minivan was 7 passenger.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Good call on a Suburban vs Kia.

Besides Toyota trucks (which I've never owned thus far), I'm not very fond of Asian or Euro vehicles myself. I'd much rather support our North American manufacturers who have comparable quality if not better, with the exception of Fiat-Chrysler.

 

[jeff kushner]

The rubber under the COP is tight to the bottom and around 2" in dia....shaped like what you are pointing to, just a lot bigger and much higher up....like this. The 1st pic is aftermarket & 2nd pic is Motorcraft...I understand and feel for you guys who wrestled with these but try to remember that most parts will release if done the way they need to be removed, our job is to find that out when we see the "old way" isn't getting it done. The seal these nice soft rubber parts can make to your engine over time, is not to be underestimated as some have found.

To release, either slip a thin blade 3/4" between top thin plastic plate and the top of the seal, then pry/press down on the seal to make the seal let go or go under the seal itself...I just didn't want to damage them.

 

[TobyU]

It is amazing how these things have multiple rubber wiping style seals and they do still get tons of debris down in there.
It has surprised me since the first 4.6 is came out with the long spark plug wires.

 

[TC16XLT]

Do you have the part numbers for the clips? The clips were very brittle and fragile, and seemed like a cheap-design.

When I did my spark plugs, I also replaced the boots at the end of the coil packs (and used dielectric grease on the boots, as well as the seal at the top of the coil packs - which were stuck to the engine and were very difficult to remove.

Thank you.

Sorry, was on vacation and didn’t look at my phone much. Motorcraft part WPT 931.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[07navi]

Change Sooner! 100K is WAY too long on this motor!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

agreed