General response:
My bad that I didn't think of posting pictures all along when I should have. That would have helped a ton.
So a couple of clarifications on a complication I had.
1) I never actually realized until recently when I posted my update that the Expy was only hitting it by an inch or two and not more. Had I known, I wouldn't have gone through all that trouble.
2) I eventually did figure out the track travel adjustment.
3) Most importantly, like I have explained in my OP and later, the construction of that garage door and garage space is a little quirky, in that there is low headroom available on the wall above the inside of the garage door. The garage door technician who had come in explained that to me and said that is why they had to go with a dual track system which takes more space and ends up keeping the opened garage door hanging below the brick and mortar opening/ clearance. This is the most important point to note. It is simply not possible to gain all the clearance that the brick and mortar opening allows even if the track travel time is fully adjusted and the garage door opened all the way up. It will ALWAYS hang below the top of the clearance. That was the biggest hindrance.
4) Another minor problem is that the garage door floor is raised a little to help avoid flooding, so when the tires hit the stepped-up floor cars usually bounce up a little, thus making it more likely to hit the garage door trims.
5) Funny enough, it only hits the horizontal trim and not the garage door itself. The technician had suggested I remove that one trim but said it would impact the stability of the garage door in the long run so I decided against removing that darn trim.
Long story short - it was a lot of learning experience that I gained. I just wanted to let y'all know.
Worst part is that I haven't solely tried to park the truck back into the garage since the last few track travel adjustments, though I know how much further clearance I have gained and that it will not hit the roof rack anymore even though missing it by an quarter of an inch or so, so I will post about it as soon as I get a chance. Hopefully I can include some pictures too for y'all information and whoever reads the thread in future.
But the thing is, you should be able to adjust the opener on your garage door to open the door farther, no??
I think I may not have explained it best as I was typing away on my phone in a hurry. That is actually what I did eventually when I learned I could do that. More details on a complication at the top of this post.
Your garage door opener has a limit switch that needs to be moved. Super easy. Usually its on the rail and it just needs moved closer to the opener. The bottom section of your door isn't going in far enough, leaving the bottom door section hanging too low. No need to replace the door, track or anything else. 100% DIY, no need to pay anyone to do anything.
This is what you have:
This is what you want:
Limit switch styles vary by opener mfg (Craftsman, Chamberlain, Genie, etc) and type (screw, chain, etc), but here is a general pic and most often its mounted on the center opener rail and the trolly makes the contact.
Yes that is what I did eventually that I poorly described in my update post, with a quick caveat (see start of post).
The difference between those two photos is the height of track when it curves to the horizontal. You'll never get the door higher than the horizontal tracks.
The switch certainly plays a big role, but you also will have to take into account the coil spring, in particular the pulley(s) location. If you move the switch too far back, at the end of the cycle the motor will begin to pull against the spring (pulling the cables off the reel as the door bottom moves away from the 'vertical' and into the garage.
This photo is a high lift system and not what you'd normally see in a home, but you can see the distance between the wall and the spring rod is set to keep the cable vertical. In your home, the rod is very near the top of the door opening. There isn't a lot of adjustment available, but its something to keep in mind. If you pull the door in too far, the spring will always be trying to pull it back out. Luckily, the torsion on the spring is at its lowest when the door is up, so it's not a huge pull. Moving the spring/pulley farther away from the wall would help.
View attachment 25920
Exactly.
If it just takes pushing the door a little higher consider a 2x2 the right length and slip it under one (or both) door corners to get the height you need.
I parked my '07 and '17 trucks in my former garage nightly without issues. Former garage. Current "2-car" garage barely handles my little S2000 and wife's Subaru Legacy. Expedition might get under the door but I doubt the door could close again unless the bumper was pressing against the wall.
-- Chuck
You might be on to something but I didn't understand. How would slipping a 2x2 under either or both door corners help in further raising the bottom of the garage door up when the garage door is fully raised?
