2019 Max overheating when towing

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spotdog14

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Boost increases with engine load. Using a numerically lower gear reduces load on the engine, so the turbochargers will not spin as hard. Basically, it is using the gearing to reduce load on the engine, which means less air is needed from the turbochargers.

This exactly. Using the transmission gearing to keep the turbos from spooling.

In my f150 I would regularly lock out 6 and 5th gears.
 

duneslider

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Turbos spool via the exhaust gasses passing through them. So, higher RPM will cause them to spin faster and create more boost. Gear shouldn't matter so much as what the engine RPM is. I honestly haven't looked super close at the ecoboost engine but I suspect one spools at a lower RPM to bring on boost earlier and the other spools up at a higher rpm to keep the power coming. That would also explain the smooth power delivery it seems to have. Anyway, higher RPM will always create more heat and if you are running at a higher rpm and NOT moving fast enough to pass enough air across the radiators, coolers, etc then it will get hot.

I have not seem the coolant temp get hot on my expedition but the trans has gotten hotter than I would like when pulling a load and not moving fast (steep grade and under 15mph). Once I hit the dirt road and could put it in 4L the gear reduction made everything happy again and all temps went back to normal, even with the low speed.
 

Deadman

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Lower gears simply are easier to do work in, so the engine works far less. Yes it turns more rpm, but its doing the work easier because of the mechanical advantage of the lower gears. Top gears works it the hardest obviously.
 

JasonH

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Turbos spool via the exhaust gasses passing through them. So, higher RPM will cause them to spin faster and create more boost.

You forgot about throttle position. Other things being equal (grade, wind, etc.), big difference in air volume turning 4K RPM in 4th vs 4K RPM in 6th. You can flow less air at higher RPM, because the throttle will not be open as much. This is what happens when you downshift. RPM goes up, but load drops and the turbos are not driven as hard due to reduced airflow.
 

Soliyou

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A youtube video of a 2017 Econoost owner with the same problem. Turned out to be a defective radiator:
 

Artie

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A youtube video of a 2017 Econoost owner with the same problem. Turned out to be a defective radiator:
That video triggered my old panic response that I developed driving questionable cars in my 20-30’s lol. I hate the feeling of watching the gauges hoping to not breakdown. Blowing full heat in August, been there done that. We are about to purchase a trailer and I pray I don’t have any issues.
 

Grey ghost

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I just got a 180 thermostat and a tuner upgrade from 5 star because the heat in florida gees intense may give me a margin if I tow.
 

Deadman

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They run hot thermostats for Emissions, so dropping that might help a ton.
 
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2018 Expedition XLT MAX. Cruising for about 8 hours at 75-80 MPH towing 1500 lb trailer. Suddenly transmission downshifted to 5th/6th gear. Would not go into "overdrive" - 8, 9, 10.
Engine gauges showed normal temp - I didn't think to check transmission temp.

Does this mean the transmission fluid overheated. Limped home remaining 100 miles. Next day transmission seemed fine for local (non-high speed driving).

I'm thinking I should take it in and have the transmission fluid changed.
 

Artie

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2018 Expedition XLT MAX. Cruising for about 8 hours at 75-80 MPH towing 1500 lb trailer. Suddenly transmission downshifted to 5th/6th gear. Would not go into "overdrive" - 8, 9, 10.
Engine gauges showed normal temp - I didn't think to check transmission temp.

Does this mean the transmission fluid overheated. Limped home remaining 100 miles. Next day transmission seemed fine for local (non-high speed driving).

I'm thinking I should take it in and have the transmission fluid changed.
I’d take it in if it were me, that’s a really light trailer.
 

Calidad

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A friend with a Raptor and the 10spd mentioned a recent experience similar to this. He was dragging a side by side. No idea how fast he was going.

I wonder if there is some sort of programming logic affecting how the 10spd is holding or slipping gears etc?
I haven’t towed yet and likely won’t drag more than 1500lbs for the next few yrs.
 

Calidad

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A youtube video of a 2017 Econoost owner with the same problem. Turned out to be a defective radiator:
My first thought was a friends old Explorer that kept having transmission over heats. For yrs the Ford dealer said can’t find s problem. Finally some crust old guy at the dealer literally asked if anyone had checked to see if the cooler wasn’t plugged. Nope never checked. Yep bad weld in the cooling loop blocked the flow. New cooler never had an issue again.


My money is on a faulty transmission cooler. I haven’t looked are these combo radiator coolers or the old school external cooler?
 

shane_th_ee

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My first thought was a friends old Explorer that kept having transmission over heats. For yrs the Ford dealer said can’t find s problem. Finally some crust old guy at the dealer literally asked if anyone had checked to see if the cooler wasn’t plugged. Nope never checked. Yep bad weld in the cooling loop blocked the flow. New cooler never had an issue again.


My money is on a faulty transmission cooler. I haven’t looked are these combo radiator coolers or the old school external cooler?
Except in this case the transmission isn’t actually over heating and throwing an error. It just gets hotter than the OP is used to seeing on different (older) transmissions.
 

Calidad

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I do see new cars running higher temps. My 19 runs at 197-200 just doing 35mph kid hauling across town. I know 230-240 seems to be typical temps now days even with CVT transmissions. I recall 260 starting to reach into the high side tho for ATF fluids. It would be interesting to know what temps start to cause warnings and what temps cause actual problems etc.
 

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Silver-Bullet-Bus

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2018 Expy Platinum Max
475whp on 93

Mishimoto trans cooler
Mishimoto radiator

Tow 8,000# TT regularly through the Smokey mountains

240* is way too hot for both trans & ECT coolant temp. The original factory set up slipped like crazy & you could smell the discs burning. I would have had to go like 50-55 mph & you had to run boost & not rpm’s or else ECT would overheat, by running gearing. Now I can run gearing/rpm’s & not worry about overheating, which keeps the engine load down as well. Since I noticed the high load situation is what creates the trans slipping & bucking.

Your 10R80 will start slipping easily by 235* & higher. Could be simple fix like the internal thermostat control valve, which opens to allow trans fluid to circulate through the the trans mounted heat exchanger—it’s not really a cooler.

That has been known to get stuck, basically, it’s the same as having a stuck thermostat.

I know Ford wants to run these transmissions at higher temps than traditional, but I still think this is just asking for problems & shortens the life of the trans—heat still kills transmissions.

Ford runs a heat exchanger, which circulates engine coolant, through the trans mounted heat exchanger.

This means that the trans temp will never be colder than the engine coolant, so if your engine coolant get hot, like say 230 & higher, then your trans cannot be any colder than the engine coolant temp.

I removed the trans mounted heat exchanger & mounted a Mishimoto trans cooler up front of the new mishimoto radiator & run a 180* stat. Factory is 190.

Trans temps run 150s-160s flat land towing & 175-195 towing mountains, max around 215 after towing up steep grades & then immediately stuck in traffic, so no air moving through the cooler stuck in traffic, it will warm up a bit from heavy work up the mountain & then immediately cool off once you get moving again.

ECTs run low 190s up to 210 while towing up hill,
& around 215 doing WOT 1/4 mile pulls

Stinks Ford doesn’t build it right, to begin with, so I would either had to get rid of it, or fix it right. So, decided to fix it, since I’ll have it a few more years.
 
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